Questions about 1917 markings

rjroberts

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I have looked through a number of the threads here on the subject, and have gleaned some useful information. Thanks. However, I have a few more questions, and rather than complicating by resurrecting one thread or another, I'll just ask. I have the following 1917:

Appears commercial, probably cobbled from military leftover parts post WWI.

-No s/n on the butt;
-s/n on frame. 8285 and a space and another number I can't be sure, and there is a 6 above it.
-s/n on yoke, 8685x;
-s/n underside of barrel 12063x
-s/n on cylinder 12063x (matches barrel)

There are eagle stamps on frame, and cylinder, forgot to check barrel.
Barrel underside is US Property.
Underneath grip, on grip frame, right side is D, left side is 18.

There are no Smith Logos on either side.
There is no "Made in USA" on the right side, though there is an A. No indication of removal, because one would have to grind pretty deep to remove part, leaving a wave leading up to the A.

The entire revolver is polished and blued. Obviously redone. Where the serial numbers are, there is a 4 digit stamp, larger numbers, 2x4x. From what I got from other threads, this is an assembly code to keep parts together for either an arsenal rebuild, or one thread I can't find said it was used after the war to make commercial 1917s out of leftover parts. I couldn't find the thread or I would have quoted it. And, why would an arsenal rebuild be polished and blued? I'd think it parked or whatever the original dull finish was.

The polishing is quite good. There is no "smearing" of numbers, though ones, especially on the barrel seem a bit shallow. If numbers were on the butt, it would have to be ground quite deep to remove them (they were deep on other examples I've seen). The side plates were smooth, I don't know how one would grind off a logo without a trace and be smooth. And, the military ones had no logos. The real puzzler is the lack of a Made in USA on the right, no trace of grinding. Just an A. I must say, whoever polished it knew his business.

If someone could take some calipers and measure the thickness of the bottom of the butt on one with numbers, I'd appreciate it. That way, I could see if enough had been ground off, or no grinding.

Any thoughts on this one? I'm thinking commercial post war from surplus parts, but I really am not knowledgeable enough to say anything but speculate.

Tried some photos with my cell phone, but they appear useless.

As a "one of the things" aside, the 4 digit "assembly codes", turn out to be my birthday, the reason I blocked out two for the posting.
 
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From your description, the most likely scenario is this is a military 1917 Army (SN 12063x) with the official serial number from the bottom of the grip frame removed. This was a common practice with "liberated" military 1917s.
 
Bottom line question, are you a collector or shooter? How does it shoot?
Steve
 
From your description, the most likely scenario is this is a military 1917 Army (SN 12063x) with the official serial number from the bottom of the grip frame removed. This was a common practice with "liberated" military 1917s.


That is definitely what it is. If it was a Commercial, it would not have "US Property" on the barrel and it would almost certainly have a logo.

There were no Commercials made with a number like 12063x or 8285
 
I agree completely with the conclusions above. To address your other observations:

The yoke #s 8285 & 8685x match if you confirm with magnification. These are original factory assembly #s and the third location is on the inside of the side plate will also match. The 6 is an inspector stamp.

The true serial # is 12063X and has been removed from the butt, no doubt, no need to measure.

1917 SERIAL # LOCATIONS:

1. Grip frame butt (prefixed by a letter(s) following WWII) - or fore strap on I frame Regulation Police models and single shots with grips that cover the butt
2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud
3. Yoke - on rear face only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight (except the .32 Model 1896 and no doubt a few others)
4. Extractor star - backside
5. Cylinder - rear face
6. Right stock only - on back, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material, stamped after 1929, (except most post war target grips because individual fitting not required.)

Eagle stamps are correct since it is a military issue but would also be factory correct for coml models in 45 ACP and 44 Spl built thru about the end of the 1920s or so.

These are routine inspector stamps: Underneath grip, on grip frame, right side is D, left side is 18.

The MADE IN USA roll mark was not ordered until June 1922, too late to be on any WWI 1917s.

The #2x4x is most likely an arsenal rebuild stamp. And it's true it would have been parkerized and still would be if it hadn't had a subsequent commercial reblue (sounds like a good one too).

Just FYI: the gun is technically illegal w/o the serial # anywhere on the frame. Many have been made legal again by stamping the serial # under the left grip on the bottom left side of grip frame.

Enjoy!
 
Thanks very much Murphydog, Handejector and Hondo for your knowledge and help. I had read in a thread, that I can't find as there have been many, that some commercials were made post war from leftover military parts. I thought maybe a mistake not serializing the butt, seems unlikely. But, from a couple of your comments, it would seem the most likely scenario is one "liberated" as a bring-home, then the butt ground, and subsequently reblued. The arsenal rebuild could easily have been during service. I don't know why a US Property would be left on a barrel if someone ground the butt to conceal the fact that it was military. Either he didn't want to mess the barrel too much, or the barrel was replaced when everything was refinished. I understand a lot of US barrels were legitimately available on the surplus market, and were used for repairs.

Thanks again, and your scenario likely is the overall correct one.

This site is better than 10 encyclopedias.

At one time, I was going to collect some things (this wasn't part of it, just wanted a revolver companion to my 1911s), but I live too close to salt water. I had 1st series SAA (sorry for the heresy on this site), a Lightning papered to Wells Fargo in 1892, a 1905 Navy, and a couple of others. Now, you know those door locks that the makers say are finished with something that borders on thermonuclear proof? One got corrosion spots all over it within about a year and a half. Other things got there, too. So, I realized I'd have to keep a special, climate controlled (more so than the regular house A/C) room, or recoat them with oil weekly. They went on to better homes, and I concentrated on "users".
 
Thanks very much Murphydog, Handejector and Hondo for your knowledge and help. I had read in a thread, that I can't find as there have been many, that some commercials were made post war from leftover military parts.

You're very welcome.

Yes many were; you may find this thread helpful:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/606106-stamp-1917-frame.html#post140614710

AND THIS:

RE-USE OF 1917 SURPLUS FRAMES
Inspected, but unused serial numbered 1917 military frames preceding and following #169959 (the estimated last military unit made), were assembled thru #209791 by the 1946 Brazilian contract 1917s. Some numbered frames went to the Navy and Marines.

Some 1917s with frames and parts left over from the government contract with very varied shipping dates were assembled into many commercial model 1917s, military 1917s to fill contracts for the Brazilian government in 1937 and 1946. Therefore the s/n is of little help to pin down the shipping dates, but features do help. 1917 frames used for 2nd Model 44 Hand Ejectors will have serial #s in the regular N frames serial number series.

There are numerous examples that have the flaming bomb or eagle government inspector stamps in one or more various locations but not on the outside of the frame which were finished off; only in the yoke, and on 45 barrels and/or 45 cylinders. Also fouling cutouts may be found on these frames under the top strap.


ARSENAL REBUILDS:
If there's an extra large stamped # up to 5 digits (sometimes preceded with an R and/or S) in the yoke, yoke cut out, under the barrel, or all three places, it's an arsenal # indicating an arsenal rebuilt gun. The R may be found on the frame left side as well. Examples: Tryig to identify 1917 Revolver

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Photo credit: Doug4566


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Photo credit: Doug4566

And post #9 here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...-my-1917-hand-ejector-45-a.html#post139209650
 
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