Optics Plates

[Michaelp57]

Hey guys. I got a Sig Romeo 1 Pro to mount on my m&p 10mm, but I am struggling to find an optics plate that fits it. I ordered a plate from CH precision and they sent me a plate for a leupold delta point pro which is the same shape, but doesn't have the right size recoil lugs to fit the Romeo 1 Pro. Anybody have any suggestions on another place to get one of these plates?

 

[SoCalDep]

The Sig Romeo 1Pro and Leupold DeltaPoint Pro have the same "footprint", but if I remember correctly, the guy I know who used a R1P on their M&P had to grind/file off some of the recoil lugs to make it work.

Also, S&W has included two types of DPP plates with their optic-ready slides (one or the other). The plastic type 6 plate sits lower while the metal 6A plate sits higher and requires the use of the original cover plate screws along with the Leupold DPP screws. I'm not sure how much a difference each plate makes with the fit of the R1P, but I'd be interested to hear the answer on a forum dedicated to S&W pistols.

I don't know about other gun owners, but Google isn't my friend and I'd rather find the answer for this by searching this forum, so if the answer isn't here already, then I think finding it here is good. If someone knows the answer, I'd rather they respond with it than a suggestion to search an extreme anti-gun platform.

 

[9mmPatriot]

I use OuterImpact.com

 

[SoCalDep]

I use OuterImpact.com

I searched the site but couldn't find anything for a CORE/Optic-Ready model, and I believe the 10mm is an optic ready M&P.

 

[9mmPatriot]

D'Oh!
I completely missed that.

 

[Michaelp57]

It appears it was just a mis pull off the shelf. C&H issending me an r1p. Let's hope it just works, but it doesn't seem like many people even try to mount sig optics on anything but glocks or sigs. Maybe theres a reason for that.

 

[SoCalDep]

It appears it was just a mis pull off the shelf. C&H issending me an r1p. Let's hope it just works, but it doesn't seem like many people even try to mount sig optics on anything but glocks or sigs. Maybe theres a reason for that.

Nice that you're getting the correct plate. Certainly let us know how it works out. I've seen a lot of the Sig optics in classes and apart from a few random cases of them not wanting to wake up without a little "encouragement", they seem to work very well.

This is not to say they are bad... the issues are rare and I've seen just as many with other optics.

When you mount, be sure to degrease all interacting components (the optic pocket in the slide, the threaded holes, the screws, make sure there isn't oil on the plate, etc.).

Stay away from Vibratite and go with Loctite 242 or even better is 243 (oil resistant but still a bit messy) or my preference which is 248. It's a paste and is easy to put enough where you want without using too much and getting everywhere.

Torque to the proper specs for the optic and slide (I have a LOT of experience with 9mms but zero with 10mms so grain of salt and all...) which should be 15 in/lbs for the S&W slide and S&W factory screws.

I use alcohol pads to degrease, and then apply paint from an oil-based paint pen to the used alcohol-pad wrapper. I use a toothpick to make indicator marks on the screws/optic body so I can see if they come loose. I do the toothpick thing because I've seen too many instances of the paint pens deciding to excrete a large amount of paint in the wrong place and cleaning paint from the emitter area of an optic just sucks.

 

[pazzo]

Good advice from SoCalDep.

I use a fine tip sharpie for the witness marks of the screws to the RD body.
They come off easily with a little alcohol if I need to remove the sight and redo.

 

[Michaelp57]

Nice that you're getting the correct plate. Certainly let us know how it works out. I've seen a lot of the Sig optics in classes and apart from a few random cases of them not wanting to wake up without a little "encouragement", they seem to work very well.

This is not to say they are bad... the issues are rare and I've seen just as many with other optics.

When you mount, be sure to degrease all interacting components (the optic pocket in the slide, the threaded holes, the screws, make sure there isn't oil on the plate, etc.).

Stay away from Vibratite and go with Loctite 242 or even better is 243 (oil resistant but still a bit messy) or my preference which is 248. It's a paste and is easy to put enough where you want without using too much and getting everywhere.

Torque to the proper specs for the optic and slide (I have a LOT of experience with 9mms but zero with 10mms so grain of salt and all...) which should be 15 in/lbs for the S&W slide and S&W factory screws.

I use alcohol pads to degrease, and then apply paint from an oil-based paint pen to the used alcohol-pad wrapper. I use a toothpick to make indicator marks on the screws/optic body so I can see if they come loose. I do the toothpick thing because I've seen too many instances of the paint pens deciding to excrete a large amount of paint in the wrong place and cleaning paint from the emitter area of an optic just sucks.

Thank you for the advice. Im still pretty damn new to handgun optics. The whole thing is a little weird and tedious to me so hopefully it's worth it in the end. My new plate came in today. I havent been home to check it out yet, but I should have results in the next hour and a half or so. I will let you guys know how this goes.

 

[Rlg#17]

We have been running everything from a Burris ff3 to a trijicon rmr on various pistols the last couple of years. Shield on a compact, and Holosun (don’t laugh, they work well!) on our house guns.

Took an MOS operator course at the GLOCK factory. Several true operators, AF PJ’s, wife and I and a couple of larping types with mismatched equipment and such. We used nato spec as did the pj’s. Our optics stayed on, except for those guys. Instructor forthe class used clear fingernail polish on the threads of those screws after finding them on the floor. This was the first day, right before lunch, probably 200 rounds into the course.
Came back after the lunch break and another 900 rounds in the class and their optics held tight the rest of the class.

Came home and redid allah our guns with clear fingernail polish and witness marks so you can see if they loosen or not and 15”lbs of torque. Both of our guns now have over 6000 rounds thru them and zero issues with loosening.

Let us know how it works out for you.

Regards,
Rick Gibbs

 

[Michaelp57]

Unfortunately, the new plate also came with a new issue. On the one that I was originally sent, the recoil lugs were too big so the optic sat on top of it. On the new one there are no recoil lugs. On a .22 I wouldnt be worried with just the screws holding the thing in place, but on the 10mm idk how much I trust that. The optic fits onto the plate perfect, but I dont know if I trust it. Better if I just save the romeo 1 pro for a different gun that I dont have to seek out an optic mounting plate? What do you guys think?

 

[mscampbell2734]

I used a CH plate to mount my Sig R1P on a Smith MP Pro CORE 9mm. It's been good for 1200 rounds.

For some strange reason the plate would not line up with the steel shroud. It would line up with just the optic, just the shroud, but not the two together.

Anyway since it IS a very snug fit in the "pocket" so to speak I think you'd be good.

 

[Saudade]

If the sights sits snug in the cutout, I wouldn’t worry about it. Just make sure the r1p is pushed up against the forward ledge of the cutout. The screws clamp it to the slide vertically and laterally. The longitudinal shear force is absorbed by the slide.

Just like mounting something on a pic rail.