pondering refinishing a breaktop double action

brazosdave

US Veteran
Joined
Jun 15, 2014
Messages
50
Reaction score
21
Location
Crockett, TX
hey ya'll, I have a breaktop .38 that has lost most of it's blueing, and that someone crudely scratched their initials in years ago. I am thinking about refinishing it, it's a great shooter. Any one have any thoughts about a quick rust blue using Birchwood Casey Plum Brown as described by Dave Ciccione in "Gunsmithing the Guns of the Old West"? I also have the quick standard BC perma blue cold blue. Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
 
Register to hide this ad
To be honest, it is pretty easy to use a slow rust bluing on any revolver. I would strip remaining finish with Naval Jelly Rust Remover, then sand surfaces moving finally to 400 grit.

I would use Classic American Rust Bluing solution to do the job. You will either need high humidity or construct a rusting box for your parts. Follow the instructions that comes with the rust bluing solution, which includes boiling the parts to turn the brown coloration to blue after every rusting session. Do not be suprised if you need to repeat the process 6 to 10 times to get a uniform deep blue/black finish.

Don't blue the hammer or trigger, but rather leave in whatever is their current condition. Also, cold bluing of any type is not very durable and will disappear rather quickly with use.

The last one I did was a 32-20 shooter and it improved the appearance. I also added a set of modified square butt stocks that help at the range.
 

Attachments

  • 100109900-8-L.jpg
    100109900-8-L.jpg
    78.1 KB · Views: 61
  • 100109900-9-L.jpg
    100109900-9-L.jpg
    101.7 KB · Views: 64
  • 100109900-11-L.jpg
    100109900-11-L.jpg
    79 KB · Views: 53
  • P2180003.jpg
    P2180003.jpg
    118.4 KB · Views: 74
  • 3220 Revolver.jpg
    3220 Revolver.jpg
    92.1 KB · Views: 60
I disagree on the cold bluing. It depends on what type you use. I use Brownells Oxypho bluing. It works great and last as long as hot bluing. But any bluing job is only as good as the metal prep. Degreasing is the key. The metal has to have all of the oil and contaminants out. I will spend 20 hours on metal prep and cleaning. If you are not willing to spend the time then you will get a mediocre job.
 
There is a video on YouTube showing how to use the Brownell's rust blue. For an old gun with no collector value, it should make a fun project. No problem about the rusting box with a handgun. You can easily find some large plastic food container with a snap-on lid to use for that purpose.
 
I disagree on the cold bluing. It depends on what type you use. I use Brownells Oxypho bluing.

I have 2 bottles of that, plus have Brownells Dicropan as well and they simply do not wear like permanent bluing. The also tend to turn brown over the years. I have used about every type of instant bluing available and agree that Oxpho and Dicropan are by far the best, but my experience is that they just not good enough for a service firearm.
 
I have used Blue wonder kits with very good success but as others have said metal prep is key BC bluing has never gave me good results but it is about the cheapest but I do like their plum brown it works very good.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top