New 686+ 4", jamming once about every 100 rounds

[JohnRyan]

Hello everyone,

I am a new owner of a 686+ 4", purchased one week ago Saturday. I have put almost 1,000 rounds through it over 8 trips to the range. A mix of .38sp and .357 factory ammo, federal american eagle, pnc bronze, etc.

I'm experiencing a full jam/lock about once every 100 rounds. Both .38sp and .357. Sometimes it completely jams, the hammer will not pull back, the cylinder will not rotate, and the cylinder will not open. I've always been able to get it open with some gentle cajoling, no forcing. When shooting double action not all the trigger pulls are smooth, and I feel resistance which sometimes preceeds the jam. Most of the time the resistance is not enough to prevent firing and a cycling. I would say I get a rough pull roughly 3 times out of every 100 rounds. I have not been able to attribute this behavior to any one particular cylinder.

Using all factory ammo, federal american eagle, pmc bronze, etc.

I've been thoroughly cleaning the gun after every range visit, run patches through until clean and work over the forcing cone to get all the crud off. After shooting .38sp I use a .40 brass bore brush on the cylinders and always inspect the cylinders and a bore with a light to make sure they are clean. I am using Balistol, brass brushes, tooth brushes, and patches.

I've been ejecting the spent brass with the muzzle vertical to avoid getting any crud under the ejection star during ejection. I also have a rag and brush with me to clean it at the range in case the jams are caused by small debris getting trapped underneath, but I don't think this is the case.

Today I did notice there is some play in the ejection star. Does the following video indicate a lose ejection rod? Mine will behave similar to this (note, not my video).

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3pissvC3vQ[/ame]

The new firearm only being 10 days old at this point I'm hesitant to part with it for repair, but if that is what is needed I need to face that reality. Overall I'm still really happy, but one of the reasons I chose a revolver was for the reliability and I want to make sure I have a fully functional firearm. An ignored problem like this may only get worse. I wish there was a way I could exchange it as a defective unit being that it is so new.

Is there anything else I should be aware of?

 

[bigwheelzip]

The full lockup of the 686 you describe is exactly how my 686 was returned to me from CS after warranty repair of hammer issue. I sent it right back. I suggest the next time you get that locked condition, stop and call customer service for a shipping label. Mine needed two tries but its fine now. The CS turnaround time was about two weeks. Good luck.

 

[Bahamaroot]

I would definitely call CS about the problem and talk to them about it. They may have you send it back for an immediate inspection. As you said, putting it off may only make things worse. It would be a shame for it to lock up when you need it the most!

 

[686-380]

My 686 only jammed with 158 grain Hornady XTP. I sent it back and they remedied the problem. They will likely do the same with yours. Although my ejection rod wasn't loose, yours may be. They replaced mine, as part of their repair.

 

[chief38]

That is why the older versions had two locator pins - just to prevent what is happening to yours. Looks like because they "cheaped out" once again, it has proven to cause issues. I'd call them and send it out for repair.

 

[Helderberg]

That is why the older versions had two locator pins - just to prevent what is happening to yours. Looks like because they "cheaped out" once again, it has proven to cause issues. I'd call them and send it out for repair.

Please excuse my ignorance but what do you mean concerning the "locator Pins"?
Thanks in advance, Frank.

 

[DocGlock]

Please excuse my ignorance but what do you mean concerning the "locator Pins"?
Thanks in advance, Frank.

See the pins in the attached pics.

 

[JohnRyan]

Thanks for the replies everyone. This is re-assuring that I need to have it checked out.

 

[Ashlander]

When the gun is loaded the shell casings "fix" the ejector wheel in place so it is entirely stable (the pins are unnecessary). Your cause is something else.

 

[MWC2068]

Is your strain screw tight? They some times work loose and cause light hits but it can mess up the geometry of the mainspring making the trigger hard to pull.

 

[rbert0005]

You may still be getting crud under the ejector star at the range.
Try brushing it out if you get more grief.

Recheck the ejector rod as well.

Bob

 

[OLDSTER]

play in extractor

That is why the older versions had two locator pins - just to prevent what is happening to yours. Looks like because they "cheaped out" once again, it has proven to cause issues. I'd call them and send it out for repair.

Yep ! There ya go

 

[JohnRyan]

I noticed the following while cleaning. I think this is a big clue as to what is going on. Does this mean anything to the more seasoned folks out there?

There are marks on all seven areas, but I highlighted the two that are most visible in the following photo. I have not dry fired the firearm.

 

[JohnRyan]

Got back from the shop. Shipping label emailed to me. Time to part with my new baby for a while

 

[S&W Rover]

Sending it back to the shop is a good idea and shouldn't take long. Just call S&W and they will send you a pre-paid label. S&W Customer Service has a great reputation.

The two times I've seen a problem like what you describe, with S&W revolvers that I own, there were two different and somewhat subtle problems.

In the first case, the cylinder of my Mdl 65-5 just would not turn easily, and I sent it back to S&W. They diagnosed "cylinder cramps" and cleaned the rod that goes through the cylinder (it was crudded up from powder residue).

In the second case, with a J frame, the cylinder would not rotate properly with a bunch of my own handloads. It was several high primers on rounds, just high enough to rub the recoil shield and slow the turn of the cylinder. Shame on me (I'm much more careful now to ensure that all primers are fully seated).

Your new 686 should work perfectly reliably, and sending it back to S&W for a repair won't cost you a cent. Just make sure you describe the problem fully, as you have done here. Best wishes for a quick repair and return.

 

[johns961]

I had the same problem with my 696-6 +.
I sent it in.
Got it back a week late.
Ejector rod, hand, hammer, trigger were all replaced.
Seems like they replaced everything MIM.

John

 

[JohnRyan]

Thanks folks. It's going in! I wrote up a detailed letter explaining the issue and also attached an index card with an abbreviated version and my contact info to the trigger guard with a piece of string.

I used S&W's online chat while waiting on hold on the phone. Chat was finished with the shipping label emailed before I got to a human on the line. Very quick, smooth process.

Now comes the separation anxiety.

 

[JohnRyan]

Got it back today. Sheet says:

Performed service:
Evaluate / Repair
Replace Hand
Replace Extractor

Can't wait to get back to the range and start shooting it again! Hopefully it's all fixed up now.

 

[foytfoyt]

That is why the older versions had two locator pins - just to prevent what is happening to yours. Looks like because they "cheaped out" once again, it has proven to cause issues. I'd call them and send it out for repair.

The new extractors are cut at the edges to self-align/index to the cylinder, while the old design needed the pins.

How is the old design better? Just asking. I own both, so no bias.

 

[ccjcc81]

Got it back today. Sheet says:

Performed service:
Evaluate / Repair
Replace Hand
Replace Extractor

Can't wait to get back to the range and start shooting it again! Hopefully it's all fixed up now.

Did it take all this time, or did you wait a couple of weeks before sending it in? It's been 40 days since your last post...


I ask because I sent a gun in about 8 days ago, and everyone here said it would be about a 2 or 3 week turnaround.