Outdoor deck ‘experts’ step in...

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The Big D

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...please.

Building an outdoor deck and definitely am using composite decking...Trex, TimberTech, or similar.

Looking for advice on what decking material you like. Old, much smaller deck built circa 2006 used 'original' Trex decking that soon discolored and is very susceptible to all kinds of stains...the non-intentional stains from weather, bird poop, spilled drinks, etc.

It is still solid and stable, but that deck is being expanded from approximately 100 square feet to 330 square feet.

It is approximately 12' inches above ground, and the supporting structure is being built as we speak. Weather brought that work to a stop today.

Thanks, in advance, for any/all input or advice.

Be safe...be well.
 
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That's what it was...

...a patio. Eighteen inch decorative pavers with 6 inches of grass between each of them. About 150 square feet.

Hard to use when ground is wet and got tired of trimming edges every time i mowed. :eek: Plus, could not always properly situate chair when orienting toward the sun. For a proper tan, of course.

Be safe...be well.

bigwheelzip said:
Maybe it's just the Italian in me, but a "deck" 12 inches off the ground, is a masonry patio.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
I'm not a fan of Trex. Possibly it has changed over the years but when it first came out it was a little thicker than PT and I just didn't care for the profile. I like decking that is flat and has almost square edges. I also don't care for the concealed fastener style that uses a plastic clip that goes into a slot in the decking edge. Should a middle piece of decking ever need to be replaced its a bear of a job.

My lumber yard used to sell a decking called Latitudes but I think they no longer carry it. Not sure why.

I prefer stainless steel star drive screws for installation. A little trick that I learned. I took a 12" speed square and measured in from the edge 3/4" (half the thickness of the joists) and spaced two drilled holes so they fell 1" to 3/4" in from each edge of a 5 1/2" deck board. As I install each board, I use a spacer for whatever gap I am wanting between boards and then place the speed square on the board edge. Slide it over each joist so the leading edge lines up with the joist edge. Since my two drilled holes are 3/4" from the edge, it centers the hole in the center of the joist. I pilot two holes and then slide the speed square away and install my two screws. The result is perfectly aligned screws in the center of each joist and evenly spaced in from each edge.
 
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Good info...

...thank you. Definitely NO to the hidden fasteners.

Def YES to stainless screws. Removed stainless steel screws from the 'old' deck now 14 years old. Screws look like they are brand new...no exaggeration. These were the ones with very small square drive heads. They worked beautifully and hope to use same type this build.

Be safe...be well.

JSR III said:
I'm not a fan of Trex. Possibly it has changed over the years but when it first came out it was a little thicker than PT and I just didn't care for the profile. I like decking that is flat and has almost square edges. I also don't care for the concealed fastener style that uses a plastic clip that goes into a slot in the decking edge. Should a middle piece of decking ever need to be replaced its a bear of a job.

My lumber yard used to sell a decking called Latitudes but I think they no longer carry it. Not sure why.

I prefer stainless steel star drive screws for installation. A little trick that I learned. I took a 12" speed square and measured in from the edge 3/4" (half the thickness of the joists) and spaced two drilled holes so they fell 1" to 3/4" in from each edge of a 5 1/2" deck board. As I install each board, I use a spacer for whatever gap I am wanting between boards and then place the speed square on the board edge. Slide it over each joist so the leading edge lines up with the joist edge. Since my two drilled holes are 3/4" from the edge, it centers the hole in the center of the joist. I pilot two holes and then slide the speed square away and install my two screws. The result is perfectly aligned screws in the center of each joist and evenly spaced in from each edge.
Click to expand...
 
The main thing is to have a GOOD quality foundation for the material.
Cement blocks or cement forms w/rebar is a must or cement with "J" bolts to tie into the 2x6 or 2x8 framing boards that will hold the joist.

Use treated or bug resistant wood or materials. Nothing worse than termites or carpenter ants to ruin a foundation.

Wood can be sanded, washed down and all types of sealers applied.
I am not up on the new "Poly" materials but they do need the correct type screws or anchor system to help with their warranty.

Good luck.
 
I did a lot of building when I was young. Decks are a specialty item. Steep learning curve. I'd do a lot of research first, must be a lot of DYI stuff on you tube etc. Just my .02. Good luck with your project.
 
I built a 2-level deck (10x10 + 8x8) back in 1991 using treated wood 2x6s and the twisted deck nails. It's still as good as it was then. Usually at least every two years I scrub it well and apply a coat of Thompson's Water Seal. Not a big deal. I did that just last week.
 
I have two Trex decks. The older one is susceptible to UV damage. They have fixed that. The old one is top screwed and I hate it because very difficult to control screw head depth so you don't damage the surface and provide entry to moisture. Also, over time the decking seems to have shrunk a tad, leaving the screw heads slightly proud which is a PITA with the snow shovel. The newer deck is installed with the hidden STAINLESS STEEL fasteners. Plastic? OMG!
 
Since this is a gun forum you can probably appreciate a belt fed gun versus a single shot gun. They have belt feed screw guns with a long shaft that you use while standing up and you place the back of the gun into your stomach. I heard if you buy the belted screws some places will loan you the gun for free and it has an adjustable clutch so you sink the screws at the optimum depth. You can drive over a hundred screws in the amount of time you could only do 15 or 20 the conventional way and not have a sore back or knees. When I was younger I didn't mind working bent over on my knees all day but definitely not any more. Trex is all I've ever used and had pretty good luck with it and I think it is better than it use to be.
 
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I used Trex, framed 12" on center and they look as good as the day that I put them down. IIRC, they are about 17-18 years old. Mine have not shrunk.
I used small-headed TORX deck screws, did not pre-drill and after screwing them in, they created a little lump which I pounded down with a hammer and the screw holes virtually disappeared. You can still see them but you have to look for them, they aren't obvious.

What's nice about Trex is that it does not get slippery when wet, we had a secondary deck around a pool and it worked well with all of the splashing.

The only negative is that it can get too hot to walk barefoot on when it's been in the direct sun (think sand at the beach) and this is the Winchester Gray color.

It's maintenance-free and I appreciate that.
 
in 2016 replaced our treated lumber deck...reviewed feed back on several types of material......only one stood out from the rest....AZEK....its more expensive that the other materials..but has proven to be maintenance free....

the Azek material was installed over 2x8 floor joist @12"o/c.....

its the last time i will need to replace our deck.....
 
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