Refinishing stocks??

[Model29-26.5]

I recently posted a video of a stock refinishing job that was done by BigSwoll58 On YouTube.
To my eyes, it was a very nice job, but apparently for some is not the “ Proper “way to refinish Stocks.
Any info on stock refinishing or techniques?
I may try refinishing a couple of mine, or even picking up some Decent enough that that can be refinished To top Notch.
For the experts Out there thought BigSwoll58 was doing it wrong, I’d be interested to know what the right way would be.
Again, my eyes, they looked great, and he did use a real hardware oil based high gloss finish, which might have been the issue for some who want to do it, the way they did it at the factory.
Any info would be helpful.
Thanks

 

[jmiles1960]

I'd like to see the video on YouTube. Can you tell me how to find it? Thanks!

 

[22hipower]

I'd like to see the video on YouTube. Can you tell me how to find it? Thanks!

Just put "utube BigSwoll58 refinishing stocks" in your search bar and you'll pull up several of his videos on the subject.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[Vtgw938]

I'm no expert but have refinished a few.If the old finish needs removing I will soak the stocks in acetone. I get all the finish off and lightly sand the wood being careful of the checkering and medallions. If they are for me, I will "fit" them to a gun so there is no misalignment of the panels. I than apply polyurethane in light coats, sanding between coats to promote adhesion. I apply at at least four coats, with only one on the checkering. After the finish has hardened I buff them as needed for the correct smoothness and sheen. Thr medallions get a cleaning and polishing, the screw is dressed up and I often remove any finish from the back side of the panels.

The above would be for stocks that were factory lacquered.The the stocks that are older, I would do about the same but apply a Min-Wax Tung Oil Finish. It takes much longer to build up a finish with this product but gives the desired finish with a softer sheen.

 

[Truckman]

I'm certainly no woodworker, nor a grip wizard like Curt Harlow or Keith Brown, but I did take a chance on the Cokes that were erroneously on my latest .38/44 OD...They appeared to have been dipped in a bucket of polyurethane for a few hours, then drip dried on the clothesline...The Goncalo Alves wood under the mess was nicely figured and no gouges or chips missing, so I thought I couldn't do any worse than the previous amateur...

I soaked them for a while in a sealed tub of acetone followed by a scrubbing with brushes to get the remaining patches off...I then hosed them down with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and rinsed them in the kitchen sink...When thoroughly dry I lightly sanded the rough spots to smooth it all out...

Next I rubbed them with True Oil and let them dry thoroughly...A coat of Howard's Feed-n-Wax and another of RenWax, and that was as far as I was willing to take it...Here's the result, good, bad or indifferent...They're in the middle in the family shot......Ben

 

[Model29-26.5]

I'm no expert but have refinished a few.If the old finish needs removing I will soak the stocks in acetone. I get all the finish off and lightly sand the wood being careful of the checkering and medallions. If they are for me, I will "fit" them to a gun so there is no misalignment of the panels. I than apply polyurethane in light coats, sanding between coats to promote adhesion. I apply at at least four coats, with only one on the checkering. After the finish has hardened I buff them as needed for the correct smoothness and sheen. Thr medallions get a cleaning and polishing, the screw is dressed up and often emov the finish from the back side of the panels.
The above would be for stocks that were factory lacquered.The the stocks that are older, I would do about the same but apply a Min-Wax Tung Oil Finish. Iy takes much longer to build up a finish with this product but gives the desired effect with a softer sheen.

Your method is the BigSwoll58 method.
Thanks for the rundown

 

[Model29-26.5]

I'm certainly no woodworker, nor a grip wizard like Curt Harlow or Keith Brown, but I did take a chance on the Cokes that were erroneously on my latest .38/44 OD...They appeared to have been dipped in a bucket of polyurethane for a few hours, then drip dried on the clothesline...The Goncalo Alves wood under the mess was nicely figured and no gouges or chips missing, so I thought I couldn't do any worse than the previous amateur...

I soaked them for a while in a sealed tub of acetone followed by a scrubbing with brushes to get the remaining patches off...I then hosed them down with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and rinsed them in the kitchen sink...When thoroughly dry I lightly sanded the rough spots to smooth it all out...

Next I rubbed them with True Oil and let them dry thoroughly...A coat of Howard's Feed-n-Wax and another of RenWax, and that was as far as I was willing to take it...Here's the result, good, bad or indifferent...They're in the middle in the family shot......Ben

Very nice job, Ben.
I’ve yet to get Coke bottles in my collection.
If I did, I they’d likely be a 29 no dash if I find one.

 

[Truckman]

I’ve yet to get Coke bottles in my collection.
If I did, I they’d likely be a 29 no dash if I find one.

