Proper way to sharpen a knife??

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same way you get to Carnegie Hall....practice :D

Ceramic sticks, hard Arkansas stones, diamond dust sticks, sharpening steels, kits like Lanskeys etc all will put a fine edge if you know what you're doing. I use a diamond stick mainly and just try and slice a thin slice off of it. Get some rhythm going and a few seconds is all it takes. If I really had to shave with it I'd strop it on leather just a bit and have a styptic pencil handy .
 
I've always had good luck with the lansky sharpener and the spyderco sharpmaker. I tried stones,etc.and could never keep my angle consistent.these sharpeners take all the guesswork out of the equation. I admire those that can freehand but I'm not one of them.
 
Have used Lanskey for some 35 years now. As the diamond stones became available I picked them up. Trick is, you never let a knife get to the point beyond that just a touch up is all that is needed. How ever, I had a custom knife one of the boys got his hands on and I thought ruined it. No so. I started with the black rough stone and worked my way down. Took some time. but I saved the knife. She dressed out that last Mule deer in colorado with no problem. :)
Here she is with a little Ruger 32 mag:
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Everyone seems to have their own preference. I've used quite a few methods. If there is no edge on it, I'll use a soft Arkansas or mid range diamond stone and work it patiently, holding between a 12 and 15 degree angle. After I get what I can out of that I'll switch to a hard Arkansas or fine diamond and work it again. Finally, I'll finish with a steel or ceramic stick. Then I just maintain it with the steel or stick. Been doing it that way for 40 years, learned how from my dad. Seems to work well enough for me.
 
I use a Lansky system to get the angle just right. Then I can tweak it on an Arkansas stone after hard use.

For the true razor edge, get a leather strop. I use an old leather belt with a little jeweler's polish. you can take a pretty-sharp knife and turn it into a crazy-sharp knife with a few passes over a leather strop. Be careful, razor sharp knives are an obsession!

Edmo
 
I've always envied people who could sharpen a knife to a razor quality edge in minutes with little effort. I bought more knife sharpening systems than I care to admit and some worked OK, some were terrible, but none seemed to give me the razor sharpness I was looking for.

When I retired 3 years ago I vowed to myself that I would learn to properly sharpen a knife - freehand. I purchased full size high quality Arkansas Stones in medium, fine and extra fine grit and a can of honing oil. I practiced with knives that I didn't care about and night after night I would experiment with different techniques, angles, etc. One night everything just came together and viola...... I had my razor sharp knife in minutes! Now the knives in my kitchen are capable of performing surgery..... in fact I usually cut myself in the kitchen at least once a week.

I now routinely sharpen knives for friends, neighbors, and hunting buddies, and actually have become pretty adept at it. It's now fun! The secret for me is that I mount the Arkansas stone in its wooden box in my workbench vise which is the perfect height and angle for me to have full control of the knife blade. A few strokes and the knife is back to razor sharp condition. I'm just ticked off it took me so long to figure it out!

Chief38
 
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If a knife is out of whack I rough it in with my Lansky to get the angle correct. I like the way my Emersons are sharpened, which is the angle on one side gets worked on, the other is steep. I do that to all of my knives. I then follow up with a cardboard wheel that's on a dedicated bench grinder.

I touch them up on the cardboard wheel when they lose their edge after a while. They come back pretty quick, and I'm not taking much metal off either, which I like.

When I'm done it is a dangerous knife until a it dulls a little.

My old Buck knives that I've had forever will hold an edge a long time. Can usually field dress, skin, and cut up two deer with one before needing re-sharpening.
 
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:) I use Arkansas stones and a steel. To get the right angle I hold the knife at 90 degrees to the stone then lay it over to 45 degrees then lay it over half of that to 22 degrees. Now you have your angle and you can start practicing until you can do it without thinking about it. You will be surprised how fast you will learn. I use the steel to straighten the edge between sharpening's. It only takes a few seconds on the steel to straighten the edge. Don
 
The physics of sharpening are the same regardless of the tools.

Use a course stone or diamond on one side until you get a burr on the other side the whole length of the blade. You can feel the burr with your nail. Then hone the other side until there is a burr on the opposite side .

Then take a finer stone and gently hone several times on both sides to make that burr drop off.

This is the basic procedure that has to be done always.

Optionally you can finish the edge by stropping, using a very fine sharpening device or even very fine sandpaper or honing paste - these will help to get the final razor edge.

Some knives cannot be sharpened to razor edge because of steel, heat treatment or edge profile. Or you want to have more blunt edge profile to make it stronger.
 
I learned to sharpen knives and axes as part of the field craft requirements of the Camping merit badge in the Boy Scouts. The principles are the same regardless of if one is using a sharpening stone or some other sort of device. On a really dull knife, you have to establish an edge. This will require a stone/abrasive of about medium grit. A coarse grit is not something you want to use on a knife for sharpening. Look closely at the knife and try to follow the same angle as the original factory grind. Once the edge is at least established, a fine stone will allow you to polish and refine it to the mirror smooth (at least to the naked eye) finish that everyone so appreciates. I have always liked the Arkansaw stones for sharpening my knives. There are many other good choices available. For really heavy hard work, I prefer the edge not to be so thin. For whittling, etc., I work the edge to a more thinner angle as it eases the movement of the blade through the wood and allows easier detail in cutting. HTH. Sincerely. brucev.
 
Here's another vote for Lanskey. I've been using one for 40 years and it works quickly and easily. In my opinion, that's the best/easiest way to start.

Recently a guy has been sharpening knives at local gun shows using a home made combination of a small belt sander and a Lanskey like mounting system. It's really slick. The only problem I see is that he can't vary grades on his belt. Seems to work OK anyway.

Ed
 
Try the Chef's Choice manual knife sharpener. It isn't perfect, but it is pretty well idiot proof. Ought run about 30 maybe 40 dollars at Bed, Bath and Beyond, though for some reason mine was on clearance and cost around seven dollars. For portable use, the Lansky pull through with the black rubbery thumb piece on it is a nice value.

Though if you have time to kill, you can learn a lot by sharpening any old random piece of metal that you've pounded into a shiv on a brick. Passes the time.
 
grandma used to have "shave the hair off your arm" sharp knives that were sharpened on the edge of a cast iron fry pan..
i still can not get that down
 
It's a dying art. Everyone at the PD brings me their blades to sharpen. My grandad and dad both spent time teaching me how to sharpen a blade. Even they differed a bit. I use an Arkansas stone that is stored submerged in oil. I finish up with leather. I don't give the knife back until it shaves.
 
I use an arkansas stone. the secret with it, or any other system is to maintain a uniform angle and lighten pressure till its just the weight of the blade on the stone.
 
I get up, face west, burp, scratch, and head for the fridge for something to drink. (I've been told it is quite a sight) Fire up the car, truck, or bike and I head to the knife shop downtown. Never charges me and they always end up like a razor. His fee is $1 if he doesn't know you.
 
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