Newbie question: dies..

[Model29-26.5]

I’ll hopefully be Reloading next week with the veteran reloader who will hopefully teach me the basics.

About dies:
I’m looking to reload:

38sp, 357 mag, 44sp, 44 mag, 45 Colt, 45ACP and hopefully some 22 Jet at some point.

Are the dies for the 38/357 the same?
Similarly the 44sp/mag and 45 LC/ACP?

Or do I need does for every kind of shell load?

I see plenty on eBay and I’ve been told spend the $$ and get carbide as they’ll last. Tungsten Carbide I assume?

No doubt I will go with a single stage press to start off with When it comes to my shopping list.

Thanks for any info

 

[ReloadforFun]

The 38/357 Mag dies are normally the same these days. The same with the 44 Spc/44 Mag.

Typically the 45 Colt and 45 Auto have seperatre sizer dies. You may be able to use the samwe expansder and seater, but the case diameters are a bit different. Case diameters for the 38s and 357s are the same, as is the situation for the 44s as well.

 

[ReloadforFun]

To continue, the 22 Jet will need it's own set.

For the straight wall cases carbide is "nicer" in that you don't have to lube the cases to resize. With steel dies you need to lube the cases. You can use lube with the carbide dies and it will ease the sizing effort but is not mandatory as with steel dies.

Carbide dies may depend on who makes them. Historically, tungsten carbide was it, and is still used by RCBS and Lyman (and perhaps others)_. Redding I think is using titanium carbide and Hornady uses titanium nitride coated steel inserts.

Personally, I like Redding and RCBS, followed by Lyman. I dislike the Hornady decapping system as it seems to always slip for me. The Lyman sets that include a case/cartridge gauge are nice.

 

[glenwolde]

Does anybody even make steel pistol dies anymore? Maybe I guess.

Your questions have been correctly answered. Don't go full-bore, pick one cartridge and get to where you want to be with it and then add another.

.38/.357 is an easy one to learn on.

 

[M29since14]

If you buy older dies for the Jet from the internet sites you will likely encounter substantial differences between brands. Likewise with the older die sets for the Jet, design of small parts varied considerably and spares may not be available and will require either custom made replacements or some sort of improvising. For that reason I’d recommend buying a die set of recent manufacture from a company that can provide service and replacement parts.

The Jet, in my experience, is especially temperamental about neck tension. You may want to order several expanders so you can adjust them yourself to get the exact neck tension you desire.

There’s nothing particularly dangerous about handloading for the Jet, but nevertheless I’d recommend getting some experience with other cartridges before getting into it. About 50% of the Model 53s I’ve seen in gun shops have been for sale as “project guns,” which is to say they either need a new cylinder (one or more chambers bulged), are fit only to be salvaged for parts (bent top strap), or are in poor condition in one way or another (often a shot out barrel that needs set back). The other 50% don’t show much wear from use.

Having said all this, if you stumble onto an older die set in nice condition and at an attractive price, you might get lucky. I have three older sets and depending on the shape of the bullets I’m loading and the condition of the brass, I use them all. In actual handloading of cartridges, if you value your revolver, the watchwords are be cautious and be conservative.

 

[glenwolde]

Here's an eBay RCBS die set primer:

On older die sets in the green box, a yellow label means steel dies and a blue label means carbide. They are often incorrectly described. If there's a two digit number on top of the die, that's the year they were made. Also some older RCBS die sets do not have the decapper in the sizing die, it's in the expander. That's not necessarily a problem, except on a progressive press.

 

[rwsmith]

.38/.357

I have a spacer ring, available from people who sell dies (I got mine from Midway) that you put under the .38 dies when reloading .357

And a word of caution. Lee makes great inexpensive dies that do a good job BUT READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE LEE DIES. They have a different setup from most other dies. If you try to set them up like other dies it's trouble.

And you didn't ask for it, but I've compiled a list I keep on file of things you'll need. I tried to send it in a PM to stay on the subject of the thread but your box is full. So here it is anyway.

Reloading list (I keep it CHEAP and I keep it BASIC)

Place to set up. I used to have my press mounted on a bench in the garage, but I mounted it to a board and clamp the works onto a table with C clamps.

Press You can prime the cases on the press, but I use a separate Lee hand squeezer type primer tool. The Lee tool uses different shell holders from the press, but they are cheap.

