Not happy with my polish job.

[44magsam]

My 44mag when I purchased it was the buff factory finish. I made the mistake of polishing it out with mothers mag and now I don't like it (it shows scratches I can't seem to get out). My question: can I somehow turn it back into the factory finish and it will look like it did when I bought it or will I make it worse? If I can successfully do this what is the best way to do it?
Thanks

 

[georgepittenger]

I dunno about going back ....

But Mothers also makes a Billet Polish for a finer finishing that may help on your remaining scratches .

Regards ,
George

 

[-db-]

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/206377-how-do-i-replicate-satin-finish.html

 

[bassoneer]

I'm sure others will have better advice, but you might try using a white 3M pad with the Mother's Mag polish to take it a half-step backward...then if you want less shine and more of the brushed look you might try the white 3M pad by itself. Perhaps you could even progressively reverse the process by using the gray 3M pad with MMP, and then the gray pad by itself. I am not sure about this, but it would seem each of these would progressively take the process in reverse. The thread link provided by db (above) is good with several ideas...

Good luck, B

 

[glowe]

I sometimes think that collectors have given a false image that all guns, no matter how old, should look like new. You have a great used S&W revolver that will never look factory new again. It is called character by many and has some history, but trying to make it look like it was never fired may end up giving you more problems than it solves.

What finish did the gun come with originally? You state a buff finish, is that nickel or stainless?

If it is a nickel finish, you have probably done as much as you can, but if it is a satin finish, you have the option to have it bead blasted as stated by another member. Results look like the gun in this link.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...glass-bead-blast-3-model-686-1-completed.html

 

[gmiller0737]

Perhaps try something less gritty than the Mothers,Such as never dull or Extreme Metal Polish (Try Motorcycle Shop for the Extreme)

 

[kudzu3]

I've never tried it but other members have reported excellent results using scotch brite pads. Not the green from the grocery store but white or gray pads. These pads are supposed to return the finish to new and it has been suggested that S&W uses something very similar. Not sure, but you may find some info in the smithing section here. I'm assuming that it is stainless.

 

[TAROMAN]

I have polished a number of SS guns. Thinking about matte finishing, I would try soda blasting.

 

[chief38]

Others have reported great success using various grits of 3M pads. Since I have never personally tried it I can not give you any pointers, but there are a few posts on this Forum regarding just such a task. I suppose you could give it a try and if you are happy with the results, great. If you are still unhappy after that, send it home to the Factory for a refinish.

I only polished one Stainless Gun and that was after 30 years of CCW. It was a M60 2" which had gotten pretty beat up over the years. I used Flitz and polished it by hand only (no Dremel) and I stopped when the bulk of the scratches and sins of 30 years had disappeared. It left me with a brighter finish, but not super bright like Nickel. I would classify it as being a satin/bright finish if that makes any sense. The day after doing this one of my friends was so impressed with it, he bought it from me.

chief38

 

[jrm53]

The above poster may have hit right on the soda blasting, I have never seen it used but it would be better than glass bead, where I used to work we etched reamers and endmills and if some one made a mistake on one we had a "Vapor Hone" which was a liquid sand blaster that used very fine liquid with some media in it, the parts came out a very smooth satin gray, it would be fine if you could find some one to do it. Jeff

 

[yamadeal]

Scotch Brite pads come in different grits get the right grit and you can match the original finish on nearly any SS gun. I've never tried to undo a polish job but see no reason it wouldn't work just fine. Blended lots of repairs etc with no problem.

 

[Frank46]

3M sells these abrasive pads. coarse,medium,fine and ultra fine.You can get themiddle 3 at either home depot. The coarse is usually brown in color,the medium is green in color,and the fine is light gray almost silver in color.Thing you get one pad of each grade in a package. Or check Enco online catalog. They have a few more grits like ultra fine listed.But a pack of each grit and go from there. But remember these are abrasive pads they will take off metal. There are also different grits of silicon carbide wet and dry paper. Think it starts off around 180,220,240,300,400,600,1000 and a few grades above that.Completely disassemble the revolver to avoid getting any abrasive on the parts. This is before useing either of the two abrasives previously mentioned. The thing thing you can try is a wire wheel that has fine very thin wires on it. Brownells probably sells it. I have one in my shop and have only used it sparingly on rifle parts. My polisher/buffing machine is set up on a stand that is about 30-32" high.
I have a bad back and cannot stand for long periods of time. The stand was made from an old typewriter table that has wheels and a cute gizmo that allows the table to sit on the floor or be wheeled around. Only problem if I sit for long periods of time then my legs start hurting. If you decide to use the wire wheel make sure you are wearing either a full face shield or some type of goggles. I don't know by what method S&W uses for their satin brush finish on their stainless steel guns. But one of those three should help. Frank