Reloading 40's

Gonefishing

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I have been reloading for quite a long time, and when obtaining bullets became difficult, I started casting my own, using a Lee .401-175-TC 6 gang mold and recycled bullet & wheel weight lead. Not complaining about the bullet, but my accuracy and group consistency leaves a lot to be desired. Out of 1100 cast bullets I am getting a wide weight spread from 183 gr. to 190 gr. My problem is finding loading data for the "in between weights, i.e. 183 - 184; 186 - 189. My powder of choice is Power Pistol and HS-6. Do any of you long time reloaders have any data on these off weight bullets. Open to suggestions within a limited budget!
 
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I don't reload the .40 but your question can be answered by just
sticking to standard handloading technique. If you want to use all of
your cast bullets just load all of your rounds as if all bullets were at
the top weight of 190 grs and fire away. What you call a wide weight
spread isn't really. Since you're using recycled lead your bullet alloy
surely will vary somewhat.
 
Do you have a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook? It has a lot of good information on casting, alloys, wt. variation etc. Sounds like you casting method is not the same from bullet to bullet.
 
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Open to suggestions within a limited budget!

Unless you are worried about making a certain power factor, load them as if all were full weight and shoot. It's a short-range pistol, not a rifle, and small variations in weight and speed aren't so important.

What "groups" are you trying to get, and how are you shooting the gun? Which gun? What accuracy do you get from commercially cast bullets? I standardized on FMJ for .40 Major because I didn't find any lead or plated bullets that would do USPSA head shots at 30 yds from a rest with my Brn HP. For a dinner plate at 10 yards, they were fine.
 
That small a at variation has no affect on pressures or accuracy for that matter, especially with those powders. I suspect your accuracy issues are bullet size related. Are you sizing the bullets? As cast size can vary up & down by 0.001". Are you using the worthless lfcd? This often sizes a good bullet too small during crimp. Seat a bullet, pull it & measure the bearing surface. If it is smaller than 0.401"? Undersized bullets rarely shoot well. If you are running full power loads, your alloy may not be up to the task. Try straight clip ww or water drop your current alloy.
 
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Thanks guys, your response to my question was very helpful. One question, I have heard the term but never really gave it any thought, but seeing it used in relation to reloading, my interest was perked - what is the "water drop" and how is it performed? don't mean to sound dumb, but in this case - yep, that's me!
 
In response to OKFC05, I set my standards pretty high, and would like to get my accuracy down to at least 86% in the 8,9 & 10 ring at 25 yards. I'll get there! Right now I would settle for for a consistent grouping that could be covered by a 5" circle at that range. I am shooting with a two hand stance, and benched with my Glock 22 in 40 & 357 Sig. Weapons of choice are the Glock, my RI 1911 in 45 ACP, Browning Hi Power FM in 9mm and my fall back on Ruger BH conv. in 357 mag and 9mm. Thanks for your response!
 
Gonefishing,
Water dropped bullets means you open your mold above a bucket of water and the bullets drop directly into the water. I use a towel draped over the sides of the bucket. That way I can lift the towel and pick up all the bullets without having to dump out all the water. The process of quenching the bullets very quickly is supposed to add surface harness to the bullet. Tests show that eventually over time, the harness goes away and the bullet is just as soft as if you air cooled them. I simply water drop because my 401-175-TC six cavity mold and bottom pour pot produces so many bullets so fast that they wouldn't fit on casting table. I then dump them on our patio mesh chair to dry out.
23518E27-3B28-45ED-BDE2-E734BA336344_zpsrrzwxfid.jpg


Power Pistol and HS-6 are pretty slow powders and need full house loads to get a good burn and consistent velocities. That does not help if you are recoil sensitive. I like medium to fast burning powders like Unique, Red Dot, Titegroup, Bullseye and try for loads in the 850-950 fps range. You can go quite a bit lower like 3.0g Red Dot or Clays and get "9mm feeling" recoil. Just be sure to wear a hat and eye protection because the cases will flop out only a few inches.
 
3gr of RD under a 176gr LTC is my 40 minor load. It is actually softer than factory 9mm.
 
