OK, I give up (XS endshake)

[prefer_wheelguns]

I posted yesterday about cylinder endshake in my 1917. After spending more time here, I've learned that I first have to fix .005" of yoke end play before I begin to worry about the cylinder.

Checking Brownell's, it looks as if a proper job is going to get awfully spendy: it'll require a crane stretcher and a yoke facing reamer before I even think about endshake shims. That's $100 in parts and tools that I'll only use once.

Nah.

Does anyone know of a good gunsmith on the forum who'd be willing to take this on? Someone with an FFL so I can ship to them UPS?

Thanks!

 

[prefer_wheelguns]

I posted yesterday about cylinder endshake in my 1917. After spending more time here, I've learned that I first have to fix .005" of yoke end play before I begin to worry about the cylinder.

Checking Brownell's, it looks as if a proper job is going to get awfully spendy: it'll require a crane stretcher and a yoke facing reamer before I even think about endshake shims. That's $100 in parts and tools that I'll only use once.

Nah.

Does anyone know of a good gunsmith on the forum who'd be willing to take this on? Someone with an FFL so I can ship to them UPS?

Thanks!

 

[sar4937]

How about Smith & Wesson?

 

[FlyFish]

John Lawor at JDL Sales in Springfield, MA is a certified S&W armorer who recently fixed the cylinder end shake on a couple of my 586s at very reasonable cost, and did it in record short time to boot. Nobody else touches my S&W revolvers from now on. Highly recommended.

Depending on where you are in NH you could drive the gun down (check on MA transport laws first) and save shipping (and visit the mothership while you're there).

www.jdlsales.net

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by prefer_wheelguns:
I posted yesterday about cylinder endshake in my 1917. After spending more time here, I've learned that I first have to fix .005" of yoke end play before I begin to worry about the cylinder.

Checking Brownell's, it looks as if a proper job is going to get awfully spendy: it'll require a crane stretcher and a yoke facing reamer before I even think about endshake shims. That's $100 in parts and tools that I'll only use once.

Nah.

Does anyone know of a good gunsmith on the forum who'd be willing to take this on? Someone with an FFL so I can ship to them UPS?

Thanks!

You don't need to stretch the crane, just use the shims. You don't need special tools for this.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

Watch this Small Video from Midway USA
Midway USA How To Eliminate Endshake S&W Revolver

 

[gboling]

S&W did my pre 17, 4 years ago for $35.00

 

[Nicksterdemus]

You don't need to stretch the crane, just use the shims. You don't need special tools for this.

I guess it might come in handy though?

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by Nicksterdemus:

You don't need to stretch the crane, just use the shims. You don't need special tools for this.

I guess it might come in handy though?

I honestly would not stretch the crane even if I had the tools, it's an inferior way to fix end shake. The gun grows end shake because the end of the crane tube rubs on the cylinder and wears it away, you can see the groove inside there if you look close. The washers are made of steel that is harder and slicker than the gun steel and act as a "thrust bearing" and reduces the wear so the end shake problem doesn't come back anytime soon. If you stretch the crane and reface it, your gun will get endshake again just like it did the first time.

SW will ONLY stretch the crane simply because they won't do a fix that can go wrong if the user tears the gun down and loses the washer accidentally. But, if you are smart enough to fit the shims, you are smart enough not to lose them.

 

[Nicksterdemus]

Thanks for the explanation. I wondered coz the the crane stretcher seems to be basically a tubing cutter. I understand that if you force a sharp wheel on a tube while spinning that the groove made spreads the metal, adding to the overall length to a certain degree. I thought maybe that was a way to recoup cost of the stretcher vs two buck shims, if you did a lot of tune-ups. Of course if you bought in quantity I'm sure the price would be much cheaper. I think I saw where they were 17 clams plus shipping for ten. Then again some feeler stock, a hand punch, few brews and a little time would have plenty of cheap shims. So long as the punch & dies size were compatable. Might have to check them on flat iron or an anvil to make sure they didn't bow.
Kinda like twistin' ya own, there's sumpthin' to be said about a ready-roll...& that:

The washers are made of steel that is harder and slicker than the gun steel