PROOF POSITIVE THAT THIS IS THE BEST CAR WAX INVENTED SO FAR

[chief38]

To say I'm a little fussy about how my vehicles are maintained is an understatement! As I get older it gets a bit harder and more tedious every year to "prep" the cars for the Winter. Before putting on a new coat of wax I always clean and strip off all the old wax plus and dirt or imbedded contaminants that have found there way onto the paint during the year. Last year in October I went through my prep routine and applied Griots Garage Polywax (for the first time on this vehicle) which is absolutely incredible!! Here is how I know just how good it is........

To strip the paint clean first I washed the SUV with Dawn Dishwashing Soap which you are normally never supposed to use unless you want to strip the old wax - because Dawn is know to remove wax. After the thorough washing with Dawn, the old wax was laughing at the Dawn because it had not been removed! Then I used a Clay Bar and cleaned the entire car again which usually takes what ever wax is left off - nope! I mixed up my favorite pre-wax spray solution which is Isopropyl Alcohol and Distilled water which in the past has always cleaned everything off. After wiping down the SUV once again with the striping mixture there was still a good amount of wax left - so I mixed up a stronger ratio and did it once again. Now I got most of the old wax off and deemed the paint clean enough to apply the Griots Polywax again. Man that wax is good!

All throughout the year the wax had never failed to sheet and bead water away but up until today I just did not realize how good it really is. Not only is it tough but the shine it produces is excellent and as a bonus it's easy to apply and remove. Now my Yukon "shines like the top of the Chrysler Building" !

This Polywax (the liquid version) from Griot's Garage goes a long long way and I'm still on my original bottle after doing my GMC Yukon 2 times, my Wife's Buick LaCrosse once and 5 Motorcycles (not all mine) at least 1 time each. I don't remember what I paid for it but it was not that expensive - and worth every penny!!! So far I'm going to say this is the best wax I've ever used so if any of you really want good car wax, this is the one!

BTW the key to waxing any vehicle is to properly prepare it. If you just throw a coat of wax over an unprepared car, your results will severely suffer! Just figured I'd share my new Fav wax incase there are some "car guys & gals out there.

 

[dubtap21]

Thanks for the info......GGPW sounds legit!!

Sent from my SM-N930T using Tapatalk

 

[yeti]

I need to do a thorough strip, clean & wax on the car & suv before it is too cold/lousy to do it. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[vonn]

To back up your thoughts on removing the old wax before new wax I once had a silver Corvette that looked like it needed painting but after removing the old wax the paint was great. Saved myself a lot of time,effort and money!

 

[Rule3]

"PROOF POSITIVE THAT THIS IS THE BEST CAR WAX INVENTED SO FAR"

Where is the "proof"??
Should this be bookmarked under Best of Threads?

Why use DAWN, if you could Buy several of Giriots BEST surface prep cleaners.?


Surface Prep


- Griot's Garage

Did you use a pre washed (in Ivory Flakes) Microfiber Cloth from Costco to buff to a brilliant shine.

 

[chief38]

"PROOF POSITIVE THAT THIS IS THE BEST CAR WAX INVENTED SO FAR"

Where is the "proof"??
Should this be bookmarked under Best of Threads?

The "Proof" is that it lasted one full year, never failed during that period and even when purposeful stripping was done, it was very hard to remove. That's the proof in my eyes.

Why use DAWN, if you could Buy several of Giriots BEST surface prep cleaners.?

To be honest, I spoke to one of my neighbors who has been a professional Detailer for 17 years and he told me he uses Dawn all the time and the commercially available products are really not any better - just smell more enticing. Dawn is known for stripping waxes and that is why you should not use it on a regular basis - except when stripping.


Surface Prep


- Griot's Garage

Did you use a pre washed (in Ivory Flakes) Microfiber Cloth from Costco to buff to a brilliant shine.

I use the Microfiber cloths from Costco. I do not wash them and after I use them on my vehicles I let them dry then use them again around the shop and garage for oily & greasy things. Then they get tossed.

