After reading the posts on the plastic guide rod assemblies I decided to look into Stainless Steal replacements since I plan on keeping this weapon for a long time. Ordered and received a great looking unit from Gallaway Precision. Got the standard 17 lb. spring unit with SS end screw. Very professional built unit of course for the price it should be. Hope to make it to the range next week end to try it out. Later Guys
New Guide Rod Assy
- Thread starter Daveg01
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Plastic? Next it will be wooden dowels.
ReaperTN
Member
I have the stainless Galloway guide rod/spring in my SD40VE and it has worked perfectly. I went with the 20 lb. spring in my 40 caliber, it's hard to believe S&W puts the 17 lb. spring in both the 9mm and 40 caliber guns from the factory.
I have also been looking into purchasing a ss guiderod for my sd40ve. Any suggestions or concerns?
martybee
Member
If it ain't broke.............
Lots of these threads include comments on the VE guide rod. I decided to have a closer look at the plastic guide rod in my SD9VE CA gun.
I see that the rod itself is fully round at the rear end but changes to a cross X shape for most of it's length. I would guess that reduces friction from the spring since it only rubs on the ends of the X. (Not really an X but a cylinder with 4 flanges on it.)
I also see that the spring itself is made of flat wire, not round wire. I would guess that stabilizes the spring because for a given strength, the spring cannot move laterally with respect to the guide rod. I would be interested in knowing what form of wire is used in the steel aftermarket springs. If I were designing a spring for this application and had the capability of forming flat wire stock that would be my choice.
I couldn't determine how the plastic guide rod assembly comes apart (assuming it can be disassembled) but I did see what seems to be a 1/16inch plug in the rear end.
About force at the ends. It's clear that the front end is simply held by the hole in the slide. Now the situation at the rear end is a bit different. We know to seat the assembly correctly aligned at the rear, seated down on a ledge on the barrel. When we push the slide back in during reassembly of the gun, it seems that the rear end of the spring seats on the front end of the take down bar and transmits recoil force to that bar when the gun is fired. Since the barrel moves back a bit during recoil I would have to guess that even if the spring rear flange touches the barrel AND the take down bar when reassembled, it only touches the take down bar in a recoil or racked position. I just couldn't determine whether it touches the barrel when the slide is in the normal closed position. I tend to believe it rests only on the take down bar at all times when the slide is on the gun.
In the normal closed position it appears that the "hook shaped" section on the rear side of the barrel flange that we place the spring against, engages a slot on the rear side of the take down bar, which controls the barrel & slide assembly in the closed position. If this is the case I would guess that the take down bar takes a hit when the slide recovers after the gun is fired or the slide is manually released. The barrel doesn't move much during recoil but it does move smartly.
Further observations (or corrections) are solicited, especially from owners of metal recoil rods.
I see that the rod itself is fully round at the rear end but changes to a cross X shape for most of it's length. I would guess that reduces friction from the spring since it only rubs on the ends of the X. (Not really an X but a cylinder with 4 flanges on it.)
I also see that the spring itself is made of flat wire, not round wire. I would guess that stabilizes the spring because for a given strength, the spring cannot move laterally with respect to the guide rod. I would be interested in knowing what form of wire is used in the steel aftermarket springs. If I were designing a spring for this application and had the capability of forming flat wire stock that would be my choice.
I couldn't determine how the plastic guide rod assembly comes apart (assuming it can be disassembled) but I did see what seems to be a 1/16inch plug in the rear end.
About force at the ends. It's clear that the front end is simply held by the hole in the slide. Now the situation at the rear end is a bit different. We know to seat the assembly correctly aligned at the rear, seated down on a ledge on the barrel. When we push the slide back in during reassembly of the gun, it seems that the rear end of the spring seats on the front end of the take down bar and transmits recoil force to that bar when the gun is fired. Since the barrel moves back a bit during recoil I would have to guess that even if the spring rear flange touches the barrel AND the take down bar when reassembled, it only touches the take down bar in a recoil or racked position. I just couldn't determine whether it touches the barrel when the slide is in the normal closed position. I tend to believe it rests only on the take down bar at all times when the slide is on the gun.
In the normal closed position it appears that the "hook shaped" section on the rear side of the barrel flange that we place the spring against, engages a slot on the rear side of the take down bar, which controls the barrel & slide assembly in the closed position. If this is the case I would guess that the take down bar takes a hit when the slide recovers after the gun is fired or the slide is manually released. The barrel doesn't move much during recoil but it does move smartly.
Further observations (or corrections) are solicited, especially from owners of metal recoil rods.
Last edited:
brchambersjr
US Veteran
You are correct about the operation of the barrel and that the end of the guide rod does not touch the lug when the slide is forward. I responded to another post before reading this one.
The channels in the plastic guide rod also allow any debris that may get on the rod to have a place to go as to not interfere with the spring and cycling.
Bill
The channels in the plastic guide rod also allow any debris that may get on the rod to have a place to go as to not interfere with the spring and cycling.
Bill
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