My wife is a wonderful woman. After these many (33) years of single-stage reloading, she decided that I needed progressive press. The long and the short of it is that a new Hornady LnL AP arrived last week. Since Saturday Ive been to sick with the flu and/or virus do much more than lie on the couch or bed. Now that I've managed to return to the land of the living, I'm considering how to mount my press for reloading. I have a nice heavy large desk that I plan to use. I cannot drill holes in it. So I figure to clamp a double layer of 3/4 inch plywood on top of the desk using C-clamps. I can let the plywood project over the edge of the desk by 6-8 inches. I can then drill holes in the plywood to bolt down the press. The most obvious plan would be to bolt the press to the plywood and operate it while sitting in a chair. I am wondering if it would be better to mount the press so that I could operate it while standing up? To do that is there some sort of metal plate available that I could use? Thoughts and suggestions will be appreciated. Sincerely. brucev.
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Reloading press mounting ideas?
- Thread starter brucev
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Ive recently set my presses up again and this time they're set to use standing.It's much easier on my back.A simple box structure out of 3/4 ply,screwed and glued might do the trick for you.
Twoboxer
Member
There's a tremendous amount of leverage using the press.
You can, however, mount it to 2 stacked pieces of 3/4" plywood overhanging a desk's edge . . . assuming you can clamp those sheets to the desk itself.
It will take 1 1/2" of plywood to cut out most of the flexing that would occur if you use only 3/4".
You can, however, mount it to 2 stacked pieces of 3/4" plywood overhanging a desk's edge . . . assuming you can clamp those sheets to the desk itself.
It will take 1 1/2" of plywood to cut out most of the flexing that would occur if you use only 3/4".
hangnoose
Member
re-loading bench
JMO, but plywood is not great for that type of use (with an overhang that long). I've been using a craftsman galvanized work bench with 8 drawers for 10+ years with great results, and you have a place for everything in the drawers. After building 2 different benches over the years the cost of lumber/hardware, time & effort is much more than the craftsman bench, + the craftsman is easily moved. whichever way you go securing it to wall studs and/or the floor is a help and RCBS makes those license plate sized metal press holders that work great & stiffen things up a lot.
JMO, but plywood is not great for that type of use (with an overhang that long). I've been using a craftsman galvanized work bench with 8 drawers for 10+ years with great results, and you have a place for everything in the drawers. After building 2 different benches over the years the cost of lumber/hardware, time & effort is much more than the craftsman bench, + the craftsman is easily moved. whichever way you go securing it to wall studs and/or the floor is a help and RCBS makes those license plate sized metal press holders that work great & stiffen things up a lot.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I agree with doubling up the 3/4" plywood. All the wooden "mounts I built were out of 2x10 or 2x12 (side boards from discarded waterbeds). The Idea off cantilevering out from the desk by up to 6" sounds like an opportunity to make a mess of things (think of Laurel & Hardy reloading), that would make a tremendous amount of stress on the desk top. I have a Dillion 550B on their "Strong mount" and a L-N-L AP on a second bench. The bench for the Hornady is 4" taller than my standard benches and reinforced under the Press with 2x4s side by side and still has a noticeable amount of flex. I wish I had used 2x10! I know you have limited space for such things! Also plan on making improvements after you have used it awhile. If the press is too low it kills your lower back, as you get too high, the lack of leverage exhausts you. It is a balance revolving around your body,and waist height. The type of handle makes a big difference also, that is why there are several after market handles.
Mine is a older model and has problems with the indexing sprocket adjusters. If you need to adjust your indexing, go slow and maybe make a diagram (and keep it with your instructions) and log all the "corrections" you make, the future You will thank the current You! Have fun cranking out big batches of stress relieving ammo. And say "Hello" to the flock from Ohio. Ivan
Mine is a older model and has problems with the indexing sprocket adjusters. If you need to adjust your indexing, go slow and maybe make a diagram (and keep it with your instructions) and log all the "corrections" you make, the future You will thank the current You! Have fun cranking out big batches of stress relieving ammo. And say "Hello" to the flock from Ohio. Ivan
MichiganScott
Member
I've reloaded since 1974. For the first couple of years, I had the press bolted to an old work bench and loaded standing up. For the last 35 years, I've had my press either bolted to or C-clamped on various tables or desks that were just the right height to work while sitting down.
I view handloading as a relaxing hobby and do most of mine during the six to seven months my range is snowed in. There is no way I will ever load standing up again if I can avoid it.
I view handloading as a relaxing hobby and do most of mine during the six to seven months my range is snowed in. There is no way I will ever load standing up again if I can avoid it.
Unlike the Dillon 650, the Lock n Load AP does not need to overhang the desk at all. You can countersink the bolt heads in your sheet of plywood to clear the surface of the desk. You could also use threaded inserts or t-nuts (probably my choice) in the lower sheet of plywood.
