Older Mdl 36

[Retired Texas Cop]

I just aquired a S&W mdl. 36 (no dash) with a serial no. of 5678XX. Finish is 90 to 95%. DO NOT WANT TO SELL OR TRADE, but do have a couple of questions. How old is it? Is it safe to shoot with +P's? I see S&W has come out with the 36 as a Classic at about $750, what would be an insurance price on this gun?

 

[Retired Texas Cop]

I just aquired a S&W mdl. 36 (no dash) with a serial no. of 5678XX. Finish is 90 to 95%. DO NOT WANT TO SELL OR TRADE, but do have a couple of questions. How old is it? Is it safe to shoot with +P's? I see S&W has come out with the 36 as a Classic at about $750, what would be an insurance price on this gun?

 

[diamonback68]

Judging by the serial number I would put it at about 1967. There is is no precise serialization between 1962 and 1969.

 

[riptrack44]

I wouldn't shoot +P in it. Those pressures weren't meant for that gun.

 

[prefer_wheelguns]

I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV.

A common refrain is that an occasional cylinder-full of +P will do no harm to an older J frame in good shape. I am not saying it's true, I'm only saying that I've heard same, many times. Usually the above is followed by a statement advising to practice with standard pressure ammo and then only carry +P warshots.

Makes no sense at all to me, to carry something you don't practice with regularly. But of course, I have no idea what I'm talking about most of the time.

Now that you've read this, please burn your computer, OK?

 

[photoman]

With the availability of Buffalo Bore standard pressure #20C 158gr LHP's at 850fps, there's no need to beat up that nice older J frame.

Insurance value will depend on condition and accessories.

 

[tom turner]

Hi,

If your little roscoe locks up tight and is in great shooting shape (which it probably is), I see no harm in running some hot ammo through it occasionally.

I've done likewise with my '64 era Model 36 no dash, and generally stoke it with Remington 158gn. LSWC-HP in +P for self defense.

That being said, it LOVES the mild 148 grain wadcutter ammo and shoots inside of one inch at ten yards with wadcutter.

In all my handguns, in all centerfire calibers, I handload light loads for practice . . . it is more fun, cheaper AND will make the guns outlast me!

T.

PS: About a year ago I found this real nice nickle-plated M36, and paid $350 for it, which is a fair price for one in this condition but definitely not a steal.

IMHO, this is probably a little on the high side for a nice M36 with original serial numbered (to the gun) stocks but no box, etc.

A year later? Probably the going price for a nice J frame like this is about $400. NO WAY would I buy one of the new "classics" . . . with the internal lock. These new ones will quickly fall in value once shot . . . and soon fall below the original ones like you and I have, IMHO.

If you insure yours for about $400 you would be about right, IMHO.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by Retired Texas Cop:
I just aquired a S&W mdl. 36 (no dash) with a serial no. of 5678XX. Finish is 90 to 95%. DO NOT WANT TO SELL OR TRADE, but do have a couple of questions. How old is it? Is it safe to shoot with +P's? I see S&W has come out with the 36 as a Classic at about $750, what would be an insurance price on this gun?

Occasional +P is not a problem - carry but shoot only a few for familiarization.

 

[Retired Texas Cop]

Thanks for the info and please bear with me. I just learned how to upload pics (see Concealed Carry thread on home holster) I paid $150 for the 36 with only slight muzzle wear(diamond grips put up) and the 642 was a retirement gift from my officers. I shot 50 rounds of Win. 38 spl Super Match 148 gr. Lead Mid-Range W/C (X38SMRP) through the 36 and you would not believe the leading in the cylinder.