Newly-acquired hand-ejector .38

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noleshot

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Hello, and thank you for willing to help new enthusiasts! I would like to identify the age, value and any other interesting info on this revolver which looks like it has been in a drawer since it was bought. Has some hard-to-spot pitting, but virtually no wear on the bluing. It has no model # under the yoke, is a hand-ejector, is a 5-screw model, has a strain screw, a 5" barrel, .38 S&W special ctg and fixed sights. Serial # is
S 837861. Pictures attached. Thanks!
 

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Welcome! You have a very early post-WW II .38 Military & Police revolver, likely from 1946. Collectors would call it a transitional gun because it has some pre-war and post-war features. Very nice.
 
Thanks for the info. I put some Break Free CLP on obvious bearing surfaces (only removed grips) and a light coat over the exterior. Ran CLP-soaked patch through the bore and cylinder. Has a perfect bore. Only dust - no fouling of any sort. It looks like it was literally kept in a drawer, safe or cabinet, rarely moved or cleaned. If it has been fired, it was a very few times. Given the age and condition, would you recommend further maintenance? Like removing the side plate for lubrication? Thanks, again.
 
Welcome to the forum noleshot. That is a really nice one. To answer your question....some people always remove the sideplate, and clean and lubricate...some people say, wait until it feels like it needs it (grittiness in the action). I sort of fall in the latter side. I have had some revolvers for 40 years that I have never removed the sideplate. Some will say to just spray some lubricant from above the trigger. You may hear some different opinions!
Jim
 
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For heavily used guns, the easy solution is brake cleaner into the frame openings to remove all the accumulated oil, grease and dirt. For an as-new revolver as yours, a 'very' small amount of Break Free or other non heavy lubricant into the action and call it good.
 
It would be safe to estimate mid-1946 as a shipment date for your post-war M&P. The grips appear correct, and should be serial numbered to the gun. There were not that many S-series M&Ps made, fewer than 180,000. Yours is one of the earlier ones having the old-style long action. Depending upon several factors, it would not be too difficult to sell yours in a private sale for a price in the $450-$500 range, perhaps even a bit more if it is in really great condition. You probably do not need to clean it if it doesn't feel gritty, but you could blast it out with spray carb & choke cleaner without removing the side plate. I suggest you wax it with something like Johnson's Paste Wax (many supermarkets and big box stores carry it - Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc.) to make it look better and prevent rusting.
 
Hi Noleshot
Welcome to the Forum.
According to my rather extensive database on the S prefix M&P revolvers, yours most likely shipped from the factory in September, 1946.
It is a very nice example of a 5" barrel .38 M&P from the immediate postwar period. The stocks are correct for the gun, being the first postwar style of Magna stocks. Most likely you will find the gun's serial number impressed into the wood on the inside of the right panel.
One in this condition will very easily sell for $500. I personally would pay that much without hesitation.
I currently have one in my collection with a serial number less than 1000 numbers older than yours. It is not in quite as good condition as yours.
 
Noleshot
Could you please post one more photo of your revolver? I'd like to see a closeup of the cylinder release taken from the top of the gun, looking down on it. Your gun is right on the cusp of a change in the style of cylinder latch, so it would be helpful to my research to know which type it has.
Thanks.
 
Thanks, all, for the helpful info. This is my first nice S & W and I'm felling pretty good about it. Jack, here are a couple of pictures. Let me know if this will suffice.

Have the photos attached?
 

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noleshot said:
Thanks for the info. I put some Break Free CLP on obvious bearing surfaces (only removed grips) and a light coat over the exterior. Ran CLP-soaked patch through the bore and cylinder. Has a perfect bore. Only dust - no fouling of any sort. It looks like it was literally kept in a drawer, safe or cabinet, rarely moved or cleaned. If it has been fired, it was a very few times. Given the age and condition, would you recommend further maintenance? Like removing the side plate for lubrication? Thanks, again.
Click to expand...

I would not remove the side plate or cover on an original finish gun just to lubricate it... I like using Rem Oil, it is very light and leaves a Teflon coating... Just spray it liberally in all the holes of the action, then use compressed air to blow out all the extra oil and any gunk... It works great and I have been doing that to all my original guns that I often shoot. Nice Gun, Good Luck with it.
 
noleshot said:
........ would you recommend further maintenance? Like removing the side plate for lubrication? Thanks, again.
Click to expand...

Since you mention no problems with function I would assume it functions normally. I would not take the risk of buggering what appears to be untouched screws in a well functioning gun.

Congratulations! You have a beautiful revolver in exceptional condition.
 
It makes sense not to risk a slip of the screwdriver when it functions fine and I like the compressed air idea - thanks!
 
That's a beautiful old M&P! I wish my slightly newer one looked so good.

Only one of the many S&W revolvers that I've bought over the last 40 years needed coagulated oil displaced out of its innards. While you are evaluating the various suggestions consider that anything you spray into it will continue dripping out for some time. Oil soaked walnut does not look good and the oil can not be gotten out of it. I don't even want to see what carburetor cleaner will do to the grip's finish. I'm sure you can complete the expression "if it aint broke don't ..."
 
"Most likely you will find the gun's serial number impressed into the wood on the inside of the right panel."

Jack - I checked and there wasn't the SN under either grip - FYI
 
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