Chris
Chris
Sailormilan2
Member
My reloading bench is made from two pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together, and it mounts a Hornady Progressive. Previous to that, it had a RCBS Rockchucker. I've had no problems.
I have just changed something on my Hornady. Hornady uses a small red plastic tray to catch the loaded ammo. I've had problems with loaded rounds bouncing off the bottom of the empty tray and onto the floor. Also, the small tray won't hold may rounds. Soooo, I went to Office Max (Office Depot has the same thing) and got a black,stackable tray, and slipped it into place where the red tray used to sit. Then I got a 4" angle bracket(I should have gotten a 5"), and mounted it to the edge of the bench using one wood screw. This is a support that goes under the bin. The new bin is about 3 times larger overall than the old one. About 11"x5+"x5". The old one was 5"x4"x4". It works sooooooo much better, and only cost me $6 after taxe.
I have just changed something on my Hornady. Hornady uses a small red plastic tray to catch the loaded ammo. I've had problems with loaded rounds bouncing off the bottom of the empty tray and onto the floor. Also, the small tray won't hold may rounds. Soooo, I went to Office Max (Office Depot has the same thing) and got a black,stackable tray, and slipped it into place where the red tray used to sit. Then I got a 4" angle bracket(I should have gotten a 5"), and mounted it to the edge of the bench using one wood screw. This is a support that goes under the bin. The new bin is about 3 times larger overall than the old one. About 11"x5+"x5". The old one was 5"x4"x4". It works sooooooo much better, and only cost me $6 after taxe.
Moonman
Member
Look at an ULTRAMOUNT from inlinefabrication.
You can mount the Ultramount to your plywood then C-Clamp everything
to your bench if you wish.
You can mount the Ultramount to your plywood then C-Clamp everything
to your bench if you wish.
Metal Mounting Plate
I too have used everything from the kitchen table to my current bench which is a commercial workbench that I have commandeered from the shop floor of the machine shop that we own. I prefer setting the height so that I can use a stool to sit on. After back surgery precipitated by a nasty fall I find that my back is quite sensitive to position and being able to work at some height is easier on it.
My real contribution to this discussion is that I took a piece of rolled rolled steel (CRS) and drilled and tapped it for each of my reloading presses. My bench already had a couple of holes which I then used to mount the plate too. I retain the ability to quickly change out presses while conserving bench space. Do not panic at the thought of drilling and tapping it can all be done on a bench type drill press or even by hand. You do need to use a cutting oil to tap…even in aluminum.
I prime using a RCBS bench mounted tool. I fabricated a plate for it as well that simple clamps itself to the bench allowing me to place it where it is most convenient or removing it when necessary.
It is obvious that I prefer to work with metals but then my employees say that I have a 7,000 square foot Man Cave filled with metal working machines. The point is that the threads in a tapped hole even in aluminum will handle significantly more torque than any wood and can be removed, installed, removed, installed ad nauseam.
If you mount to wood I would suggest closely drilled holes and carriage bolts pressed into from the underside. The square portion of the head will grip the bolt allowing you to install your press(es) with washers and nuts. You can countersink for the heads of the carriage bolts so it does not damage your table top if you do not want an overhang. The third option is to use a steel threaded insert for the wood that is available at the big box hardware stores.
I am not in the habit of posting on forums but stumbled on this while looking for information on loading for the S&W M52. Here is wishing you success on your project.
WEH
I too have used everything from the kitchen table to my current bench which is a commercial workbench that I have commandeered from the shop floor of the machine shop that we own. I prefer setting the height so that I can use a stool to sit on. After back surgery precipitated by a nasty fall I find that my back is quite sensitive to position and being able to work at some height is easier on it.
My real contribution to this discussion is that I took a piece of rolled rolled steel (CRS) and drilled and tapped it for each of my reloading presses. My bench already had a couple of holes which I then used to mount the plate too. I retain the ability to quickly change out presses while conserving bench space. Do not panic at the thought of drilling and tapping it can all be done on a bench type drill press or even by hand. You do need to use a cutting oil to tap…even in aluminum.
I prime using a RCBS bench mounted tool. I fabricated a plate for it as well that simple clamps itself to the bench allowing me to place it where it is most convenient or removing it when necessary.
It is obvious that I prefer to work with metals but then my employees say that I have a 7,000 square foot Man Cave filled with metal working machines. The point is that the threads in a tapped hole even in aluminum will handle significantly more torque than any wood and can be removed, installed, removed, installed ad nauseam.
If you mount to wood I would suggest closely drilled holes and carriage bolts pressed into from the underside. The square portion of the head will grip the bolt allowing you to install your press(es) with washers and nuts. You can countersink for the heads of the carriage bolts so it does not damage your table top if you do not want an overhang. The third option is to use a steel threaded insert for the wood that is available at the big box hardware stores.