Occasionally I'll come across an early .44 Magnum or 29 wearing ill fitting, inappropriate footwear...When I do and if I can coax its current caretaker to give up custody, I'll be prepared to make the little fellows feel welcome in their new homes...There's always room in my orphanage for new arrivals......Ben

 

[Retired W4]

Occasionally I'll come across an early .44 Magnum or 29 wearing ill fitting, inappropriate footwear...When I do and if I can coax its current caretaker to give up custody, I'll be prepared to make the little fellows feel welcome in their new homes...There's always room in my orphanage for new arrivals......Ben

For your inspiration, a 29 ND. There is always room for another 44 Magnum.

 

[cololab]

Question: Were the older diamond stocks originally finished with a low sheen or were they finished with a semi gloss or higher shine finish like the later '70s - '80s production stocks?

 

[Hawg Rider]

I've refinished a few set of stocks with good results. I don't like to soak in acetone because I think it tends to dry out the wood. I prefer to use a more eco-friendly water-based gel wood stripper (StripIt, Citristrip, Smart n' Easy, etc.) to quickly remove the old finish and any residual oils. I use an old tooth brush to clean around the checkering, screw holes, and medallions (if present). Rinse with water and let air dry. I only lightly sand if there are scratches or minor dings and dents to remove. I leave filling large chips and major damages and re-checkering to the experts. I'm not a big fan of the shiny poly finish and prefer a more matte oil finish, so I use Formby's Tung Oil Finish Low Gloss. Although it's not real tung oil, 3 or 4 light even coats provides a beautiful and durable finish that really shows off the wood's color and grain. I also tend to finish the stocks with some Ren Wax and a good buffing. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Vtgw938]

Question: Were the older diamond stocks originally finished with a low sheen or were they finished with a semi gloss or higher shine finish like the later '70s - '80s production stocks?

I believe the older stocks were finished with some kind of oil/shellac mix type finish so don't have the shiny plastic look of the 1970's and later stocks.

Like Hawg Rider I not a big fan of the shiny plastic look but I try to match the original finish which often is just that. Right now I'm working on a set of presentation stocks that had a very glossy and thick original lacquer finish. As is common with lacquer, they had a couple small chips in the finish and I wanted them perfect. So I stripped them and am applying a polyurethane finish to match the original.

 

[Model29-26.5]

I really kinda like both looks. High gloss always looks good. Nice and shiny. The low gloss “satin” finish as it would be in a paint tin certainly looks more classic.
As a preference I couldn’t really decide.
I may try getting a couple of pairs of beaten up stock if I can find them for a deal and see how they come out with both finishes.
I do have a pair that are a little worse for the wear but no wood missing and no dents that are a prime candidate.

 

[Model29-26.5]

“ I leave filling large chips and major damages and re-checkering to the experts.”

What is the re-checkering method?

I wish SW would start making their classic stocks again.
But you’d probably pay top $$ for them anyway.
I guess they’ve looked at the market and it’s not big enough to run a section where they’d do that.
I’m sure they still have the old jigs though.

 

[Hawg Rider]

“ I leave filling large chips and major damages and re-checkering to the experts.”

What is the re-checkering method?

I wish SW would start making their classic stocks again.
But you’d probably pay top $$ for them anyway.
I guess they’ve looked at the market and it’s not big enough to run a section where they’d do that.
I’m sure they still have the old jigs though.

A competent and qualified gunsmith usually has a set of checkering tools which he can use to recut the original checkering. There's usually enough wood remaining on the stocks to rechecker (recut the border and cut new points).

 

[H Richard]

I do the same as several above, but with Tru-Oil I use 4-5 coats. Dried for 24 hrs in between, lightly buffed with 0000 steel wool before next coat. After last coat, let dry for 7 days, rub out with Mothers wheel polish, (I used to use rotten stone slurry), which cuts the "Glossy" finish and imparts a softer shine. Then a couple coats of Renaissance Wax.

 

[Truckman]

I do the same as several above, but with Tru-Oil I use 4-5 coats. Dried for 24 hrs in between, lightly buffed with 0000 steel wool before next coat. After last coat, let dry for 7 days, rub out with Mothers wheel polish, (I used to use rotten stone slurry), which cuts the "Glossy" finish and imparts a softer shine. Then a couple coats of Renaissance Wax.

I'm a lot lazier than that, but it sounds worthwhile enough to try on my next project pair......Ben

 

[Bald1]

I’ve had great results with Formsby and a toothbrush. Wash well with soapy water and after drying use tru oil or tung oil

 

[bob richardson]

Stock Refinishing

I do the same as H Richard and Hawg Rider above.I sand with 400,600,& then 1,000 grit.Several coats of TRU-oil is a beautiful low gloss finish.For a high gloss I use BIG Swolls method of 70% gloss poly and 30% mineral spirits.For a satin finish I use Matte poly or you can use 0000 steel wool after your gloss or TRU-oil to soften the look.I wait a week and apply REN Wax to complete.I have done around 30 sets of stocks including "COKES" that needed a little help.Yeah,I know PICTURES,PICTURES.I'm not good at posting especially pics.

 

[dbracin]

i strip with acetone and finish with tung oil. i am quit happy with my results. I have done repairs with broken grips for the replacement wood. Take your time and results can be rewarding.