Nikon P-223 4-12x40 scope.. Accurate or not?

cmarler1

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Looking to install the Nikon P-223 scope on my S&W M&P Sport AR 15 but have seen negative feedback from viewers. Does anyone have this scope and how accurate is the bullet drop compensation? From what I can tell this scope was calibrated using a muzzle velocity of 3240 fps and a 55gr round.
 
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I think any of these reticles made specifically for bullet trajectory are a compromise. They work OK for large targets, like a standing human, but they leave a lot to be desired from a hunting standpoint.

You are limited to a specific load, and as you noted in this case, a 55 grainer. So you need to consider your twist rate. This scope probably won't be ideal on a gun with a 1:7" barrel because the bullet works better with a 1:9" twist and best with a 1:12" twist.

In most cases these scopes have the reticle in the second focal plane. This means the reticle stays the same size as you zoom. Thus the reticle is only good at one specific zoom setting. This is almost invariably the maximum magnification setting. A more expensive first focal plane scope matches the size of the reticle to the power setting of the scope.

Myself, I prefer a target style elevation knob. Currently using a Leupold Mark AR 3-9x scope on my AR15 coyote rifle. The knob is set for 55 grainers and is a pretty good match even when using ballistic tip bullets instead of FMJ. For $65 Leupold will laser engrave a replacement knob for whatever bullet you want, like a 62 grainer, and you can specify velocity, etc. This is not limited to the Mark AR series. Leupold can do this for most of their target knob scopes.

When hunting coyotes in wooded areas, I leave it set on 100 yards. In wide open country, I might set further, especially in an area coyotes are known to have been overhunted and "hang up" some distance out and not come closer. I practice on varmints, and so far the knob system has worked pretty well.

If you're thinking it takes time to change the knob setting, consider this: You also have to change the power setting for a second focal plane ballistic reticle, unless you constantly carry it around on max power setting. I'd rather have one set up for a drop reticle at the MINIMUM power setting, and use knobs for longer ranges.

The above is my opinion based on the needs of a coyote hunter, but I think as a generality it covers tactical use too.
 
I don't have your specific scope but it's big brother. It's accurate enough with the specified bullets the scope is designed for but like mentioned previously, it gets you close and isn't a match reticule. If you aren't looking for match winning accuracy, the scope will serve you well.

For the money, Nikon makes a very good scope. Say, mid grade quality along with Vortex and Primary Arms scopes. The P-Series is built off the Prostaff line, which is a lower model compared to the M-Series line, which tends to be their better, if not top of the line models.
 
Looking to install the Nikon P-223 scope on my S&W M&P Sport AR 15 but have seen negative feedback from viewers. Does anyone have this scope and how accurate is the bullet drop compensation? From what I can tell this scope was calibrated using a muzzle velocity of 3240 fps and a 55gr round.

The reason you see negative feedback isn't because of calibration but rather because of the thick cluttered donut style reticle. People get these and think they'll precision punch paper with it... ain't going too work well.



As far as ballistics... your Sport with a 16in barrel will deliver about 100fps less muzzle velocity than what's on the box of ammo. It's no big deal.

Here's a chart of your 55gr 3240fps vs 3140fps. Very little difference that you'll never take out with any reticle. To compensate for this little of difference requires turret adjustment but with off the shelf ammo and rifle you're using... forget about it.





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So.... don't worry about the reticle calibration but rather the style of reticle that best serves your purpose.
 
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Just went through the exercise of checking out a similar scope reticle with one of the guys on my hunting lease who is not a rifleman. You have to take the time and effort to shoot it in but it works well enough to take deer sized game. It is hard to find any shots over 250 yards in most of the places I have ever hunted so I just use a standard cross hair and set up the rifle scope for max effective range of the round I am using. Don't like all the clutter in my lense.
 
Thanks for the info. Just to clarify, I am wanting to coyote hunt with my rifle and will probably need to make long range shots. I have not purchased a scope yet and just looking at my options.
 
I've got he P-223 3-9x40 and like it a lot.I also like the Spot-On app that Nikon has that allows you to punch in your specific scope,ammo,zero and some other factors.You can then print out the results or take the app with you on your smartphone.I like it's simplicity for taking out the guesswork since I don't have the smarts for a lot of technical stuff.Of course others will disagree but they're likely smarter than I am and have more experience.

I only shoot for fun but I guess that if it meant the difference of starving or putting food on the table I might've considered researching other scopes.
 
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You're looking at a gadget scope with a "busy" reticle. I've found it far better to get something with a plain, fine crosswire. Bullet drop gizmos can be pretty close, but are sometimes (maybe often) not precise enough to be useful.

It takes little effort to zero at 200 yards. You'll only be a little high at 100 and several inches low at 300, if you choose to shoot that far. And, you don't have to depend on the limiting factors of scope bullet compensation designed around a particular load.

With a little practice and a rangefinder (or skill at estimating distances) you can do your own compensation about as well as "compromise" scopes.

Now, in defense of gadgetry, I have one of the Leupold Mark AR scopes with a basic reticle. It can be used like a plain scope, zero it and shoot.
 
Just went through the exercise of checking out a similar scope reticle with one of the guys on my hunting lease who is not a rifleman. You have to take the time and effort to shoot it in but it works well enough to take deer sized game. It is hard to find any shots over 250 yards in most of the places I have ever hunted so I just use a standard cross hair and set up the rifle scope for max effective range of the round I am using. Don't like all the clutter in my lense.

Well that's just it. Out to 250yds it's just a point and click exercise anyway. No need for holdover.

On my long range guns I use a range finder with DOPE on the inside of the flip scope cap. Range, click-click-click finger turret... bang.
 
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Not the exact model but here is a recent review on the general model line and the BDC reticule. Purely happy coincidence that these guys did a review recently.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpK10IOIbDM&list=PLJUaiRIEduNVLB9RTPI1cemyZ20II5ei8&index=19[/ame]
 
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