Question for K-38 Masterpiece owners
- Thread starter roadhog96
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
tcc
Member
I recently experienced a similar problem with a 1951 K 38. Is the HKS speedoader hitting the thumb lever or the grip? The grip (stock) of that time was a bit beefier/wider up on the thumb side and I quit using a SL because I didn't want to damage the grip.
A sweet gun, though, show us some pics!
T
A sweet gun, though, show us some pics!
T
That's a bummer. Similar thing happened to me with a holster. Bought one on Ebay for my M-17 only to find that it was for the 6" I frame revolvers. Had to get an old 32 Regulation Police to fit.
It may be puttin' the cart in front of the pony but it is worth trying to justify another gun buy to the better half, eh?John
Smith357
US Veteran
I'm no expert here so I'm probably dead wrong, but I thought the cylinder release latch has been redesigned quite a few times over the years. It an easy part to change out and there are many aftermarket designs to choose from if none of the stock S&W designs trip your trigger.
Old
New
Newest
Aftermarket
Old
New
Newest
Aftermarket
The cylinder totally swings all the way out so its just a issue with the thumb lever. They start their list with the model 10 and work upward listing all the models that it will fit. I thought the K-38 was the same as the models that followed only that it wasn't given a model number due to it being manufacture early on. They hwve the small walnut stocks that have the diamond with the screw hole and checkering and the SL just clears the edge. I know they make grips that are made for a SL that have the top of the left grip notched out but it doesn't look to me that they would give any more room because it would be right in the way when the cylinder is fully opened. Now the K-38 can't be different than others so there has to be an explanation. Some say they can use a SL and some say they had the same problem.
Last edited:
I'm no expert here so I'm probably dead wrong, but I thought the cylinder release latch has been redesigned quite a few times over the years. It an easy part to change out and there are many aftermarket designs to choose from if none of the stock S&W designs trip your trigger.
Old
New
Newest
Aftermarket
That's interesting didnt know the latch had so many designs. I believe the SL is hitting a lttle further back close to we're the screw is located, not toward the tapered area in the front but I suppose that could be the problem.
gruntdeputy
Member
Gents,
You do have the correct speed loader for that model and it does work. I think that your technique is the issue.
You do not have to line up all six cartridges with the chambers. You only need to line up two cartridges, say at the 10 and 11 O'clock position and the rest will be close enough to drop into place. Make sure that you have the muzzle pointed as close to straight down as you can rotate that wrist; gravity is your friend. It does not matter if the plastic body of the speed loader rubs against the cylinder release or the edge of the grip, although that makes it slightly more difficult to get the first two cartridges lined up. Use some snap caps in the speed loaders and practice, safely.
I shot a Model 66 in the academy that came with the old style target grips. We eventually learned to sand down the grip to give us more clearance. Later S&W relieved the grip more to accommodate speed loaders. But they still work. You do not need to line up all six cartridges with the six chambers for the bullets to drop in.
Speed strips from Bianchi or Quik Strips from Tuff Products are also an option although not as fast as a speed loader. https://www.tuffproducts.com/home.php?cat=265
Hope this helps.
Frank
You do have the correct speed loader for that model and it does work. I think that your technique is the issue.
You do not have to line up all six cartridges with the chambers. You only need to line up two cartridges, say at the 10 and 11 O'clock position and the rest will be close enough to drop into place. Make sure that you have the muzzle pointed as close to straight down as you can rotate that wrist; gravity is your friend. It does not matter if the plastic body of the speed loader rubs against the cylinder release or the edge of the grip, although that makes it slightly more difficult to get the first two cartridges lined up. Use some snap caps in the speed loaders and practice, safely.
I shot a Model 66 in the academy that came with the old style target grips. We eventually learned to sand down the grip to give us more clearance. Later S&W relieved the grip more to accommodate speed loaders. But they still work. You do not need to line up all six cartridges with the six chambers for the bullets to drop in.
Speed strips from Bianchi or Quik Strips from Tuff Products are also an option although not as fast as a speed loader. https://www.tuffproducts.com/home.php?cat=265
Hope this helps.
Frank
Seems to me that a K frame 38 is a K frame 38, no matter what the model #. Some have adjustable sites, some don't.The speed loader for one model should work for another model. Have you tried another speed loader? Good luck.
gruntdeputy
Member
This video clip might be of some help. Watch the technique, note that he rotates the muzzle straight up to eject the spent cartridges and then straight down to get the cartridges to drop in to the cambers.
Frank
Revolver Reloading - YouTube
Frank
Revolver Reloading - YouTube
Update!!!! I think I know what the problem is. The SL can get stuck, wedged in behind the top of the hand grip and the latch lever. Half of the rounds will drop in the cylinder the other 3 will get stuck in the speed loader. Remove the grips and they will fall right in. Try the SL several times without the grips and see if it works perfect every try. Apparently the top edge of the grip hits the SL ever so slightly, just enough so that it's tilted and not lined up straight with the cylinder and it ends up getting wedged against the latch and the rounds won't fall out. There's a trick for everything. Different grips would definitely make a difference. You need to get the ones that have the notch cut out, not the ones that have the football relief.
Last edited:
Yah those are pretty nice grips. I think the genuine S&W Target grips rule. Grips are easier enough to change out and it's not a permanent mod to the gun.
Last edited:
Nframe_is_no1
Member
I have a pair of model 14-3s that both came with the older style "football" target stocks. I also use the HKS model 10-A speedloader. The problem is that the speedloader will become jammed against the side of the stock if you attempted to insert the cartridges all the way. This is why S&W introduced a speedloader cutout for the K-frame target stocks in 1978. I found a simple cure for this problem without sanding down and destroying a beautiful set of vintage target stocks. I just don't insert the speedloader all the way. Holding the gun with the muzzle pointing at the ground, I let only the bullet noses barely touch the charge holes, and then turn the release knob. Gravity does the rest for me, and the cartridges fall in without the speedloader binding on the grips. Please don't sand a nice pair of stocks! I've seen too many destroyed in that way. I'll take this opportunitiy to show off my 14-3s:
To illustrate the difference, here is my 18-3 wearing a pair of target stocks with the speedloader cut-out. (These have since been replaced with a more period-correct set of footballs.) Note where the wood is cut away:
To illustrate the difference, here is my 18-3 wearing a pair of target stocks with the speedloader cut-out. (These have since been replaced with a more period-correct set of footballs.) Note where the wood is cut away:
Last edited:
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
