- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
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Am I missing something or is there a trick to using this tool to remove the cantilever stepped designed rear sights of an M&P pistol. I own three M&P SHields two of which I just bought in the last two months. Decided to replace the factory sights on all three with XS F8 sights and recall when I did a trigger upgrade on my G-1 Shield 13 years ago what an SOB it was to remove BOTH sights but just how much more difficult it was to remove the rear sight because there is so little sight surface area over the dovetail portion to get the face of a brass punch to rest on. I figured I buy a sight removal/adjustment tool.
After MUCH researching I bought the MIUSA Lyman Accusight.
The Lyman worked like a magic wand and ahd very very little difficulty removing and installing the front sight but had much much more difficulty on the rear sight because of two factors:
#1- The slide hold down part prevented the upper block from going low enough to allow the sight pusher to engage the rear sight area immediately above the dovetail and I had to remove it and substitute cut bar stock as shims to get the upper block and sight pusher low enough to engage the sight directly above the dovetail. I tried to remove the rear sight by engaging the much higher rear sight portion not over the dove tail but over the slide, but stopped once I felt the amount of force I was applying based on how the sight pusher and slide were deflecting to one side had reached the point I felt it was going to damage either or both the tool and the slide.
#2- I ended up removing the slide hold down foot and set the upper block to the needed height by shimming between the top of the slide and the stud with cut aluminum and brass bar stock and a dime and then to prevent the upper block from deflecting down and to the right and the slide from rolling to the right between the stud clamp foots, I used the same aluminum and brass bar stock I had laying around cut into shims I placed to fill the jap between the upper block and base
This was all necessary due to there is barely any vertical surface area of the rear sight located directly above the dove tail interface for the sight removal jig to engaged the sight. And yes I did flip the top of the tool and slide 180" like the picture of the box the tool comes in.
My concern is without the slide hold down foot the slide hold down stud will bend or its tip that inserts into the foot will become damaged and unable to again use the foot or be removed to be replaced with a new stud.
Am I correct in thinking to use this tool to remove the rear sight I must first place my slide in a vice and use a punch to brake the rear sight loose and overcome the initial interference friction fit between the sight dovetail and the slide dovetail grove?
Or am I just using the sight wrong and not catching my mistake.
After MUCH researching I bought the MIUSA Lyman Accusight.
The Lyman worked like a magic wand and ahd very very little difficulty removing and installing the front sight but had much much more difficulty on the rear sight because of two factors:
#1- The slide hold down part prevented the upper block from going low enough to allow the sight pusher to engage the rear sight area immediately above the dovetail and I had to remove it and substitute cut bar stock as shims to get the upper block and sight pusher low enough to engage the sight directly above the dovetail. I tried to remove the rear sight by engaging the much higher rear sight portion not over the dove tail but over the slide, but stopped once I felt the amount of force I was applying based on how the sight pusher and slide were deflecting to one side had reached the point I felt it was going to damage either or both the tool and the slide.
#2- I ended up removing the slide hold down foot and set the upper block to the needed height by shimming between the top of the slide and the stud with cut aluminum and brass bar stock and a dime and then to prevent the upper block from deflecting down and to the right and the slide from rolling to the right between the stud clamp foots, I used the same aluminum and brass bar stock I had laying around cut into shims I placed to fill the jap between the upper block and base
This was all necessary due to there is barely any vertical surface area of the rear sight located directly above the dove tail interface for the sight removal jig to engaged the sight. And yes I did flip the top of the tool and slide 180" like the picture of the box the tool comes in.
My concern is without the slide hold down foot the slide hold down stud will bend or its tip that inserts into the foot will become damaged and unable to again use the foot or be removed to be replaced with a new stud.
Am I correct in thinking to use this tool to remove the rear sight I must first place my slide in a vice and use a punch to brake the rear sight loose and overcome the initial interference friction fit between the sight dovetail and the slide dovetail grove?
Or am I just using the sight wrong and not catching my mistake.
