smoothshooter
Member
I have an Inland M1 Carbine that needs a replacement barrel.
It is in excellent condition, but has a barrel that is chrome lined, but the chrome was poorly done and has what looks like cutter chips left in the bore and chromed over with the rifling. They will not come out using the methods I have tried so far. Easier to replace the barrel.
Can anyone out there recommend a company or shop that has the specialized tooling, barrels, and expertise to do this?
I know that carbines were not normally built with chrome bores, but I have read that a very, very few were. The idea was abandoned because the chrome got applied to the unfinished chambers as well. When the barrel shop started reaming the chambers to final dimensions, the chrome would ruin reamers in short order.
Have no information on where and when my gun got the chrome barrel.
Oddly enough, it still shoots WW2 ball ammo VERY accurately.
Soft point ammo not so well. I suspect the sporting ammo bullets get most of the jacket material ripped off travelling down the bore while the thicker FMJ material remains relatively intact when fired.
Suggestions?
It is in excellent condition, but has a barrel that is chrome lined, but the chrome was poorly done and has what looks like cutter chips left in the bore and chromed over with the rifling. They will not come out using the methods I have tried so far. Easier to replace the barrel.
Can anyone out there recommend a company or shop that has the specialized tooling, barrels, and expertise to do this?
I know that carbines were not normally built with chrome bores, but I have read that a very, very few were. The idea was abandoned because the chrome got applied to the unfinished chambers as well. When the barrel shop started reaming the chambers to final dimensions, the chrome would ruin reamers in short order.
Have no information on where and when my gun got the chrome barrel.
Oddly enough, it still shoots WW2 ball ammo VERY accurately.
Soft point ammo not so well. I suspect the sporting ammo bullets get most of the jacket material ripped off travelling down the bore while the thicker FMJ material remains relatively intact when fired.
Suggestions?