Reloading .308 with match and game bullets

KyleHines2005

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I have since delved into the world of reloading after much research. I have a Hornady Lock and Load single press and a Dillon RL550B. I will be loading my .308 on the single stage as I am particular about quality control. I have purchased Lapua Brass, Sierra 165gr game king soft point and 175gr match king with CCI #200 primers and IMR 4064 and 3031 powder. What would be good charge weights and CALs? I have a Remington Model 700 5R .308 Milspec with 1-11.25 twist rate. 24" barrel.


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There is nothing wrong.......

There is certainly nothing wrong with the components that you bought. Do you have a reloading manual? Any book or manufacturer's website should have loads for the weights/style bullets you have. Since you have Sierra bullets I'd recommend their manual or information.
 
4064 is a very highly recommended powder, Sierra lists it as one of their better performers. Try their manuel. For long range (600 yards +) use the 175's, the 168 and 165 poop out at about 800-850 yards. I use Sierra 155 Palma's in match brass with Varget. You might also look at Accurateloading.com, I got my 155 load there. 3031 is great for duplicating all manner of Military loads, and the Remington Custom Shop used to use it as accuracy loads in most custom rifles. Have fun Ivan
 
I have Hornadys reloading manual. They list Hornady bullets, but I'm looking to cross reference before I reload a few rounds.


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Also, do I resize my brass that is brand new? I've seen some online posts that say they resize, but do I need to stress a case that doesn't need to be?


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Yes, re-size your brass...I shot NRA High Power matches for many years with a .308 service rifle as well as a match rifle. Keep your velocity around the 2600-2700 fps and you will do well. Most of us tried to replicate M852 or M118 and called it good. IMR 4895 was used heavily for that As far as length I always set them to run at magazine length for use in my M1A. The .308 casing will last for a very long time.....
 
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You can look up loads on the hodgdon.com listings but......

the top loads should be worked up to very slowly since they are more than I ever used with 4064 and 3031.

You might try 41grs of 4064 with the 165gr for a accurate target load, at least in my Win. mod. 100 auto.

With a bolt action you can get a longer OAL, which might help out the accuracy of your target loads. .04"off the lands works in a lot of rifles but...........
these long loads may lock a bullet in the rifling in a strangers rifle, so don't pass on your "Specialty loads" to other shooters.
Nothing wrong with a factory oal, some work and shoot just as well as custom loads.

Good loading.
 
I would neck re-size the brass before loading, and check length , and trim if needed to ensure consistency. Personally, I use 4895 powder, but have heard a lot of guys like 4064. When experimenting for accuracy, you might want to try Federal Match primers. Each rifle is different, but I have several bolt actions that have shown a marked improvement when using these primers. I avoid them in loads for my M1a though as they are on the soft side for a semi-auto with a floating firing pin.

Larry
 
I shoot several 30-06 rifles and I load a 165gr GameKing for Deer and a 168gr MatchKing for the range. I do that because I don't need to change the powder weight or the scope in any way when shooting either. With a 175gr vs a 165gr bullet everything changes.
 
I would suggest that at some point in the future you experiment with lighter bullets that what you have right now. Because with a 1:11.25 twist rate you may find that heavier bullets don't produce exceptional accuracy in your rifle.

As for powder choices, IMR 4064 is one of the favorites for 308 and one that I use. Other options are Accurate 2495, the previously mentioned 4895, and also Varget. Overall lengths are dependent on 2 factors, one being the length of the bullet and the other being the chamber in your rifle. Those loading for 1000 yard matches have a preference for loading long enough so that the ogive of the bullet contacts the rifling and will use machinists bluing to find that length. For us average shooters who don't need that kind of accuracy we can use the bullet manufacturers recommendation. However, there is no harm at all in loading a bit longer than that recommendation as long as you have adequate neck length engagement or a difficult to engage bolt.

One item of gear you'll need to start looking for rather soon is a case length trimmer. Because rifle cases do grow in length and one thing that you should NEVER EVER do is reload a case that is over the maximum for case length. Because a long case can extend into the rifling beyond the chamber and when that happens the "pinch" between the rifling, case, and bullet can lead to a burst case when it's fired. One tip concerning this, if you find the bolt on your rifle won't close normally it's NOT a good idea to force it, instead take that particular round home, pull it down and see why it's so tight in your chamber.

Tip, you are using a bolt action rifle so take advantage of that fact. Specifically, after you have fire formed your brass do NOT use a full length sizing die unless/until you find the bolt getting "heavy". Instead use a Neck Sizing die because you'll get better accuracy by using fire formed cases AND you'll extend the life of your cases by working them less. In addition when using fire formed cases you'll find that the growth in case length is nearly zero.

