Need help, new to antiques

[Hunterhenderson11]

Just bought a minty smith and Wesson first model double action in 44 russian, minty bore everything that i can see works except it has "hammer push" I believe its called. Looking for some information about take down procedures in hopes of repairing it, also does anyone know it they have a first hammer click to keep the hammer off the shell in the cylinder, mine seems to want to set just shortly after moving the hammer reward but then doesnt hold it there, returns to rest on the shell, the single action as long as you dont push on the hammer works great

Bruce

 

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. Push off is almost always caused be a worn or damaged sear or hammer. I do not mess with this issue personally, mainly because one can do more damage than good if the angles are not perfect. David Chicoine's Antique Firearms Assembly & Disassembly book is very good resource for many guns and has a section on the 44 DA disassembly. If I am not mistaken, I believe that the 44 DAs I have owned in the past did not have a rebound hammer, so placing the firing pin between rounds or loading just 5 rounds was the best option.

 

[Hunterhenderson11]

Thanks for the response Glowe, I need the help!!

Bruce

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

The .44 DA 1st Model has two sears. One for the single action and one for
the double action. As mentioned, get a copy of Chicoine book (if you can).
It is currently out of print but you can find it and read it on-line.

On a side note, Why do we call them .44 S&W DA First Model? Yes, they are
the first model made but they were the Only model made. The next .44 they
made was in the Hand Ejector series.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[Hunterhenderson11]

Thanks Webb, I did find and order a copy of the book, a bit spendy but Im sure it will be good!!

Bruce

 

[Exmilcop]

OOOHHH BOY! I just had that problem with a lovely pistol like yours (see pic). I had 'er all to bits and got a new rear sear from Jack First Gun Parts and I fixed the problem. If your pistol functions correctly, a very little pull back on the hammer, maybe 1/8" and you should hear a little click. That's the half-cock and on mine, it keeps the pin clear of the cylinder and the rounds.

 

[Hunterhenderson11]

OOOHHH BOY! I just had that problem with a lovely pistol like yours (see pic). I had 'er all to bits and got a new rear sear from Jack First Gun Parts and I fixed the problem. If your pistol functions correctly, a very little pull back on the hammer, maybe 1/8" and you should hear a little click. That's the half-cock and on mine, it keeps the pin clear of the cylinder and the rounds.

Thanks for that, I figured that was supposed to keep the hammer from contacting the shell. Thanks, Ill order a rear sear and get to work

Bruce

 

[glowe]

The invention of the S&W modern collector speak was not found in McHenry & Roper Smith & Wesson Hand Guns, 1945 book. Nor was it found in John Parson's book , Smith & Wesson Revolvers, 1957. That leaves Roy Jinks to be the first reference to the 44 Double Action, 1st Model to collectors. No reason given in his 1966 book.

Originally, the company named the 44 DA as New Model No. 3 or Navy Revolver. The 1883 company poster called the revolver by that name (below). Last appearances in the early 1900s company Catalogs used the name 44 Double Action Frontier Model for all three calibers available then.

 

[mmaher94087]

Bruce, the Chicoine book will tell you how to remove the side plate correctly, so no damage occurs. This is a DYI repair.

 

[Hunterhenderson11]

Bruce, the Chicoine book will tell you how to remove the side plate correctly, so no damage occurs. This is a DYI repair.

Awesome thanks so much

 

[mmaher94087]

A few words of wisdom: If/When removing and replacing the cylinder, always hold the latch up at all times. Otherwise, the cylinder will be severely scratched by the retaining nib on the underside of the barrel latch.

When removing the grips (stocks in S&W lingo) loosen the grip screw two or three turns and lightly tap the screw head with the handle of the driver. This loosens the opposite side panel. Do not pry on the panel. Remove the screw and carefully pull the panel straight off. In addition to the grip screw, there is a blind locating pin mid-way across the bottom of the grip. If the grip is not pulled straight off the frame, there is a 100% chance of breaking a chunk off the bottom of the grip. Turn the frame over and lightly tap the inside bottom edge of the grip to loosen it from the locating pin.

Ask if you are unsure of anything.