 

[chief38]

I need to do a thorough strip, clean & wax on the car & suv before it is too cold/lousy to do it. Thanks for the heads up!

If you do not thoroughly remove the old wax you are just waxing over a deteriorated surface finish - results will be marginal and not really last long because the new wax will not be bonding to the paint - just to old wax.

You should Clay Bar a car each time you want to re-wax it. It will remove all the little embedded debris (feels like sand to the touch) and give you a clean surface to start with again. Always use a lubricant with the Clay Bar (Griot's Speed Shine works very well). After using a Clay Bar and before applying new wax, fill a spray bottle with 1/3 (70%) Isopropyl Alcohol and 2/3 with Distilled Water, shake well and spray on car, wipe off with new microfiber rag to remove all traces of lubricant and soap. Then immediately afterwards, apply your wax according to the manufacturers instructions. Not only will your car shine up incredibly well but the finish will be quite slick. When you wash your car on a weekly, bimonthly or whatever regular basis, use a Drying Agent/Spray Wax which will not only shed off the water really fast but it adds a thin sacrificial layer to your primary wax.

 

[chief38]

BTW let me explains WHY I believe the Griots Polywax is so good.

Carnauba wax is known to give the best shine of any product out there - the only problem with Carnauba is that because it is a natural product it does not last very long - maybe a few months at best. The other part of Polywax is its Polymer base that bonds to the paint and lasts an incredibly long time. Basically you have the best of both worlds in one product.

There are other waxes that have similar make-up (like Meguires NX2 Next Generation wax) and I've used it many times prior to the Polywax. The shine of the NX2 is OK but not as good as the Polywax and the Meguires version simply does not last as long. That has been my experience with equal prep routines.

 

[chief38]

Rule3,

BTW the Griot's Garage Prep Kit is what I use - it is the Clay Bar and the Speed Shine Lubricant "in a package". Washing with soap and water and prepping to remove all soap and clay is done with IPA/Dist. H2O sprayt mist and a new MF rag.

 

[gman51]

I found waxing the heck out your vehicles can cause more problems than protection benefits.
If when waxing your vehicle you notice the color of your paint on your wiping/buffing rag then you can bet you are stripping paint off your car.
How do I know that? From experience. I waxed the hood on an Olds 98 and after I was finished the hood paint shine was gone leaving a very dull paint on the hood. I remember waxing my new 1981 Z-28 and seeing blue coloring on my buffing cloth. This car was almost new so no it wasn't oxidized paint on my buffing pad. Some waxes can do more harm than good. Using a wax for the first time it might be wise to apply it on a less visible area to see what it does to the paint or your buffing pad.

 

[chief38]

I found waxing the heck out your vehicles can cause more problems than protection benefits.
If when waxing your vehicle you notice the color of your paint on your wiping/buffing rag then you can bet you are stripping paint off your car.
How do I know that? From experience. I waxed the hood on an Olds 98 and after I was finished the hood paint shine was gone leaving a very dull paint on the hood. I remember waxing my new 1981 Z-28 and seeing blue coloring on my buffing cloth. This car was almost new so no it wasn't oxidized paint on my buffing pad. Some waxes can do more harm than good. Using a wax for the first time it might be wise to apply it on a less visible area to see what it does to the paint or your buffing pad.

gman51,

I respectfully disagree! You need to use a proper wax and prep for the surface of a specific vehicle! Many of the older more traditional waxes have/had a small amount of abrasive cleaners in them. The abrasives were sort of meant to cut out what I deem a "proper" preparation process (clay bar and lubricant) - that said, they are pretty abrasive and not really good for the paint!

If you are removing the "color" then you are removing the base coat and have removed the clear coat from the vehicle. On older vehicles there was no clear coat but I do not know the exact time line of when clear coats became standard. For older vehicles with no clear coat an abrasive wax/cleaner should never be used!

I have always been a fanatic in how I maintain my vehicles and the car products that are on the market now are so far superior to the older stuff - if you have any old old product, you should toss it. Not coating your cars paint with all the air pollution and acid rain is a recipe for disaster - at least if you plan on keeping said vehicle for a long time. If you get a new car or truck every few years, it's more of a moot point I suppose. Don't let a bad experience using bad product ruin your desire to have your vehicles look great!

