Hey Capn,
Where did you find the forged parts?
What were the Costs?
Thanks again, I'll upload pic's when the surgery is complete.
Greg
[PICS] Titanium cylinder on 442
- Thread starter NCBeagle
- Start date
Hey Capn,
Where did you find the forged parts?
What were the Costs?
Thanks again, I'll upload pic's when the surgery is complete.
Greg
I found the old style forged parts at Brownells. They still stock the trigger, but unfortunately they no longer stock the non-MIM hammer and I don't know another source. The trigger is part # 940-225-950. The trigger costs $43.28. It is grooved and 5/16" wide so it is not the best trigger for a combat model. If you type in the number on their website it will show you a good picture of it.
OP
Very nice AllGlock. Very nice.
My initial range trip was a FAIL. The timing was off because the hammer would not fall every time. So, I used a file to remove metal from the ratchet and things were fine. I put about 100 rounds down range into a hole the size if my hand (not bad for a snub)
My initial range trip was a FAIL. The timing was off because the hammer would not fall every time. So, I used a file to remove metal from the ratchet and things were fine. I put about 100 rounds down range into a hole the size if my hand (not bad for a snub)
capnkirk, there's a forged trigger that's a smooth combat about .330" wide or you can grind and polish the grooves out of yours. Been there, done that. New forged parts are available on Gunbroker from MagnumMark. Search for his auctions by that name or the part name. Parts are available, don't give up. I have other sources also.
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OP
I should have just done that, but decided to fit the new ratchet myself. It wasn't too difficult. I just cut the ratchet profiles to look the same as the old ratchet.
ol timer
Member
Yes, they are avaiable if you know where to look, or sometimes get lucky.
Never being a fan of MIM parts, I dropped a flash chromed hammer and trigger in my M442 and the matte trigger looked real slick with the Ti cylinder, also threw on a forged blue thumb piece.
Then I decided this particular gun would get a pass on MIM, since it's purpose is to shave as much weight as possible. Replacing hollow MIM parts with heavier forged parts is counterproductive, IMO. Yes, it's only a matter of grams, but a few here and a few there add up. Even the factory practices this, substituting a Ti center pin for steel and shaving the already lightweight frame a little in non-critical areas.
YMMV
OLDMAN0090
US Veteran
Looks good. Did you have any change in the cylinder gap? What was the gap after the cylinder change?
442 pivot pin material
Most of the titanium cylinder/aluminum frame S&W's have titanium pivot pins in the frame. What material are the pivot pins in the 442 made of? I have heard they are aluminum. It seems incomprehensible that S&W would use aluminum for the pivot pins, yet the ones on mine do not attract a magnet. Now some types of stainless steel also do not attract a magnet. Does anyone here know what type of metal is used for the 442 pivot pins? Durability issues could potentially arise when a titanium cylinder is installed if the pins are aluminum as the lighter weight would increase recoil stress on the pivot pins. The factory titanium pins are used on scandium/aluminum models with titanium cylinders for increased durability. But these are chambered in .357. The 442 in .38 special may not need the titanium pins. Thoughts?
Most of the titanium cylinder/aluminum frame S&W's have titanium pivot pins in the frame. What material are the pivot pins in the 442 made of? I have heard they are aluminum. It seems incomprehensible that S&W would use aluminum for the pivot pins, yet the ones on mine do not attract a magnet. Now some types of stainless steel also do not attract a magnet. Does anyone here know what type of metal is used for the 442 pivot pins? Durability issues could potentially arise when a titanium cylinder is installed if the pins are aluminum as the lighter weight would increase recoil stress on the pivot pins. The factory titanium pins are used on scandium/aluminum models with titanium cylinders for increased durability. But these are chambered in .357. The 442 in .38 special may not need the titanium pins. Thoughts?
OP
The gap is .005. That was a good fit. I had to take some metal off of the ratchet. In retrospect, I should have just used the original ratchet...but I decided to file down the new ratchet to match the profile of the original. It was a learning experience if nothing else. Glad that I did it. The gun weighed in at about 12 oz., maybe a tad lighter. I need an accurate scale.
OP
That is an interesting question...I assume that they are aluminum. I don't think that it would be easy or worthwhile to mate any other material to the aluminum frame. As for durability...we"ll see how it goes.
I just got the Ti cylinder in today. (takes more than 2 weeks to deliver to Texas.)
I put it on just like your instructions Capn... easy as pie.
Thanks for the help.
The feel is completely different, and I like the contrast of the Ti on black...sweet.
I've posted the pic's...enjoy.
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Josh M.
Member
Well, my 642 Airweight TI conversion didn't go as smoothly.
The cylinder I got from Numrich is defective.
The hole that the yolk barrel and ejector run through is not square to the cylinder...ie - there is a large amount of run-out when the cylinder rotates.
I'm bummed, I don't want to order another just to find more of the same. Has anybody else had quality issues with these Numrich parts...any chance they are seconds?
BTW - I am a gunsmith, not that it makes me an expert on everything, but I can tell the difference between a bad part and a bent rod. - JM.
The cylinder I got from Numrich is defective.
The hole that the yolk barrel and ejector run through is not square to the cylinder...ie - there is a large amount of run-out when the cylinder rotates.
I'm bummed, I don't want to order another just to find more of the same. Has anybody else had quality issues with these Numrich parts...any chance they are seconds?
BTW - I am a gunsmith, not that it makes me an expert on everything, but I can tell the difference between a bad part and a bent rod. - JM.
OP
Shoots great...now. I had to sculpt the ratchets a bit to correct timing. Afterward, I realized that I could have just used the old ratchet with the new cylinder.
I thought they might be seconds, as the finish on them is random. They have alot of "handling" marks on them. Thats about all I noticed. I did two conversions, and they both shoot fine....
All you can do is call & send back for replacement confirming shipping is on them.
Good to know. I actually used the old ratchet/star, and the timing appears to be perfect. I'll have no qualms shooting it at the range. I'll report when I do.
I think they're new:
There was no scratch around the perimeter where the cylinder rotates...not until I dry fired it. Also, there are no powder rings from shooting, where the cylinder holes line up w/ the barrel.
The think finish is just proned to scratch and ding. I've noticed small scratches/marks from just cycling/dry firing. But I think it looks better than the silver scratch that the black stainless cylinder has.
I carried it in my pocket today, and it doesn't tug at my belt nearly as bad as it did before. The weight loss is definately noticeable.
RychenCop
Member
looks great...post a range report this weekend
