New to forum with a revolver question

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Using a S&W 38SPL with CCI rat shot on snakes. CCI rat shot in all 5 holes, fires first round but will not revolve. Finally got cylinder to open, empty rat shot and replace with standard ammo and all 5 fire. Reloaded rat shot, fired once and same results as before, will not revolve and very hard to open and swing out cylinder. Any ideas or suggestions? I did notice the aluminum CCI flange is thicker than a standard round flange.
Thank for any help.

Auburngsp
 
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Welcome to the forum.

Likely primer set-back due to the low pressure of the rat shot loads is the problem. Check the fired cases to see if the primer has backed out of the pocket a little. If so, this will cause the primer to rub on the frame causing the problem.
 
Check the length of the CCI shotshell after the first one is fired to see if the plastic cup (that the shot is in) has moved forward in the case. This would cause the cylinder from rotating; I have experienced this problem before, but after firing standard ammo before the rat shot.
The recoil from the standard ammo caused the plastic cup to move forward in the rat shot case that was in the cylinder.
 
I use shot in my 357. I did it just this AM on a cottonmouth but have never experienced any problems with it. I usually load 3 rounds of shot and 3 of solid.
For all you snake lovers out there pease note I do not enjoy killing them and I never kill non-venomous types. They have however caused considerable vet bills and pet fatalities. They lie right in my trails and are very difficult to see. They are most assuredly not endangered here in south GA.
 
I notice the same thing in my Lightweight .37 but not the .M36. Maybe getting "bullet" jump if your gun is a light weight. I have taken pliers and given the CCI shot shells a little squeeze or crimp. It seems to work

P
 
Welcome from Texas auburngsp. Great forum for all things S&W, have fun, learn lots, share what you know.

No real experience like yours have not shot rat shot all that much in my revolvers although I have a couple of boxes.
 
I notice the same thing in my Lightweight .37 but not the .M36. Maybe getting "bullet" jump if your gun is a light weight. I have taken pliers and given the CCI shot shells a little squeeze or crimp. It seems to work

P


No need or validity in putting a decimel in front of model numbers or shotgun gauges. That is used in calibers to express the diameter in hundredth's (or thousandth's) of an inch only. Example: .30 or .300.

You may see this in the mainstream media, but only because 96.877% of journalists know zilch about guns!
 
The shot capsule is probably jumping the crimp. I have this problem when I handload .45 Colt shot capsules into Auto Rim brass. I can't fire more than one without tying up the cylinder. My problem is that Remington's Auto Rim brass is very thin and the capsule a bit undersize.

And you can't crimp the capsule too hard or it will break.

Dave Sinko
 
No need or validity in putting a decimel in front of model numbers or shotgun gauges. That is used in calibers to express the diameter in hundredth's (or thousandth's) of an inch only. Example: .30 or .300.

You may see this in the mainstream media, but only because 96.877% of journalists know zilch about guns!

I don't read news papers so I did not pick up that nasty habit from them. I did it because I wanted to. Sorry you did not like it. The fact remains, shot loads jump in my lightweights and not in my steel frames.
 

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