New to Me 586 Won't Cock

CBinNH

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I recently picked up a new looking no dash 586. Upon first examination of it I opened & closed the cylinder, cocked it, then pulled the trigger. Now the hammer stays down, firing pin sticking out. The hammer will not move now single or double action. Any thoughts appreciated.
 
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Try removing the grips and tap on the side of the grip frame with a plastic screwdriver handle or plastic hammer. See if that harmonic from the tapping frees up the action. Can you get the cylinder to open, and swing out?

If you have a properly sized screwdriver, loosen the sideplate screws a bit before you do this.

Also, I know this sounds a bit elementary as far as operation is concerned, but the hammer will not cock with the cylinder open.
 
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Thank you. The cylinder does open. I will attempt your advice tomorrow. It looks as though it sat for many years.
 
Loosen strain screw to take pressure off mainspring, tap on grip frame with plastic screwdriver handle until side plate walk up and off, look at internals, soak in Kroil, blow out, spray with Ballistol wipe off excess, close plate et voila...
 
It looks as though it sat for many years.
This. I suspect that the innards are pretty well gunked up especially if it was sprayed sown with WD40 and put up. That stuff will dry up like concrete. Happened to me with my 337. Had to bang on the cylinder with a wooden mallet to get it open it was so stuck with WD40 gunk
 
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Lots of good advice above....
1) Does the cylinder turn when opened?
2) Push the thump piece rearward. Does the hammer move freely or "cock" with the thumb piece rearward?
3) Does the trigger move with the hammer pulled to the rear?
Do not attempt disassembly if you're not comfortable or familiar with S&W disassembly:
4) Proceed to flushing the lock mechanism. This is the one instance when "brake cleaner" is recommended.
5) Flush with ATF to find it's way into all the right places.
6) Does the revolver operate and pass safety checks?

Smiles,
 
Another possibility is that the hammer nose is stuck in the firing pin bushing. I had that happen with a new 27-3 commemorative. Freed it with light taps on the hammer spur directed back away from the frame. Must have had a burr or something as it did not stick the next time.
 
Another possibility is that the hammer nose is stuck in the firing pin bushing. I had that happen with a new 27-3 commemorative. Freed it with light taps on the hammer spur directed back away from the frame. Must have had a burr or something as it did not stick the next time.

Same thing happened to me with a Model 29 that was NIB and never fired by me. One day I decided to see how the action felt and dry fired it one time. The hammer nose (firing pin) was stuck so firmly that the nose wedged tightly in the pin bushing. With the sideplate removed, I had to pry the hammer back from the bushing. After removing the hammer, I may have been able to loosen the nose by soaking the hammer assembly in penetrating oil, but instead, I removed the nose rivet. Even with the rivet removed I had a fairly difficult time getting the nose pin out. After removing and cleaning rust and gunk, I reinstalled with a new rivet. In areas where clearance is tight, when a bit of rust sets in, the part can be nearly as if it were welded.

If I had to do it over, I would first try soaking in Kroil or similar overnight then attempt to work it loose. My lesson learned was to not ignore cleaning the area and placing a bit of oil on the nose rivet/hammer area, especially on a seldom fired gun.
 
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Thank you all. I will work on it & let you know how I make out.
 
When I got home from work, I figured I would start with what sounded like the easiest & safest for a klutz like me to try. I gave the hammer a good tap with the handle of my old Estwing. It popped free. I took a pic that shows what the cause likely is. I put some Break-Free on it to soak a while & will brush it in a few hours. Thanks again for everyone's input.
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Is that a replacement cylinder? The bluing looks off compared to the rest of the gun. Wondering out loud if that might have something to do with it.
 
I believe it to be original. It is not the first blued S&W I have seen with different color tone to frame, barrel, cylinder. I thought maybe different steels take the blue differently.
 
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