Pre 27 cylinder release stuck to the right

[M1A]

I was doing a good cleaning under the cylinder release button with an oiled patch. Lots of gunk under the thing. I inadvertently moved it to the right and it won't go back. The button has a stop, but it was off. There is spring tension, but it is blocked and I don't want to force it back left.
When the hammer is dropped the firing pin does not protrude through.
I have never removed a side plate. Fear of some spring popping all the innards out on the work bench and floor.
I have a good smith, but think it might be an easy fix, with some knowledgeable advice.

 

[g8rb8]

I am not exactly following some of the terminology you are using. As best I can determine the thumbpiece is stuck? If so I would suggest getting an appropriate size, high-quality screw driver and remove it to further investigate. When you use the terms right and left do you really mean rearward and forward? Pictures might help.

 

[flintsghost]

What has happened, Most likely is the bolt which is the part the cylinder release moves has moved too far to the rear and is stuck outside it's recess. You can check that by looking to see if the bolt is even with the recoil plate behind the cylinder. If you take the cylinder release nut off and remove the cylinder release you can wiggle the bolt a bit and it might go back into it's recess perfectly. Of course it might not.

The other possibility is that the detent has come off the end of the spring which operates the bolt and keeps it forward. It could have just slipped off or it could have so much crude inside that it stuck up inside the bolt. In that case you would need to put some oil like rem oil or rem oil spray into the slot that you can see when the cylinder release is off and work it back and forth a bit to dislodge it.

The best actual remedy is for an armorer or knowledgable person to remove the side plate and service the action and clean and oil everything. I do that to my own revolvers at a minimum of once a year if I shoot them or every couple of years if I don't. Keeping in mind that I am an armorer.

 

[M1A]

When I clean the revolver the cylinder is removed. I move the release to the rear to cock the hammer for cleaning. The bolt release has a stop on the underside to prevent an over rearward movement. In this case I removed the cylinder release and nut to clean underneath the release and the frame surface. I accidentally moved the bolt to far to the rear and it did not fully return. It is under spring tension and only moves to the rear about 1/32". The bolt was and is nice and clean, and moves the small distance smoothly.
I do have an armorer that I've used for decades. Just thought this might be easy. I hate to be wrong.
Thanks so much.

 

[bigggbbruce]

Without the thumb piece on I'm thinking you were able to push the bolt back far enough that it has come out of the hole in the recoil plate. Although I would think the hammer in the way would not allow this. But hey, seems to be the problem.

Pull back on the bolt and see if you can persuade it to come back through. If not, removing the side plate and going from the inside might be needed.

 

[flintsghost]

M1A if read what I indicated above, Look at the recoil plate inside the frame below the firing pin hole and see if the locking bolt is forward as it should be. If you only have 1/32" of rearward movement it can't be all the way forward, which would mean the bolt wouldn't show in the hole the cylinder locks into on the recoil plate. If forward the silver metal will be flush with the recoil plate. I believe you will find it isn't. If you find that it isn't take off the thumb piece and the small nut. And giggle the threaded portion of the locking bolt in and out till it goes back into the hole properly and sits flush with the recoil plate. Then it will be fine unless you lost the detent off the end somehow on the inside. That's what bigggbbruce is trying to tell you and I was trying to tell you above.

 

[M1A]

Thanks. I haven't had a chance to get back at it. I will have a look in the AM. I appreciate the help. Picking up some correct part names too.

 

[SW CQB 45]

I was doing a good cleaning under the cylinder release button with an oiled patch. Lots of gunk under the thing.

if you find that the bolt did not come out of the hole in the back plate…


recently my Model 29 bolt was stuck and the lube had solidified on the center pin and bolt. if that is the case, you will need to take it apart, soak the parts in some sort of solvent to dissolve the old lube. Kroil actually helped in freeing some of the parts after soaking for a while.

 

[g8rb8]

I agree with bigggbbruce, flintsghost, and I are all on the same page.

Below is a schematic from Numrich, with numbered parts referenced, to help you visualize the various recommendations provided.

Remove the thumbpiece nut (#20) and the thumbpiece (#21). It looks like you've probably already have done that.

Next, jiggle the Bolt (aka Cylinder catch - #22). When I had a problem similar to yours a couple of years ago I seem to recall I threaded the thumbpiece nut (#20) (without the thumbpiece) back onto the Bolt (#22) to give me a little more to hold onto while I jiggled the Bolt (#22) to get it popped back into place.

The second half of flintsghost's post (post #3), if I'm understanding him correctly (excuse me if not), refers to the Bolt Plunger (#24) and the bolt Bolt Plunger Spring (#23).

 

[M1A]

Thanks guys. I never would have looked there. I see the bolt plunger, and it's not gunked up. It is out of the hole, and I see it move around freely. I did put the thumbpiece back on and I'm a giggling it. No success yet. I tried to take the plate off, but it won't budge. So, I just put the bolts back in. I'll keep on giggling until it hits just right.
I'll get the schematic and numbered list from Numrich.

 

[bigggbbruce]

I tried to take the plate off, but it won't budge. So, I just put the bolts back in.

DO NOT PRY ON THE PLATE..!!

Use a plastic mallet, or a screwdriver handle and give a few wacks to the grip portion of the frame. After a few good hits the side plate will start to move. Keep it up until it pops right off.

In order to get at the bolt you may need to remove the mainspring and then the hammer to get in to align the bolt.

Not a big deal for those with knowledge but you may find it intimidating.

All in all about a 20 minute job.

 

[M1A]

Thanks for that. I knew not to force the plate since I've heard some bent plate stories. I do have a proper hammer and I will give it a wack later. With the help I've received I am more interested than intimidated. This is not beyond my ability now that I have some insight into what I'll find with the plate removed.

 

[bigggbbruce]

One thing that does happen when removing the side plate is the lock work will move upwards as well.

Just make sure everything is seated against the frame when reassembling. Simple press with your fingers is all it takes.

 

[M1A]

The plate popped up in place after a couple wacks. I removed the transfer bar and moved the bolt plunger around and it snapped back. Cleaned & oiled around a bit, it was not bad anyway. Replaced transfer bar. Slid the plate up the transfer bar to the corner and it self aligned. Then pressed, and pressed some more, into place. All is well.
I saw nothing under the plate that would keep me out in future.
Many thanks.

 

[flintsghost]

Glad you were able to get it done. As you found it's no rocket science but it does take a bit of know how. Good luck in the future.