Open top holsters - I'm scared!

Triggernosis

Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2008
Messages
1,296
Reaction score
839
Location
Wilson, NC
I want to like open top holsters, mainly due to the fact that they employ less material and are subsequently less obtrusive and bulky. However, I keep looking at them and imagining that one day I'd look down and my gun would be GONE and I wouldn't know where I lost it. Are my feelings unfounded? I don't own one now - all of mine are thumb-break holsters.
 
Register to hide this ad
I want to like open top holsters, mainly due to the fact that they employ less material and are subsequently less obtrusive and bulky. However, I keep looking at them and imagining that one day I'd look down and my gun would be GONE and I wouldn't know where I lost it. Are my feelings unfounded? I don't own one now - all of mine are thumb-break holsters.

Of course you have every reason to be cautious. My suggestion is that strapless is for concealment UNDER something, so that it's not being offered to strangers; and with a strap when your employer requires it, or you're in open carry mode.

As for falling out, most of us give you several features such as wet-moulding and pressure from the welt (the original threepersons method) and in my case my 'welt' is topped by an adjustable retention roller to give the release you like:

IMG_1744.JPG

This one is a 'snapcake': a pancake style that snaps on and off the belt. There are many models available from many makers; this is simply an example of one way to give you what you're wondering about.

In summary, strapless when it can't be seen, is the ideal criterion. FBI holsters going back to the mid 1930s, such as the Myres 614 and the Hesier 457, were strapless and relied on pressure from the welt and were always covered by a coat.

Thumbsnaps became the rage in the 60s and 70s, fell out of favour by the '90s due to 'combat' shooters. I invented the 'thumrake' for autos because the thumsnap was invented for the low thumb position used on revolvers and not well-suited to the high thumb position needed to reach for the thumbsafety on, e.g., the 1911s.
 
Last edited:
An open top holster that does not have enough friction to hold the gun in place, or some type of mechanical retention method, may be a problem. With few exceptions modern holster makers have one or both features designed into their products.
 
Unfounded? Yea! After 10 years of carrying almost all week I have yet to have any gun even slightly move, giggle, rise, lower or whatever. That's assuming you're buying a quality holster and not some shopping bag in a Sami shape of a gun

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
High quality manufacturers are the best bet for strapless retention holsters.

My Milt Sparks Versa Max 2 doesn't look like much at first glance but holds TIGHT and and has never given me issue in the last three years of wearing it every single day.
 
The most important reason for the open top is speed. They may only
be a split second quicker, but a split second could be very important.
Maybe that's why they are called speed scabbards.

As Red said, open tops are for concealment, not for open carry.

I learned a long time ago, I think from Chic Gaylord, to put my
unloaded gun in my new holster, hold it over the bed or some
other soft surface, and shake it. If you can shake it out, you
tighten the tension and try again. If you don't have a tension
adjustment screw, the holster goes in that big collection box.

Somewhere between being able to shake it out and too tight to
get it out quickly when you want to is the proper tension. That
is how I judge a holster.

So far, the best tension (gun to holster fit) I have ever experienced
is this very early (triple H) Heiser. It was before model numbers, but
is identical to model 457. It is shown with S&W's Model 10.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_0300.jpg
    SAM_0300.jpg
    45.1 KB · Views: 109
When I hunt I use holsters with retention straps. When I, otherwise, EDC then I use open-top holsters with either a retention screw, or some sort of clamp like a Safariland, 'ALS' or a Blackhawk SERPA pushbutton lock.

I've also got open top holsters from: Del Fatti, Tucker, El Paso, and Davis. They're all tight enough for me to do several somersaults without losing the gun. (The older El Paso #88 holster I use has a steel-reinforced open top on it; and it holds — and re:holsters — the gun very well.)

Have I ever dropped a pistol out of an open-topped holster? Yes, I have. Exactly one time in more than fifty years of carrying pistols. It was a Blade-Tech Custom-Kydex holster with a tightly screwed-down tension screw; but, apparently, it wasn't screwed-down tight enough!

The pistol didn't fall out. Instead it was levered out of the holster by the extended arm of a chair that got between the holster and the butt of the gun I was carrying — I was moving fast; and that pistol flew through the air for about six feet before it finally landed on a hard linoleum floor and, fortuitously, didn't end up accidentally discharging.

Admittedly, it was a freak accident; but it just goes to show you: Freak accidents can and sometimes DO happen!
 
Last edited:
Well, since I generally carry both concealed and open, on the same day, I'd probably better stick to a holster with some sort of retention device. I may leave the house with my gun on my hip covered by an outer jacket (thereby "concealed"), but after a few trips in and out of stores, stopping by the farm, etc., the gun is by then fully exposed and I may be standing in line at the convenience store with it in full view. Thus, I'd probably better stick to something like a thumb-break retention type holster.
 
while i don't yet carry i do read on and look at various holster options; and yes the OP's question has popped into my head as well. I too have seen the options in the Blackhawk Serpa line that is an open top holster that will lock it in place.
Cant say if this is a route i'd take, not even sure if I'd want leather or Kydex when the time comes, but it did peak my interest somewhat.

http://www.blackhawk.com/Products/H...RPA-CQC-Concealment-Holster-Matte-Finish.aspx
 
I learned a long time ago, I think from Chic Gaylord, to put my
unloaded gun in my new holster, hold it over the bed or some
other soft surface, and shake it. If you can shake it out, you
tighten the tension and try again. If you don't have a tension
adjustment screw, the holster goes in that big collection box.

