[PICS] Titanium cylinder on 442

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I was inspired by recent threads about the cylinder swap...decided to do my own with pictures. The barrel and cylinder gap seem fine. I will test fire it tomorrow. I do not have a small scale. Does anybody know how much weight this shaves off? I also switched to a Hogue Monogrip.

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Here is the new titanium cylinder:
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Pulling off the old cylinder:
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Here is the new titanium cylinder...notice, I also changed the stock grips to a Hogue Monogrip.
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:cheers:
 
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nice, what did the cylinder cost ya if you dont mind me askin?

It was about $61.00 from Numrich Gun Parts. Bought it online on Friday night...was waiting for me when I got home from work today. Everything looks and feels great. I will punch paper with it tomorrow tp be sure that function is 100%.

It is not the most significant weight difference, but it is noticeable.
 
You just trying to save weight? I like the two-tone look. Is that screwdriver set a hollow-ground bit set? I've been looking for "the right" tools, but on Midway the different S&W bit sets don't mention being hollow-ground. Thanks...
 
You just trying to save weight? I like the two-tone look. Is that screwdriver set a hollow-ground bit set? I've been looking for "the right" tools, but on Midway the different S&W bit sets don't mention being hollow-ground. Thanks...

I am not familiar with the term "hollow-ground," so the only thing I know to do is look at the box. It doesn't say anything about hollow-ground. Hope this helps.

Now that you mention it...the two tone look is not bad.
 
I am not familiar with the term "hollow-ground," so the only thing I know to do is look at the box. It doesn't say anything about hollow-ground. Hope this helps.

Instead of the sides contact the screw being tapered like a chisel, they are ground so that they are parallel to each other towards the tip. This way you get move contact service on the screw which help to reduce the chance of the screwdriver slipping and marring the screw.
 
Standard screw driver is make with a taper finish " taper from big to thin on the end, hollow ground look like a scoop of ice cream was tooken off eack side and the blade is the same thickest all the way down to end. Sorry for the typing - little doped up right now. Hope this helps :D .
 
I didn't mean to hijack your thread, friend :/ Sorry about that...you'll have to tell us how the Ti cylinder works out for ya :)
 
Why doesnt S&W just make one of these? They would sell like hotcakes! You just cut off almost 3 Oz. ! That is significant! and you will notice the difference in pocket carry.(or any carry for that matter)!
P.S. we have twins!

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If anyone wants a Ti cyl. shoot me a PM. I bought too many...............Ti cyl. is GONE.
 
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Why do I have this sudden urge to put my 642 on a diet?

It is well worth it! IMO. By just changing the cylinder you lose almost 2 ozs. That is the weight of (5) .38 cartridges. So basically it would be like carrying your 642 with no ammo in it. Then change to the bantam grips and lose another ounce over Uncle Mikes.
 
Triplets!

Here is my 642 titanium cylinder. I also replace the MIM trigger and hammer with forged parts. The scandium models have titanium pivot pins but they are chambered for .357 mag. The 642 with titanium cylinder is .38 plus P so the stock frame pins should be OK
 

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Ok, as soon as I saw those pic's, I ordered a ti cylinder for my 442.
How hard is it to change?
Do I need special tools?
I've done the lock removal surgery, and the cylinder swap appears to be less invasive than that. Hopefully a novice, like myself, can do it too. Please fill me in.
 
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Ti cylinder change

It is pretty easy. You only need to remove the yoke screw which is the foremost screw on the right side of the frame. Then when you open the cylinder you can slide the yoke and cylinder off the front of the frame. I used the existing ejector rod and ratchet as it was already fitted to the gun. The ejector rod is left hand thread and you need to be careful not to damage it when unscrewing it. Use a gripping tool with jaws padded with leather, wood, or brass. Or better yet buy an ejector rod tool from Brownells ($22.00) which is made for the purpose. I used the vise portion of a plumbers pipe flaring tool padded with rubber to remove mine, but ordered the Brownells tool for next time.
 
It is pretty easy. You only need to remove the yoke screw which is the foremost screw on the right side of the frame. Then when you open the cylinder you can slide the yoke and cylinder off the front of the frame. I used the existing ejector rod and ratchet as it was already fitted to the gun. The ejector rod is left hand thread and you need to be careful not to damage it when unscrewing it. Use a gripping tool with jaws padded with leather, wood, or brass. Or better yet buy an ejector rod tool from Brownells ($22.00) which is made for the purpose. I used the vise portion of a plumbers pipe flaring tool padded with rubber to remove mine, but ordered the Brownells tool for next time.

Thanks Capn.

As soon as I get mine in, I'll be following your instructions.

I like the contrast of the titanium with the black finish of the frame. Also, the silver scratch, that runs the perimeter of the black cylinder, drives me nuts.

The weight difference will be an added bonus, as I pocket carry.
 
442 Titanium

Oh also before you unscrew the ejector rod place empty cartridge cases in the cylinder. This prevents damaging the ejector star and rod from the torque of unscrewing. Post pictures when you are done!
 
With all the sad stories I've read about heavily used Ti cylinder cracking and/or otherwise biting the dust, I went the other way. Put a stainless steel cylinder in my 296 .44 Spl for practice and use the ti for serious social carry.
 
Here is my 642 titanium cylinder. I also replace the MIM trigger and hammer with forged parts. The scandium models have titanium pivot pins but they are chambered for .357 mag. The 642 with titanium cylinder is .38 plus P so the stock frame pins should be OK

That looks familiar. How do those Ahrends feel? They sure are light, almost a full ounce less than the Uncle Mike's. Weighing different grips on a digital scale, the results were interesting.

Uncle Mike's boot grip - 2.1 oz.
PGS Hideout grip - 2.0 oz.
S&W logo boot grip 1.7 oz.
Ahrends R.B. smooth 1.2 oz.

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Ok, as soon as I saw those pic's, I ordered a ti cylinder for my 442.
How hard is it to change?

Do I need special tools?
I've done the lock removal surgery, and the cylinder swap appears to be less invasive than that. Hopefully a novice, like myself, can do it too. Please fill me in.

Mine wasn't a simple swap. It required trimming back the yoke and fitting the headspacing and barrel/cylinder gap. Forum member tomcatt51 was heplful with his wisdom in replying to the following thread:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/177346-questions-fitting-ti-cylinder-m442-2-a.html
 
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