I was thinking of ordering this mold, to cast for my 40's. How do you like the bullet? Any issues? Would size to .401, but was also wondering about using "as cast"? Comments appreciated :-)
 
I am shooting with a two hand stance, and benched with my Glock 22 in 40

would like to get my accuracy down to at least 86% in the 8,9 & 10 ring at 25 yards. I'll get there!

If you manage to do that with lead bullets in a .40 Glock, you will have done something I never managed to do at Major Power. Minor power with HP38, yes.

I suppose you are familiar with the caution about the stock Glock polygonal barrels and lead bullets? If they don't lead, OK, but if they do start to lead, it usually severely leads quickly and can be dangerous. Aftermarket barrels are available with conventional rifling.
 
Leading in factor barrel

Keeping a very close eye on this issue, so far to date I have not had any leading, only issue has been fouling after shooting 50 or so rounds, swab the barrel with a clean patch and continue shooting. To date I have not shot over 150 rounds without cleaning the gun. Thanks for the info!
 
I have the three Lee 40 cal molds. I got the 175 tc used and it gets the least use. The conventional lube 175 is much more accurate in my S&W sized at .401 and the Kahr gets the 145 Sized at .400. I used 6.5 gr power pistol for the 175 and consider it a 180 gr in most loading tables.
 
I know this doesn't sound right but....use the data listed for 175 grain bullets. My Lyman Cast Bullet #4 is at home, but I believe this Lee bullet is in the data. Don't weigh the bullet and try to find data for the actual weight, chances are you will find little or none. Stay away from maximum loads, unless you work up slowly. Usually a load between the minimum and maximum ( add them together and divide by 2) will be a good place to start. Adjust as needed from there, I find mid-range is usually a good load. The 401-175-TC is the conventional lube grooved bullet, not the tumble lube design , and should shoot fine with a little load tinkering. Try a faster powder, Red Dot , Bullseye, 700X, even Unique. The powders you list or on the slower side. Get the new Lyman #4 manual and check out what other powders will work. It's not the bullet.
Gary
 
I was thinking of ordering this mold, to cast for my 40's. How do you like the bullet? Any issues? Would size to .401, but was also wondering about using "as cast"? Comments appreciated :-)

When I first got this mold, I bought it without the Lee push through sizer. I simply tumble lubed them in 45/45/10 (a variation on Lee liquid Alox, but dries without being sticky) and seated them to 1.10" COL. That puts the cone even with the rim. I load very conservatively and 5g Unique or 4g Red Dot gives me low to mid 900 fps and stays well under max pressure.

I have since bought the sizer and by sizing to 0.401", I can now load to 1.135" and still chamber them in the tight M&P 40 chamber.

40PC_seated_zpsm4jmqucr.jpg
 
return thanks to mydads38, the info is most appreciated, and the rest of you, your input to my query has been most helpful, now to put all the gained information into making bullets. The next couple of days are going to be busy making up a batch of test rounds so that I can start making up bullets. Will get back to you all just as soon as I have some feedback to give you all on the results. Again Thanks!
 
I was thinking of ordering this mold, to cast for my 40's. How do you like the bullet? Any issues? Would size to .401, but was also wondering about using "as cast"? Comments appreciated :-)

As cast may work but if you use diff alloy all the time, the size will be all over the place. This can reek havoc in mixed brass cases.
 
If you manage to do that with lead bullets in a .40 Glock, you will have done something I never managed to do at Major Power. Minor power with HP38, yes.

I suppose you are familiar with the caution about the stock Glock polygonal barrels and lead bullets? If they don't lead, OK, but if they do start to lead, it usually severely leads quickly and can be dangerous. Aftermarket barrels are available with conventional rifling.

I shoot conventional cast lead bullets in my glocks all the time, stock bbl, just clean it more often. My G21 will do under 3" @ 25yds. It does shoot a bit better if I use coated at full power load levels.
 
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return thanks to mydads38, the info is most appreciated, and the rest of you, your input to my query has been most helpful, now to put all the gained information into making bullets. The next couple of days are going to be busy making up a batch of test rounds so that I can start making up bullets. Will get back to you all just as soon as I have some feedback to give you all on the results. Again Thanks!

Will be interesting to hear your results-good luck! :)
 
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