Somewhere between being able to shake it out and too tight to
get it out quickly when you want to is the proper tension. That
is how I judge a holster.

This is what I do. I carry my 642 in a Side Guard Holsters Quick Clip IWB holster and after over 5 years of regular use it still passes the test.

I agree that open-topped holsters are best for concealed carry or the various gun games that require a fast draw, and retention holsters are essentially required if you open carry.

However, while I prefer a well-molded open-topped holster for concealed carry, there's nothing wrong with using a retention holster for concealed carry if that suits you better, especially if you're familiar with it and well-practiced. I see no reason for you to change unless you just want to try something else.
 
A strapless holster is like a strapless bra...it works just fine if it is not over-burdened and is stationary. Movement and weight are unfriendly to both. Molding greatly improves retention. Here are a few examples.
The Galco Combat Master (CM202) passes the upside down shake test.
image1906.jpg


The DeSantis 019 X7 with a retention screw.
DeSantis_019_X7.jpg


The Don Hume 721 OT, not as secure as the above holsters.
holsters_012.JPG
 
Last edited:
Any holster I make will hold the intended gun securely when turned upside down and shaken vigorously. Straps are like EPA regulations, they exist to make on "feel good" only.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss straps as placebos. Colbybruce's pics of old school strapless holsters show they don't have slide guards at the back, and thumb snaps automatically provide that in the form of the tab there. More coverage of the outer side of the pistol is also provided. There's nothing that says the snap needs to be done up, either.

The OP's point is well considered and surely something carriers are wondering about, even if unconsciously, when buying. And some employers, such as police agencies, absolutely require them. And for 1911 carriers the cocked hammer can create some unease even for observers.

Many of my designs are strapless with tension screws -- that DeSantis in Colbybruce's post is one I did for them -- because the cognoscenti are my target market. By definition, then, they are not for everyone.

Crazyphil: Chic didn't use adjustable tension devices, though he did use thumb snaps and pull through straps, some over the hammer and others 'round the back of the trigger guard.
 
Last edited:
rednichols, did you design the 118 X7 for DeSantis too? It is my favorite holster for my Shield.
DeSantis_118_X7.jpg


I tried the DeSantis 028 X7 with my Shield, I am just not a fan of IWB. I gave it to my son.
DeSantis_028_X7.jpg
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss straps as placebos. Colbybruce's pics of old school strapless holsters show they don't have slide guards at the back, and thumb snaps automatically provide that in the form of the tab there. More coverage of the outer side of the pistol is also provided. There's nothing that says the snap needs to be done up, either.

The OP's point is well considered and surely something carriers are wondering about, even if unconsciously, when buying. And some employers, such as police agencies, absolutely require them. And for 1911 carriers the cocked hammer can create some unease even for observers.

Many of my designs are strapless with tension screws -- that DeSantis in Colbybruce's post is one I did for them -- because the cognoscenti are my target market. By definition, then, they are not for everyone.

Crazyphil: Chic didn't use tension devices.
I add 'em if the customer asks for them. Otherwise, I find them unnecessary. I understand some law enforcement require retention devices. As I stated earlier, it is a "feel good" measure.
 
I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss straps as placebos. Colbybruce's pics of old school strapless holsters show they don't have slide guards at the back, and thumb snaps automatically provide that in the form of the tab there. More coverage of the outer side of the pistol is also provided. There's nothing that says the snap needs to be done up, either.

The OP's point is well considered and surely something carriers are wondering about, even if unconsciously, when buying. And some employers, such as police agencies, absolutely require them. And for 1911 carriers the cocked hammer can create some unease even for observers.

Many of my designs are strapless with tension screws -- that DeSantis in Colbybruce's post is one I did for them -- because the cognoscenti are my target market. By definition, then, they are not for everyone.

Crazyphil: Chic didn't use tension devices.

And furthermore his holsters didn't need tension screws.
I had one years ago and the fit was so good there was no
need for a tension screw.

The Price Western Model #320
is a good replica of Chic Gaylord's speed scabbard.

Thad Rybka also made me a good replica. I don't know how
they do it but the gun doesn't come out unless I want it to
come out.

Price Western on the left with S&W 642.
2nd and 3rd Thad Rybka's front and back with Ruger LCR
 

Attachments

  • SAM_0061.jpg
    SAM_0061.jpg
    104.2 KB · Views: 60
  • SAM_0178.jpg
    SAM_0178.jpg
    91.1 KB · Views: 59
  • SAM_0180.jpg
    SAM_0180.jpg
    100 KB · Views: 56
Last edited:
Back
Top