BTW, any time I'm loading up a batch of fire formed brass I have two specific quick tests I do. One is take an empty casing and chamber in in my rifle to test for the "bolt lift". If I find it's become "tight" I'll test every case and set aside the "tight" cases. Note, keep your cases tracked by firing cycles, a tiny dimple on the case head from a center punch is great for tracking this. Second test is to check the case length to insure it's below the maximum case length spec.
 
I believe when you're just starting out you should full length resize everything. You will have plenty of other things to worry about and you don't need one more variable that could complicate the fit of the cartridge case in the chamber.

The case trimmer is absolutely necessary. You can get something simple or sophisticated depending on your level or patience of the thickness of your wallet.

There's nothing wrong with loading .308 or any other rifle cartridges on the Dillon. I suggest you trim and resize your brass prior to loading it on the Dillon. Once you are well versed in the Dillon it will turn out ammo every bit as good as a single stage press.

Dave Sinko
 
As for this plethora of information I have humbly received from all of you gentlemen, I still have a number of questions. As your terms do make sense with me, the experience in turning that into action has not evolved yet. How do I check how far my bullets are from the lands? Do I reference that off of a case gauge or have to take it to a gun smith? I have two .308s. One is a regular model 700 .308 with 1-10 twist. That's the one I was to develop hunting loads with with a mild powder charge as I never hunt beyond 200 yds. As for the match .308, I hope to shoot it around 300-400 yards and longer once I find a range that allows such. The scope that I have on it right now is something that it came with when I traded. Just a 3-9x50 and it's only good for about 300 yards. Maybe longer, but accuracy is compromised when the zoom and clarity is diminished. I want to put a Vortex Viper PST 50mm on it with 6-25 variable. That should exceed my capabilities with that rifle for now as it might be suitable for around 600 yards. I know Varget works well, but the guy that owned this rifle beforehand said he used Varget on a 175gr HPMK with 43.8gr and 2.842 oal. This seems to be 42 hundredths longer than my reloading book says is the max oal length. What do you guys know about this?


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That all depends on the amount of throat erosion that particular barrel has....more erosion in the throat means longer OAL....for me it is really simply....I use an M1A Super Match for most of my match shooting...SO...magazine length is MY solution....works well in my 40x Remington as well....this way I will never have a problem with the wrong length ammo in the wrong rifle....I've seen that more than once in matches...usually accompanied by some expletive deleted remarks!!
 
Buying Lapua or Norma brass means that primer pockets are already uniformed , flash holes deburred & about all that's left is sort by weight & trim all to length of shortest case . Excellent brass but costly . As previously noted with 11.25 twist rate the 175 & heavier bullets may not show great accuracy . IMHO for your intended purpose the 168 match & 165 hunting bullets would work best . I'd also buy some Redding bushing type neck size die with appropriate bushing(s) , a good quality straight line seating die like the Redding Competiton or Forester/Bonanza micrometer dies , a Redding Type S FL bushing sizer die . So many good powders like IMR/H4895 , IMR4064 , RL15 , BL-C(2) ,748 , N135 & N140 , Varget , AA2520 , IMR3031 & sometimes IMR4320 . FWIW Remington LR primers reduced group size over Fed GM & Win LR .
 
How do I check how far my bullets are from the lands? Do I reference that off of a case gauge or have to take it to a gun smith?

Very good question. I use a Hornady Overall Length (OAL) Gauge for determining how close my bullets are to the lands.

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I know Varget works well, but the guy that owned this rifle beforehand said he used Varget on a 175gr HPMK with 43.8gr and 2.842 oal. This seems to be 42 hundredths longer than my reloading book says is the max oal length. What do you guys know about this?

The 2.842" OAL was most likely derived by determining max OAL with the Hornady gauge (or another brand) and then tweaking bullet seating depth for the most accurate load.
 
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Cartridge gauge

I'm for resizing first off, but if you want to see if it can be avoided, use a .308 cartridge gauge. (Wilson makes dandy ones) If lucky you can just neck size and expand.

For a quick check you could just chamber the brass in your rifle.
 
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From what I have been able to glean from the M14 Forum, the following loads are what are recommended for Match and Long Range Match ammo. Close to duplicating USGI ammo.

Under 800 yds
168 Sierrra Match King (SMK) bullet
41.3 - 41.7 gr IMR4895
41.7 - 42.0 gr IMR4064
USGI cases
Federal 210M primer, but any large rifle primer will work
2.81" - 2.82" LOA

for over 800 yds
175 SMK
41.7 - 42.0 gr IMR4064
43.1 gr RL-15
USGI cases/Commercial cases use 42.5 gr IMR4064
Fed 210M primer
2.805" - 2.83" LOA
 

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