opinion on trigger stops

[The Cod Father]

I have been thinking about putting a trigger stop on my 625. Just to stop any over travel and get a quicker return for my next shot . I haven't done this yet but I would like your input on wether this is a good modification to add to my pistol or not.

TCF

 

[The Cod Father]

I have been thinking about putting a trigger stop on my 625. Just to stop any over travel and get a quicker return for my next shot . I haven't done this yet but I would like your input on wether this is a good modification to add to my pistol or not.

TCF

 

[john traveler]

S&W for many years now has been using trigger stops on their N frame models. It's a piece of rod inside the rebound slide spring. You can make your own easily from brazing or welding rod. Just measure, fit, and cut to size to allow the trigger to just release from a cocked hammer.

 

[The Cod Father]

INSIDE the rebound spring !!!!!

Seriously.

I thought that it was in the trigger guard and behind the trigger ,usually just some form of set screw. Does every revolver have this built in and is there a way I can adjust it without having to take the side plate off??

Thanks
TCF

 

[Rich W]

The rod in the rebound slide spring is a non adjustable trigger stop. Get the length set right and no adjustment should be required.

In addition to being on most N frames it is also fitted to my 500 S&W X frame from the factory.

No reason IMO it could not be fitted to all S&W revolvers but the factory seems to only fit it normally to N and X? frame guns. Also not sure it is on all current N frames as the part is not shown in the current exploded diagrem for S&W revolvers in my parts manual.

 

[Pat_Jones]

Originally posted by The Cod Father:
INSIDE the rebound spring !!!!!

Seriously.

Yup, I have one in my 629.

 

[john traveler]

The inside-the-trigger guard stops were only used on K frame target models (M14, M15, M16, M17, M18. M18) and were discontinued in the late 1970s because of a number of incidents of them coming loose and preventing firing in law enforcement guns. Not a good thing.

The N-frame inside-the-rebound slide spring trigger stop has to be fitted, but once done, you forget about it.

 

[Carmoney]

Unfortunately, the stock internal trigger stops are never long enough to actually do much. You can make one from a piece of drill rod and fit it correctly, but it's easy to bend or break the small stud behind the rebound slide if you're not careful. You also never really know the fit is correct until the sideplate is replaced, so it's a time-consuming process.

The other thing to consider is that there are two different release points for SA and DA modes. If the trigger stop is adjusted for one, it will not have any impact on the other. In fact, if the trigger stop is correctly set for DA shooting, it will actually prevent the gun from functioning in SA mode.

 

[OFT]

Originally posted by john traveler:
The inside-the-trigger guard stops were only used on K frame target models (M14, M15, M16, M17, M18. M18) and were discontinued in the late 1970s because of a number of incidents of them coming loose and preventing firing in law enforcement guns. Not a good thing.

The N-frame inside-the-rebound slide spring trigger stop has to be fitted, but once done, you forget about it.

Don't forget the model 19, John.

 

[Spotteddog]

What Carmoney said.
The set screw on the rear of the trigger, was a response to numerous failures on the earlier integral trigger stops machined to fit into the frames. The exterior mounting, at least allows checking/adjustment without a mini-tear down. The use of the appropriate Loctite product on them, will usually hold them nicely.

 

[magnum12pm]

I have the 686 SSR, it seems to have a pin inserted into the trigger over travel stop hole on the rear of the trigger, its apparently not threaded. How do you adjust this type of setup?

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by Carmoney:
Unfortunately, the stock internal trigger stops are never long enough to actually do much.

Bullseye. The trigger is so close to the rear of the trigger guard when the hammer falls anyway, adding the rod stop probably makes a difference of MAYBE .020" in rear pull travel if that. In the model 66's, some models come with them and some don't. No rational reason to it, but they really don't do anything.

WARNING: look closely at the trigger and cock the hammer for SA shot: the trigger MUST be free to travel rearward a little farther than the position where it releases the hammer in the SA pull. If you adjust the trigger stop rod length so it "just" lets the hammer fall in SA pull, the hammer sear and trigger nose will bind when you cock the hammer for an SA shot. I refuse to admit how I learned that.....

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by magnum12pm:
I have the 686 SSR, it seems to have a pin inserted into the trigger over travel stop hole on the rear of the trigger, its apparently not threaded. How do you adjust this type of setup?

If you want to learn from my mistake, you won't.....

 

[magnum12pm]

I get the point

Originally posted by bountyhunter:

Originally posted by magnum12pm:
I have the 686 SSR, it seems to have a pin inserted into the trigger over travel stop hole on the rear of the trigger, its apparently not threaded. How do you adjust this type of setup?

If you want to learn from my mistake, you won't.....

 

[epj]

All my Smiths have the pin type stop, some from the factory, some installed by me. My new 686, purchased this year, has this type stop installed by the factory.

 

[ol timer]

Originally posted by john traveler:
S&W for many years now has been using trigger stops on their N frame models. It's a piece of rod inside the rebound slide spring. You can make your own easily from brazing or welding rod. Just measure, fit, and cut to size to allow the trigger to just release from a cocked hammer.

What are the dimensions for K,L and N frame rebound slide pins? Don't need one for J as I cannot bring myself to use an overtravel stop on a carry weapon. (YMMV of course, but the OP is asking for opinion.) Do you take a depth reading inside the rebound slide to the bottom of the notch and work down or are there set demensions for each frame size?

Thanks,
ot

 

[epj]

You cut them down a thousandth at a time until the trigger will just release the sear. Been a while since I installed one, but something like .715" OAL seems to come to me. Each needs to be individually fitted to be effective. The pin that came from the factory in my 25-2 was so short that it just rattled around in the housing. So much for the hand fitting of the early 70's.

 

[S/W - Lifer]

A stop may not be a bad idea on a target gun but I'd be careful on a defensive weapon. Our armorer took them out of all issued Model 19s and 66s, claiming they could jam the gun.

I wanted to carry my 66 so he had to inspect it. He checked my trigger stop and upon removing the screw it fell out in two pieces.

He made his point. Just FYI.

 

[epj]

Originally posted by S/W - Lifer:
A stop may not be a bad idea on a target gun but I'd be careful on a defensive weapon. Our armorer took them out of all issued Model 19s and 66s, claiming they could jam the gun.

I wanted to carry my 66 so he had to inspect it. He checked my trigger stop and upon removing the screw it fell out in two pieces.

He made his point. Just FYI.

The target sighted K frames had a different style stop from the ones being discussed here. The "N frame style" stop is a fitted pin in the rebound slide that cannot bind the gun up. The K's had a rotating cam under the trigger that apparently could get out of adjustment, though none of mine ever have.

 

[S/W - Lifer]

Got it epj. I just tossed that information out as FYI as it did happen to my personal gun.

Thanks,

S/W - Lifer