Just found a new set of Reddingg 38/357 dies in my shop. Don't remember getting them, but how do I tell if they are carbide? No mention in paperwork or on box. If not, how do I lube the cartridges? Almost all are nickel plated.
New dies
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ReloadforFun
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I don't have one in-hand to look at the moment, but since the carbide is an isert into the steel body of the sizing die, inspect the bottom of the sizing die to see if you can see the insert. If there is no line between the insert and the steel body, it may be a steel die.
Lube is something like spray ons from RCBS or Hornady, roll-ons usingan ink-pad sort of pad, or waxes, such as from Redding or Hornady that you apply by hand.
Lube is something like spray ons from RCBS or Hornady, roll-ons usingan ink-pad sort of pad, or waxes, such as from Redding or Hornady that you apply by hand.
Most carbide dies are also labeled somewhere on the die, but the inspection process indicated above is reliable. I find the Hornady spray to be the way to go. I also use it on cases that I will use a carbide sizer on just to lessen the mechanical effort required.
riverrat38
US Veteran
Does the lube need to be removed after sizing?
73,
Rick
73,
Rick
Ivan the Butcher
Member
Lube Removal: Most modern lubes are of a nature that as long as the lube is dry it won't contaminate the primer or powder. The spray wax lubes like Hornady "One-Shot" are dry within seconds of application.
I happen to lube, size, then clean my target/long range ammo. Most current lubes (RCBS Formuls2) is a water-based lube that will rinse off in hot water. The spray lubes rinse off with some form of rubbing. I clean with the wet pin method, so I flush my dirty water down the sink or toilet when done.
Ivan
I happen to lube, size, then clean my target/long range ammo. Most current lubes (RCBS Formuls2) is a water-based lube that will rinse off in hot water. The spray lubes rinse off with some form of rubbing. I clean with the wet pin method, so I flush my dirty water down the sink or toilet when done.
Ivan
gwpercle
Member
Look at the base of the sizing die ,look into the hole , you will see the carbide ring set into the steel . It's usually about 1/4" thick and very plain to see .
If the base is just all steel with a hole ... no ring inset ... then it's steel .
Lee Case Lube is a water soluble wax that goes on and dries and usually gets rubbed off during the reloading process ... it isn't greasy or oily or sticky ... it's dry wax film can be wiped off with a paper towel .
Not messy and easy to use ... I even use it with carbide sizers to make sizing slick and easy !
Gary
If the base is just all steel with a hole ... no ring inset ... then it's steel .
Lee Case Lube is a water soluble wax that goes on and dries and usually gets rubbed off during the reloading process ... it isn't greasy or oily or sticky ... it's dry wax film can be wiped off with a paper towel .
Not messy and easy to use ... I even use it with carbide sizers to make sizing slick and easy !
Gary
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Keep in mind that “carbide dies” is a bit of a misnomer in that only the sizing die make use of carbide, so even if it is an old die set without a carbide sizer, the other two dies are basically no different than dies you’d buy today.
There is fantastic value in old die sets if you simply ignore the old steel sizing die.
There is fantastic value in old die sets if you simply ignore the old steel sizing die.
OP
Thanks for the information. I cannot see any signs of the carbide in the die. I assume it is not carbide and I will take the set to gun show and sell it. My Lee set works just fine.
Redding themselves will tell you that their steel sizing dies will assemble more accurate ammo than conventional carbide sizing dies. They have published machine rest tests that demonstrate this. (Not sure if this is online, but I have it in their old print catalogs. Long live the printed page!)
They will tell you that the case neck and body of a “straight wall” case like the 38 special need to be sized differently.
To address the problem, they developed the dual ring carbide sizing die.
See:
https://www.redding-reloading.com/images/stories/Pressinfo12/dualringcarbidepr.pdf
The bottom line: don’t assume steel dies are inferior to carbide, or that conentional carbide dies do not represent something of a compromise.
Here’s a tell-tale sign. If your “straight wall” cartridge reloads look like a Coke bottle, your bullet diameter and concentricity have likely been altered when you seated the bullet.
They will tell you that the case neck and body of a “straight wall” case like the 38 special need to be sized differently.
To address the problem, they developed the dual ring carbide sizing die.
See:
https://www.redding-reloading.com/images/stories/Pressinfo12/dualringcarbidepr.pdf
The bottom line: don’t assume steel dies are inferior to carbide, or that conentional carbide dies do not represent something of a compromise.
Here’s a tell-tale sign. If your “straight wall” cartridge reloads look like a Coke bottle, your bullet diameter and concentricity have likely been altered when you seated the bullet.
I clean off the lube...
...just as a matter of course. I mainly use Hornady One-Shot but sometime I use an oil pad on necked cartridges to keep from getting lube on the shoulder and picking up oil dents. They don't HURT anything, they just look unsightly.
...just as a matter of course. I mainly use Hornady One-Shot but sometime I use an oil pad on necked cartridges to keep from getting lube on the shoulder and picking up oil dents. They don't HURT anything, they just look unsightly.
gwpercle
Member
My first set was steel (RCBS) because carbide were so costly ...
Then Lee came out with cheap carbide sizers . After buying and using a Lee Carbide sizer for a few years ...
I went back to my steel sizer ... The Lee carbide actually over sized the cases and I got far fewer reloadings ... the case body would develop a crack / split ... not the mouth but the body !
I shot a lot of 38 special in indoor NRA Bullseye Match ... and long case life was important ... I would sell the Lee Carbide and Keep the Redding Steel dies . Actually I would keep both ...but that's just the pack-rat in me ... I keep most everything cause you never know when you might need a Back-up or loaner !
Gary
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I use lube for rifle cartridges only. I have a tube of that Lee case lube. It is white greasy stuff, sort of like thinned down Crisco and odorless and harmless as I tend to just rub it on with my fingers for something like loading a box of 20 rifle rounds or such. So far I do not make numerous loadings of rifle carts at one time like for revolvers. Sometimes you got to put a little small dab in the case mouth for the neck plug to slide in the case easily. I believe it is just water soluble. I have not had any issues with the Lee carbide revolver sizers.
DWalt
Member
I lube cases even with using carbide dies. Makes them slide in easier. My lube is STP thinned with mineral spirits.
