Poor Man's Action Job On M60

[ACP230]

I bought an M60 about a year and a half ago.
Since then I've been attempting to do a "poor man's action job" on it by dry firing it.
I haven't done it daily, or even weekly, but I suspect the gun has been dry snapped around 1,000 times (at least) by now.

Single action might have slicked up a bit, but DA is still heavy and somewhat hard.
How long should I give it before looking for a smith who can do a more expensive action job?

 

[ACP230]

I bought an M60 about a year and a half ago.
Since then I've been attempting to do a "poor man's action job" on it by dry firing it.
I haven't done it daily, or even weekly, but I suspect the gun has been dry snapped around 1,000 times (at least) by now.

Single action might have slicked up a bit, but DA is still heavy and somewhat hard.
How long should I give it before looking for a smith who can do a more expensive action job?

 

[Centenniel]

Another rather inexpensive fix is a J Frame spring kit from Wilson's Combat. One can make a lot of difference and it is really easy to install.

 

[David Sinko]

I would not compromise the mainspring strength of a J Frame. My 60-7 and 940 will fire all manner of commercial primers and that is most important in a J Frame. Some of the spring kits may give unreliable ignition with Winchester or CCI primers. I save wear and tear on my good revolvers by dry firing with the DA autos. I have come to the conclusion that the DA autos exist only to be beaten to death in dry fire so that the better revolvers may live.

Dave Sinko

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by ACP230:

Single action might have slicked up a bit, but DA is still heavy and somewhat hard.

If you polishe the bottom and left hand side of the rebound slide and the mating frame surfaces, the DA pull will get much smoother. It will feel a lot lighter because of that.

 

[ACP230]

This is going to be a defense gun, so I don't want to change springs.
I think I'll get it out and snap it some more while on the board.

 

[magnum12pm]

I have a M60 Lady Smith. If you polish the rebound slide and slide frame area, not removing metal but just smoothing the area. You can reduce the rebound spring a pound or two, this by the way does not affect reliablity at all. You will get a more enjoyable snubby. I have used the reduced power main spring, however I don't recommend it in defensive weapon. Mine is totally reliable but I reload, with only federal primers, which are softer. If you don't change the mainspring you can still get a double action pull in neiborhood of a smooth 10 pound pull.

Originally posted by ACP230:
This is going to be a defense gun, so I don't want to change springs.
I think I'll get it out and snap it some more while on the board.

 

[tomcatt51]

I just worked on a 36 and a 60. The 60 he wanted smoother/lighter but 100% with any ammo and plenty adequate trigger return. Ended up just under 10 lbs DA with a stock mainspring. Decent, smooth, but no bragging rights. The other (no dash 36) was for PPC BUG (back up gun) matches, bobbed hammer, Federal primed reloads only. Ended up 8 lbs DA and really sweet. About 60% reliable with Winchester primers (for reference). Not quite a 5 1/2 lb K, L, or N frame but really nice and smooth. Better than I thought you could make a J frame. I'd never done a J frame "race gun" so it was interesting. "J frame race gun" is kind of an oxymoron.