Please help Identifying My Revolver

[canker123]

Hello all,

I was gifted this revolver from a buddy who said it belonged to his grandfather. I know next to nothing about guns, but took some pictures of some numbers on it. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

 

[toddimusnimski]

.38 Special Military and Police, likely shipped in 1947. Square butt frame with aftermarket stocks. In 1957 the company added Model 10 to the description. And they're still making them!

Welcome to the Forum!

Todd

 

[canker123]

.38 Special Military and Police, likely shipped in 1947. Square butt frame with aftermarket stocks. In 1957 the company added Model 10 to the description. And they're still making them!

Welcome to the Forum!

Todd

Thank you very much, Todd!

 

[canker123]

Would you kind folks be able to tell me what kind of ammo I can shoot out of this? Does it need to be brand specific? And only .38 special ammo?

 

[Rubone]

Nice gift! I have one just like it. And you can shoot any brand .38 Special ammo out of it.

 

[JP@AK]

It is a postwar .38 M&P that very likely left the factory in February 1948. There were other square butt 2" units produced in that same serial range.

Any factory loaded .38 Special cartridges will be fine in that revolver, so long as it is in safe operating condition.

 

[canker123]

Much obliged, friends! Sending it to an ultrasonic this afternoon to a nice deep cleaning.

 

[Matt_X]

Much obliged, friends! Sending it to an ultrasonic this afternoon to a nice deep cleaning.

Are you working with someone who has familiarity with S&W revolvers?

 

[canker123]

Are you working with someone who has familiarity with S&W revolvers?

It is a local gunshop here in PHX, should I be wary? Any reccomendations?

 

[Matt_X]

It is a local gunshop here in PHX, should I be wary? Any reccomendations?

I asked because you wrote this is all new to you, I thought it would be good to check if you were doing this yourself or had someone with some experience helping.

I have nothing against ultrasonic cleaning, and can understand why some might automatically do that even though I would not.* Regardless it will need to have sideplate removed to check on the condition and lightly relube. That does require knowing how or it will get buggered up. Its not hard to do but you don't want someone prying it.

As far the name goes, the M&P is a mid sized frame with fixed sights. S before the number tells us that it has an improved hammer block. It's function is to prevent the hammer from moving forward when trigger is forward - basically to help make it safe from firing if dropped and the hammer spur hits the ground.

*We see rust on the outside. I'd first open it up and see what the condition is inside, then decide what to do. Nothing wrong with cleaning first, then assessing. The deep cleaning won't remove the rust, and don't want to use a rust removing chemical. Remove that manually and perhaps touch up the bluing, or just keep it clean and lightly oiled.

 

[Matt_X]

.38 Special cartridges
I would suggest any standard brand .38 Spl not marked +P
When you look at .38 Spl for sale you will find a wide choice of bullets. The standard at the time of manufacture would have been 158 grain lead round nose. (LRN)
Full metal jacket or total metal jacket is fine too, as is a flat point or semi-wadcutters.
A wadcutter is a flat across the full diameter and is usually more expensive as its a target shooters round useful for punching nice clean large hole in paper (for a slight edge in scoring higher).
You can use slighty lighter bullets for slightly less recoil or if they happened to be available for less money. As a beginner I don't think there is enough of a difference for you to notice or care. Bullets around 130 grains are common.

When you go to shoot, its best to have someone experienced, but if not here's what I'd suggest.
Go over basic operation of the revolver with the gunstore people. How to load and unload, how to safely decock the gun from single action, and basic cleaning (inside the barrel and cylinder bores, and the ejector).

Learn the 4 fundamental safety rules currently promologated.
Wear ear protection.
Know the sight picture and bring a reasonable size target for the distance you will shoot.
Use a stance(s) that is comfortable for you. I would start with a two handed Weaver type or isoscolese stance.
Some people are really opposed to learning single action, but I disagree with that. Its useful for focusing on sight picture and other fundementals. Double action should be learned, but it is another skill to add on. Furthermore, your revolver has the 'long action' hammer.

The spur of that hammer somewhat obscures the rear sight. So I suggest shooting single action until you feel confident with the natural point of aim and the site picture. Then when shooting double action you will see the site picture briefly as the hammer moves back.

The reason for this it seems is that at the time, single action was for aimed shots and double action was for situations with limited time and close distance.