Dies and shellholders for each caliber.

loading blocks, two are good (I have a store bought one and a couple I made for bigger shells with a dril press)

Case lube and pad. (I use paper towels folded up)

A scale. I have a small one from Frankford Arsenal. Also Lee scoops are cheap. Sometimes I use them alone, sometimes in conjunction with the scale. I also have a trickler to fine adjust but finger or a Lee scoop works. Sometime I weight every load, sometimes every 8 or 10. I also have a Lee Balance Beam (cheap) for checking.

An RCBS Uniflow powder measure is adjustable and works great. Check what you throw on on the scale. I tare a case, load it with powder and put it back on the scale to check it.

A powder funnel

Anybody can probably use a bullet puller. I got tired of the inertia puller and got the Hornady cam lock thing to fit on my press but I haven't tried it yet.

Caliper

Case prep (deburr, chamfer mouth) Maybe some primer pockets tools if needed, I just have a little Lee pocket cleaner)

Trim tools - I use the Lees, they are very inexpensive and I chuck it into my drill press.

Case cleaning: I used to clean cases in a dish pan with Dawn detergent, but I got a Lyman vibrator and a jug of corncob media.. Sometimes I add a little metal polish to the media.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Thanks for all the info.
I have yet to crack open the Lyman book.
I will read and re-read, But I’d very much doubt I’ll be reloading on my own for quite a while as I have veteran reloader friends that live relatively close that I can get some experience with.
I certainly value the revolvers I have, and I Don’t intend to reload to loads that exceed factory pressure.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

As you decide to use different powders for different loads or different cartridges, ONLY HAVE THE POWDER YOU ARE CURRENTLY USING ON THE LOADING BENCH! Same goes for primers.

RWSmith gave a lot of good information. On scales, Do Not Cheap Out on Beam scales. The bottom of the line are just that. The best beam scales for loading are made by Ohas. Lyman and RCBS marketed these with their name on them too. The standard for years was 5-0-5 and the 5-0-10 models. The Hornady "Magnetic Dampened" model is also very good. On electrotonic scales. They are all pretty good, but if abused, they are all pretty bad. I have a RCBS from 20 years ago That's still fine, a couple of small ones from a dope dealer I evicted, they are good also. (If the scale gets overloaded it messes the internal plunger calibration up, then it's toast!)

Expensive reloading scales come with a pan, dope/gold scales don't, you will need one. Make sure you set which system of weight correctly. as in Grains, Grams, Karat weight, Pennyweight, Ounces Troy or Ounces Standard. For reloading "Grains" are the standard.

The systems that dispense gunpowder to a predetermined charge are somewhat picky about which shape of powder they work with (flake, ball, or extruded). The Dippers are very consistent, if you scoop the same way every time.

The normal accuracy of scales is Plus or Minus 1/10 to 2/10 grain for balance beam scales (The good ones I listed are +/- 1/10). Around the same for digital scales, however there digital scales that read to .001 grain, NOT NECESSARY FOR RELOADING!

Most die sets, you have to buy the shell holder separately. Lee sells an assortment kit of 11, it works very well (Be sure you get the kit for loading and not the kit for their priming system- they cost the same.) You probably have to buy the 22 Jet holder separately.

Go slow, Pay Attention, avoid distractions (NO TV! or kids interrupting).

Enjoy and have fun.

Ivan

 

[gwpercle]

Make sure the die box states 38 special/357 magnum on the box / dies .

You can reload the longer 357 mag. with shorter 38 special dies ...
The dies must be adjusted ... but easily done .
If the box/die is marked 357 magnum ... it will Not load the shorter 38 special case ... the crimp can't reach the shorter 38 spcl. case .

Be careful what you buy . I load a lot of 38 special and my dies are marked 38 special (RCBS_) and I adjust them for 357 Magnum with a Spacer ... it makes the dies correct without having to change my adjustments buy screwing / unscrewing the dies ...

My advice is buy 38 Special dies (I like steel dies myself) and a spacer for 357 magnum ... some sets now include a spacer ... but many do not !
Steel dies are cheaper and don't oversize ... Lee Case Lube is the best/easy lube to use ... non-greasy , water soluable and wipe right off ... you don't have to use carbide ... I only use carbide on my 45 ACP (Lyman A-A Dies) ... the rest I've gone back to steel .
Lee Carbide sizing dies are bad about sizing cases Too Small !

