Once again, another .357 load needed

lazy

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I am working on a .357 magnum load from a different prospective. What it is that I need really is wich powder, and primer to use for what I want it for.
The gun, 686-6 4 inch

What it is that I want this bullet for is to kill anything that has fur, and claws. Hunt/kill deer, or elk if need be, car engines.

I have several boxes of Hornady .357 mag 158 gr xtp with a muzzle velocity 1250 at the end of the barrel, 50 yds is 1150, and 1073 at 100 yds. I shot up a box of them, and the recoil was solid, but im willing to take more recoil for a harder hitting bullet.

Now I have looked at many different load data specs, but it leaves me at an ummmm. This will also be a steady diet for the gun along with the .38 load you all gave me some time ago. I have heard that magnum primers only need to be used in cold weather, I have carried this pistol in Washington cold weather, but how cold is cold? I do not mind paying more for the magnum primers if needed, I just want some thing that will work ever time.

I have arlready set my dies with a tight roll crimp, and I have had 3 other reloaders look it over and given the ok on it.

The bullet, 158 grain Hornady XTP.

Primer?

Powder?

Thanks a lot for the info.
 
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H110 or 296, & a Magnum primer, and it's the powder that determines the need for a Magnum primer, more than ambient temperature. Some powders are harder to ignite than others. Magnum primers give more consistent ignition, for example, with ball powders.
 
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Cold

Minneapolis, -10° F shot 357 mag loaded with WW 296 powder 158 gr LSWC gas checked bullet and standard primers. No problem.

When winter lasts mid-November to late March, you go shooting on sunny days and dress for the temperature. Now in Georgia it's another story. :D
 
158gr XTP
16.7gr H110/W296
Magnum LP primer (Magnum primers are a must for this powder)

This is Hodgdon's listed maximum, so you can start at their listed minimum of 15.0gr and work up safely. I have always used top end H110/W296 data without issue though, this powder likes to be maxed out.

I have only run this load across a chrony using 16.0gr of W296. Muzzle velocity was 1275 from a 6" barrel. So you will be looking at 1325+ from your 4" if you can work up to 16.7gr safely.

This load will be very LOUD, so hearing protection is a must even in the field. Also it is pretty stout to use regularly in any gun, it may accelerate wear. But that's what you asked for so there it is.
 
To expand on my previous post, in my experience, 296 & H110 will ignite fine with Std primers, but Magnum primers lower the std deviation, & shrink group size substantially. And as was stated, these loads are most accurate JUST under maximum.
 
Altho legal in your state to do so, I myself would not hunt elk with 158gr XTPs in a .357. I've killed several deer with that combo and it worked well, but IMHO, the penetration of this combo would be very iffy on a full grown bull elk. Even loaded with 180gr Hard cast, shot placement would have to be perfect and the blood trail left by a marginally expanding bullet may be tough to follow even in the best of conditions. That said, your XTPs will perform well with anything between 15 and 16 grs of H110/W296 over a small pistol magnum primer. Cold weather may retard the ignition of these powders, but even in warm weather, a magnum primer is needed for complete and consistent ignition in .357 due to the small case capacity. Consistent ignition is needed for consistent velocities and accuracy. Same goes for consistent crimp. Consistent crimp is dependent on consistent case length. My most accurate H110/W296 loads are those made with cases having the same length, regardless of caliber. This means either sorting your cases by size/headstamp or trimming them.
 
My load for that bullet is not for a handgun. My wife has a Marlin 1894 CS that shoots that ting like a bottom and 35 Remington. The load is from some of Brian Pearce's Handloader articles. He shot it in the exact same firearm and shoots just under the 2100fps mark.

The powder is Lil' Gun, which is not recommended in revolvers.

I do my best not to shoot jacketed in any of my revolvers as I cast! ;)
 
Thanks guys.
using a .357 on an elk would be for cleaning up after a elk V car fight kind of thing.
 
I am working on a .357 magnum load from a different prospective. What it is that I need really is wich powder, and primer to use for what I want it for.
The gun, 686-6 4 inch

What it is that I want this bullet for is to kill anything that has fur, and claws. Hunt/kill deer, or elk if need be, car engines.

I have several boxes of Hornady .357 mag 158 gr xtp with a muzzle velocity 1250 at the end of the barrel, 50 yds is 1150, and 1073 at 100 yds. I shot up a box of them, and the recoil was solid, but im willing to take more recoil for a harder hitting bullet.

Now I have looked at many different load data specs, but it leaves me at an ummmm. This will also be a steady diet for the gun along with the .38 load you all gave me some time ago. I have heard that magnum primers only need to be used in cold weather, I have carried this pistol in Washington cold weather, but how cold is cold? I do not mind paying more for the magnum primers if needed, I just want some thing that will work ever time.

I have arlready set my dies with a tight roll crimp, and I have had 3 other reloaders look it over and given the ok on it.

The bullet, 158 grain Hornady XTP.

Primer?

Powder?

Thanks a lot for the info.

It looks like your velocity figures came straight from the company's website, which means those are the figures they got with their test equipment for consumers to compare their products with those of other manufacturers' ....nothing more. Unless you run your loads across a chronograph you will have no idea if you are getting what you want.

My 686 4" does not get it's best velocity with H110. When I want that, I use 2400. Yours might be different but, again, you will never know until you check them yourself.

As for primers, I always used magnums with H110 (as recommended). Aside from lackluster velocity results in .357, they were accurate enough and clean burning so I saw no reason to reinvent the wheel. 2400 does not require them, which is simpler for me since I need only keep one type of small pistol primer on hand. It is also more flexible to use in loads that are somewhat less than maximum.

Unless you have definitely hung your hat on a JSP, you might consider a premium cast bullet. Cast bullets have less friction than jacketed bullets and can often be driven faster at the same (or lower) pressure. If the most velocity/power is the prime consideration, they might be worth a look.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
 
I had picked the Hornady cause its always on the shelf at the stores, maybe next time ill have to look harder.
 
I continue to be amazed at the willingness to accept .38 Special velocities for use in .357 Mags. Using 12.5 gr of 2400 (2004 manufacture) in .38 Special brass with a 158 gr XTP I clocked 1194 fps with a 4" M66, 1213 fps with a 6" Security Six and 1191 fps with a 6" M686.

With a 358429 and 13.5 gr of 2400, I clocked 1270 fps, again using .38 Special brass in a 6" M28-2. Jumping the load to 15.0 gr in .357 brass, the M28-2 clocked 1380 fps (instrumental at 15').

The 4" M66-2 will clock 1257 fps using 13.5 gr of 2400 and a 158 gr Oregon Trails LSWC in .38 Special brass and 1260 fps with the same load and a Dry Creek 158 gr Blaster.

The only time I use H110/W296 is in a gun belonging to someone else, or in a rifle.
 
I have loaded .357 Magnum ammo with HS-6, W296/H110, Lil'Gun, 2400 and probably a few others.

When loading for a Marlin carbine I use Lil'Gun and a 180gr Hard Cast bullet. For revolvers I use several powders but with a 158gr XTP I have found W296 works well. I have tried the Max charge recommended by Hodgdon but I have had more success and accuracy with a slightly lower charge of 16.4gr W296. (CCI-550 SPM primer) 2400 will also work well as will AA#9. Find a powder that will build ammo that's accurate in your revolver and run with it...
 
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