Need picture of M&P innards

[Muley Gil]

I have an early round butt M&P, serial number 59,663, with the old rebound system. It apparently is missing a lever or something, as the trigger will not re-set. I believe this is a Model 1902, 1st change.

If some one could post a picture of the internal parts, or a revolver with the sideplate removed, and ID them for me, I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[Muley Gil]

I have an early round butt M&P, serial number 59,663, with the old rebound system. It apparently is missing a lever or something, as the trigger will not re-set. I believe this is a Model 1902, 1st change.

If some one could post a picture of the internal parts, or a revolver with the sideplate removed, and ID them for me, I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[digi-shots]

Muley, this is the best I've got... s/n 115,xxx

I believe it's an M&P 1905, 2nd change, shipped Jan. 1908

 

[Muley Gil]

That's a great picture, but mine has a different style of trigger return. It doesn't have the rebound slide (marked PAT'D FEB. 6, '06) shown.

Thanks though.

 

[handejector]

Gil,
Do you have Neal & Jinks? See the x-ray on pg 383.

 

[Guest]

Gil;

Why don't you Post a picture of what you have and we can try ti ID your problem or problems.

MAK

 

[Muley Gil]

I wish my photography was as good as digi-shots.

At rest:

hammer cocked:

Kitty Bob decided he needed in the photo as well!

 

[n4zov]

MP,

Thanks for asking your original question because the photos helped me clearly see the differences between the early and later rebound systems S&W used. Great photos from all concerned!

 

[cgt4570]

Muley,
I looked at the radiographs (x-rays) in Neal/Jinks and I can't see anything wrong. All the pics were of the other side and with the hammer at rest, though. All I can think is that either there is no upward spring tension left on the trigger return spring (the flat sping in front of the mainspring), or there may be a burr or something keeping the trigger return lever from camming the trigger back. I would carefully remove the return lever and inspect the pin it rides on, and the frame under it.
The way I do that: use a small pair of needle-nose vice grips with pieces of rubber hose or several layers of thick tape sleeved over the jaws. Compress the return spring just enough to take the tension off the lever, then lift the lever out. You can then take the plyers off and see if the spring has enough upward tension. If everything checks out ok, and you still can't figure it out, email me and I'll take the sideplate off one of my 1899s and take some pics for you. They use the same mechanics. I had a 1902, but I sold it last year. I successfully took it apart and put it back together, so there isn't much to it.
Good luck,
Chris Taylor

 

[Muley Gil]

I believe I'm missing a lever that connects between the rebound lever and the trigger. The front flat spring is pushing the rebound lever, but you can tell from the 2nd picture, there is nothing to make the trigger return to the forward position. There is no spring tension on the trigger.

I've had it apart several times.

A picture or two, especially showing the hammer at full cock and perhaps during the DA cycle, would be appreciated.

I sent you an email from my Yahoo account.

 

[mikepriwer]

Muley

Indeed, you are missing the lever. It rides inside that odd-shaped
piece that is driven by the second short flat-spring. That part is
easy to see when you have pulled the hammer back. It is the piece that
links the trigger to the odd-shaped rebounding block. It sits on the
same pivot pin, and is driven by the same flat spring. It has a little
wheel on its end, so that it can ride inside the back end of the trigger.

This missing piece is also very odd-shaped, although someone good with
a file could make one. I do have one or two that I salvaged when I
stripped-down a couple of 1899's for parts. They are not with me now,
here in San Francisco. If you can't find one within the next couple of
months, I can arrange to get one to you. I don't know that I would want to
sell it, but you could see what it is, and get someone to copy it.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[2152hq]

Here's a pic of the needed part along with the sear that you still have in the revolver. I probably have the parts arranged wrong in the pics but you get the idea. Salvaged from a badly abused and pitted gun as you can see but they're useful as patterns. If you can't locate one and would like to borrow the part(s) in question to use as a pattern, feel free to let me know.
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[mikepriwer]

Yes - that is the part that you are missing. Note the little wheel in
the end of the lever ! I've had 1899's that had lost that wheel, and the
gun still functioned. This levering lockwork is rather stiff anyway, so
missing the wheel is not a big deal. It will wear a bit faster, and have
somewhat rougher double action, but --- .

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[Pistol Toter]

WOW! That's interesting!!!!!!! Sure would be informative to take detailed pictures of all the actions and compare them.

 

[Guest]

Never let anybody tell you a Picture isn't worth a Thousand plus Words. MAK

 

[2152hq]

Mike Priwer.., I should have read your response better before posting mine. I wasn't trying to upstage your offer in any way. Sorry if it came accross that way.

 

[mikepriwer]

No problem. I don't have access to my spare parts anyway, for a month or
so, so if Muley wants to make one, he should borrow yours.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[Muley Gil]

Thanks for help. I'm going to try and find this part first, before I attempt to make one.

Now, the question is: what is the NAME of this part?

 

[mikepriwer]

Muley

I'm away from my early catalogs. If you haven't found out the name of the
part by the end of the month, send me a note and I will look it up when we
get back.

It's probably not going to make any difference what its called, as there will
not be a lot of them around. I've always referred to this action as the
levering lockwork. If any parts people know anything about early S&W's,
they will understand that terminology.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[Muley Gil]

My thanks go out to everyone who helped provide answers, especially those who popped their sideplates and took pictures.

If no one objects to me using their pictures, I may create a post for the FAQ section detailing the different internals.