Good Luck
Load Safe
Gary

 

[Nightowl]

If you are reloading .357 Magnum, I recommend the Redding dual carbide sizing die. I does a fabulous job, without a lot of effort. I use Hornaday One Shot on all cases, even with carbide dies. Not necessary, but it requires less effort and my hands and shoulder appreciate it.

 

[gwpercle]

Like the Nightowl says ...

Use lube even with carbide sizers ... it makes going in and coming out much easier ... my wife also agrees with the use of lubricant !
Gary

 

[DWalt]

For quite a while, I used .45 ACP dies for reloading .45 Colt. I just neck sized the .45 Colt cases, not full length. It works. Later, I found an old set of .45 Colt dies at a gun show cheap, and that is what I now use. I also have a Lee Loader for .45 Colt, and I occasionally use it if I want to load only a small number of cartridges.

 

[mscampbell2734]

One thing no one has mentioned is cleaning the brass. Brass will be covered with soot/carbon, depending on exactly what powder and caliber your shooting, as well as dirt depending on the range.

Clean brass prevents wear to the dies and extends their life.

Normally cleaning is either dry or wet tumbling. Dry was for years the way to go. Crushed walnut or corncob in a vibration tumbler.

Nowadays wet tumbling with stainless steel pins and solution provide like new brass.

Wet tumbling will provide squeaky clean brass which in the larger pistol cartridges, 45 LC and 44 Mag, almost need lube to easy resizing. A spray of aerosal spray lube on a try of cases, shaken afterwards, is all you need. Rubbing each individual case on a lube pad is NOT needed.

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[Rick H.]

I might draw some fire for saying this, but one thing not mentioned is if you are serious about reloading you need a chronograph. Most reloaders haven't got pressure gauges to check their loads so the chronograph becomes your best friend. For me it is as important as a high quality scale. I gave up trying to make screen style chronographs work reliably and now use a Garmin and/or Labradar. Reloading manuals only go so far in the accuracy department and I have found some serious variations in published speeds in these manuals compared to what I obtained. So now I don't declare any load "good" until it has been through a chrono check. And yes, you can keep an eye on you cases for signs of high pressure, but that only goes so far. I also have one other chronograph, but my favorite right now is the Garmin for accuracy and ease of use.

Learn the basics on a single stage and then transition to a progressive when you feel comfortable doing so. There's alot of stuff going on with a progressive device. I only do pistol calibers on my progressive Hornady press. Rife cartridges are done on my Redding Turret press.

Good luck and be safe.

Rick H.

 

[jg102]

Before getting a single stage I would suggest a turret press to start. You can use a turret just like a single stage if you want but gives you a lot more options. Below is a link to a video I made for a couple guys I met at my gun club last year looking to get into reloading and were looking to get in with a budget entry set up which is what I have. I load 9mm/.223 plinking rounds up to sub-1/2MOA precision rounds in 6.5C and .308 with this equipment.
It just goes to show you don't have to spend a fortune to reload.
I made this vid last year and have since bought my own 3D printer and am printing all kinds of good stuff for reloading.
I just printed a bullet feeder and a new case feeder for the Lee 4000. It runs a lot faster now and I'm priming everything on the Lee APP press now. For dies I use mostly Lee dies except for precision rifle FL sizing, seating & neck sizing.
If your on a budget Lee is a good place to start. As with all their presses you need to figure out what speed and cadence each process wants to run.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW-fuwRE1So&t=56s[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHoCRcGLS_U[/ame]
Best of luck

 

[elpac3]

FYI - jet uses a .38/.357 shell holder

 

[jcelect]

One very important message NOT mentioned!

Reloading is a solitary endeavor!
NO TV, NO cell phone, NO visiting with a friend and/or wife. Stay focused on the task at hand, which is more difficult with a progressive press. With a progressive press you have many things to watch before you operate the lever. With a single stage press a Lee handheld priming tool is easier than priming on the press.
Reloading - Album on Imgur
This is my reloading bench.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
These are 2 antique Herters presses that I
reload my rifle calibers with. I bought both of them for $10.00 each and refurbished them! They will never wear out! They bolt onto the steel plate inletted into the bench top(space saver)!
jcelect