Recoil spring guide "notch"

[jmace57]

Can anyone tell me what I should do about the following...

I have two S&W 2nd Gen semi-autos that the recoil spring guide slips off the "notch" that is cut in the barrel. When you are putting the slide back on the frame, it slips off. My gut reaction is to take a Dremel with a disk and just BARELY touch it in the same spot to see if it can deepen the notch a little bit. I know Dremel tools are dangerous, but I can't really think of a better way. Any suggestions?

Many thanks
Jim

 

[JohnHL]

Are you certain it's the barrel notch and not the guide rod?

John

 

[WR Moore]

AMEN! Guide rods are a heck of a lot cheaper than barrels.

That said, some of the notches require an wee bit of finesse to make sure the rod is seated positively and that's not just with 2nd generation.

 

[jmace57]

Thanks for your input...

I've pulled the guide rod/spring out of a similar gun and it slips off as well. Maybe a new guide rod would have a better "edge" to catch on.

 

[jmace57]

A follow-up to the follow-up. I was able to find a new, original, stainless steel guide rod from Numrich for $16. I put it in and it works way better. I still think the "notch" is worn...if I'm not careful, it will slip off. Once I put it in...some other issues I had with the gun went away (once it shot single action [dry], it wouldn't work double-action). It seems to be working OK now. Thanks, all.

 

[Real Old Navy]

Glad the guide rod replacement corrected it for you...I don't think I would have tried a Dremel anyway...maybe a hand file.

 

[chief38]

The notch in question does seem a bit shallow, at least from your picture. I do not own this particular gun and so I don't know what it should look like. Therefore I might suggest the following.......

A) Compare it to another exact model if available.

B) Make sure the Spring Guide is not faulty or worn. You might want to try another or new one. They are way cheaper than Barrels.

C) If it proves out that the notch is the problem, then you can deepen it but I'd NOT suggest using a Dremel. Dremel's (or any power tool) can remove too much too fast and once the metal is gone you can't put it back. Personally on guns, I like Files and then Stones to finish. Yes they cut a whole lot slower but if they slip - no harm done.

Small little Jeweler's Files and miniature Stones in various shapes (round in this case) are a well worth while investment if you are going to work on guns. In this case you would need a File that has cutting teeth all the way to the end. You cold even use Emory Cloth or another abrasive cloth wrapped around the correct sized Drill Bit - (back end of course)

I'd hate to see you mess up an otherwise perfectly good Pistol because a Dremel slipped - they can do that rather easily!

 

[jbtrucker]

Here is my 5906 barrel but If remember correctly the notch on my 469 barrel was shallow.