BTW I only wax my vehicles once a year (in late Sept. or early Oct.) and when done properly that is all that is required. I never wax it more than that since the more you "play" with a vehicles paint the more swirl marks you will eventually see and then they have to be removed. I will agree when people wax their vehicles every 2 months they are either being overly obsessed or are using a poor wax that doesn't last, or a bad preparation regiment. It took me 40 years to "get-it" although the first 30 I didn't much care as all my vehicles were leased through my Corporation & I only kept them for 3 years. Now that I own them and keep them for the long haul, it matters.

Regards,

Chief38

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

I belong to "the dirt protects the paint" school myself.....

 

[Wee Hooker]

Back when I took pride in what I drove. I used to thoroughly prep and wax my truck twice a year. I used a 5 step process that included multiple coats of a pure carnuba wax. " The clay bar came out yearly and I was always amazed how much crud came out of the paint. (Especially "rail dust" out of my white Nissan Frontier.)

FWIW, I found Eagle One "Wax As You Dry" to be an amazing product for keeping the shine up between waxing. Just mist it on a wet car at the end of each wash before drying with a towel.

Now I drive (and love) a 9 year old mini van with a few dings in it. Life is much easier '-)

 

[Ματθιας]

I made my living as a professional detailer when I worked at numerous car dealerships in my youth. And after having used and experimented with all sorts of professional quality products, the only things I use on my personal vehicles are:

-Three wash mitts - one for the above the body line, one below and an extra.
Two 5 gallon buckets on for soap, the other for the third mitt
-Dawn dishwashing soap
-Laquer thinner
-Sprayaway glass cleaner
-0000 steel wool and chrome polish for the glass.
-Pledge furniture polish for the interior and the tires
- Maguires carnuba wax.
-I use the third wet wash mitt to apply the carnuba wax.
-Terry cloth towels to remove the wax.

I don't bother with extra time and effort associated with a clay bar.

It's what works for me and my vehicles looks great!

 

[Rule3]

The main line of defense of a cars PAINT is the CLEARCOAT


Waxes SpaceAGE Polymers do nothing to the PAINT They are a coating,protection on top of the CLEARCOAT


As Caj said, we use that method for dust protects the furniture finish


As with all the snake oils for guns, just use something it doesn't matter which one. Use it correctly and often enough.


Whats the best BRAND of Motor OIL etc etc.



YMMV

 

[chief38]

The main line of defense of a cars PAINT is the CLEARCOAT


Waxes SpaceAGE Polymers do nothing to the PAINT They are a coating,protection on top of the CLEARCOAT


As Caj said, we use that method for dust protects the furniture finish


As with all the snake oils for guns, just use something it doesn't matter which one. Use it correctly and often enough.


Whats the best BRAND of Motor OIL etc etc.



YMMV

Unless I misunderstand Clear-coats, they are just like paint (but clear)and therefore should be treated similarly - NO?

And BTW - MY BRAND OIL is the best! HA HA HA LOL

 

[ladder13]

Me at the car wash


Chemical Guys - Another reason why you should never take...

 

[Ματθιας]

Clear coats ARE paint.

 

[chief38]

Seriously, just like any consumable there is junk, there is the best and then average for the Lions share. I've been at this for many years now and I am just reporting and commenting on personal experiences, not from something I read in a car magazine. I have no stake in this at all and only desire to help other "Car Nuts" here. Most of my recommendations I've made are all found by trial & error.

Sometimes products that cost 3 times the average are only 5% better and not worth the extra coin - agreed, but in this case the product I reported on (Polywax) is not costly (about $21 bucks on Amazon) and is in my book well worth ordering. That said - to each his own.

 

[spricks]

Yep, I drive a F150 and I use it like a truck....so many folks keep em purdy and the chrome shinny.....just won't take the time to wax and polish, cause it would be a constant job. Thanks for the heads up though.
I do run it through the car wash a couple times a year for special occasions.

spricks