I am not in the habit of posting on forums but stumbled on this while looking for information on loading for the S&W M52. Here is wishing you success on your project.
WEH
Jamesatrange
Member
i have the lock and load as well and used 2 pieces of 3/4 oak. i bolted my press to the and left them long. I then c clamped them to the metal bench and used my lead bullets and some iron weights on the longer end of the oak to help weigh it down. The clamps alone would be fine but I have the lead and iron weight so why stress the clamps as much. i do like the guys idea of counter sinking the bolts so I can put my press closer to the bench but it works fine as is and i load sitting down. Good luck you'll like the press.
scattershot
Member
I have my Dillon permanently mounted to half of a solid core door. I C- clamp this to my workbench, and store it out of the way when I'm done. I don't have any overhang, and I'm wondering if the plywood overhang you mention would be stout enough to stand the tremendous leverage of the press over time. The plywood should work, just without the overhang.
Good luck!
Good luck!
SgtLumpy
Member
I think there are two major concerns with mounting any press -
1) The tremendous leverage, that others have mentioned, imparted into the bench when you operate the ram
2) The height of the press/ram handle/shell plate as you operate the thing, either standing or sitting
I'll only address the second one, the HEIGHT concern...
When operating the press, you want to be able, obviously, to comfortably (EFFICIENTLY) cycle the press handle from top to bottom. Most presses involve a pretty long "throw". And it takes not only a reasonable amount of force, but the ability to "feel" the die moving over the case, primer seating etc. And most critical is that you will do that movement a bazillion times.
I suggest, place your new press on stacked cardboard boxes, milk crates, ammo cans, anything, to experiment with height settings. Set it at some height and then cycle the ram arm. You'll need someone else to help hold the press in place while you do that. But one way or another, IMAGINE making that arm and body movement over and over again while you're sitting or standing, whichever you prefer. Stick a little slab of plywood under your stack of boxes and see what it's like 3/4 inches higher. Take something out of the stack and see what it's like lower etc. Find the spot where you think it's ideal for your body movement to be most efficient in cycling that one armed bandit.
The other height concern is being able to SEE into the case that's been charged with powder, prior to seating a bullet. Moving your press up or down an inch or two will vary your ability to see that powder charge. You MUST be able to verify the powder in the case visually. A good press height will allow you to do that in a fraction of a second. A poor press height will force you to move your body a lot to get to a spot where you can see the powder.
Here's my pics from another thread. Stacked slabs of 3/4 plywood make up the riser for my press. I can remove or add slabs if I want to make the press sit higher or lower -
I personally prefer to stand while operating the press. The ram handle is much easier to operate using my entire upper body than it is using just my one arm movement (like a slot machine). But everyone is different. Stand, sit, whatever you do, it's important to find an ergonomically efficient way to make it happen. Because you'll be making it happen over and over and over again.
Sgt Lumpy
1) The tremendous leverage, that others have mentioned, imparted into the bench when you operate the ram
2) The height of the press/ram handle/shell plate as you operate the thing, either standing or sitting
I'll only address the second one, the HEIGHT concern...
When operating the press, you want to be able, obviously, to comfortably (EFFICIENTLY) cycle the press handle from top to bottom. Most presses involve a pretty long "throw". And it takes not only a reasonable amount of force, but the ability to "feel" the die moving over the case, primer seating etc. And most critical is that you will do that movement a bazillion times.
I suggest, place your new press on stacked cardboard boxes, milk crates, ammo cans, anything, to experiment with height settings. Set it at some height and then cycle the ram arm. You'll need someone else to help hold the press in place while you do that. But one way or another, IMAGINE making that arm and body movement over and over again while you're sitting or standing, whichever you prefer. Stick a little slab of plywood under your stack of boxes and see what it's like 3/4 inches higher. Take something out of the stack and see what it's like lower etc. Find the spot where you think it's ideal for your body movement to be most efficient in cycling that one armed bandit.
The other height concern is being able to SEE into the case that's been charged with powder, prior to seating a bullet. Moving your press up or down an inch or two will vary your ability to see that powder charge. You MUST be able to verify the powder in the case visually. A good press height will allow you to do that in a fraction of a second. A poor press height will force you to move your body a lot to get to a spot where you can see the powder.
Here's my pics from another thread. Stacked slabs of 3/4 plywood make up the riser for my press. I can remove or add slabs if I want to make the press sit higher or lower -
I personally prefer to stand while operating the press. The ram handle is much easier to operate using my entire upper body than it is using just my one arm movement (like a slot machine). But everyone is different. Stand, sit, whatever you do, it's important to find an ergonomically efficient way to make it happen. Because you'll be making it happen over and over and over again.
Sgt Lumpy
