Reloading Rookie

BullShooter

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Need some advice guys. Lets assume I know nothing about reloading, because I don't.:D
I really enjoy taking my 4506 45ACP to the range. I've been thinking I could save myself some money on Ammo if I learned to reload and did it myself.
Looking online did nothing but confuse me. OMG are there a lot of choices to make.
No idea what Press to get what Powder to use, ect, ect ,ect.
Please point me in the right direction. If I'm going to do this I'm going to do it right and safely.
 
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The way I started was to buy one of the nearly complete sets that have the single stage press, scales, etc. I bought the RCBS Rock Chucker but the other brands are just as good I hear. It came with an up to date reloading manual and I bought several more and read them over and over and over. I also talked to members of the South Bay Rod and Gun Club that is in the San Diego area and since I am sort of older than many, I could tell when someone was BS'n or having rants about things and those folks I let their info pass. I started with 308 and that proved to not be the best caliber since it is a little more finicky but the newly reloaded bullets went bang and I was happy. The accuracy was nowhere near what factory match stuff is but I had fun. I have since added .223, 38 spl, 357 and 40 S&W and they all work well. There were several rules I learned from some others and the books and they are:

- Read the books and start the powder charge low and work up.
- Do not reload if tired, mad or otherwise distracted.
- Set up a dedicated reloading area, I use a large B&D Workmate.
- Get a safe or explosive proof box for the powder and primers and keep that away from things like hot water heaters or other sources of fire.
- Carbide dies are the best way to go even though they are more expensive initially they make the pistol cases much easier to do.
- I buy in bulk such as 10,000 wadcutters, 10,000 primers, etc and the cost per round is low.
- Always use the full case sizer dies especially on .223 and .308 and other rifle shells.
- Buy the tumbling media at a pet store or Walmart (walnut shells) and replace 25% or so at a time, it is cheaper this way.
- Mail order is your friend if there are no local reloading suppliers. I like Missouri Bullet Co. for wadcutters, Brownells and Midway USA for parts and such and I buy the powder and primers at the local gun shows here in So Cal.
Good luck and I think you'll find that reloading is a ton of fun.
 
In addition to the reloading manuals put out by the bullet and powder manufacturers (you should get more than one) an excellent introduction to the process and basic equipment is a soft cover book called "The ABC's of Reloading." Check Amazon.com or similar for the most recent edition. They usually carry it at places like Sportsmen's Warehouse, Bass Pro, etc,
 
Almost any press will do, for a while.
I started in the late '70s with a Lee Turret press. I added a Lee C Press later and use them both to speed up depriming, belling, and loading operations.
Lee sells starter kits with most of the stuff you need too.
I am working my way up to trying a Dillon Square Deal B, a progressive press.

I have a mix of dies. Most are Lees, but I have a couple of RCBS and one set of Hornadys.

I loaded thousands of rounds of .45 for NRA target matches and and bowling pin shooting. The first powder I used was Bullseye and I am still using when loading target loads for my son to shoot in matches. Most of my bowling pin loads were made with Unique and I am still using it for plinking and steel plate loads. Lots of folks use other powders to load .45s. I've only tried a couple and didn't like them as much as Unique and Bullseye.

I started out using CCI Large Pistol primers, then got a real deal on Remington LPs, and used them for several years. Now I am using Winchester primers. They all worked well for me.

You may not save money in the long run, but you should be able to shoot more for the same money.
 
All good advice.
And there ARE a lot of choices one can make.
Then there are some people who just don't like to reload.

Information is vital to the reloader, and you really need to read a basic loading manual or three and learn the principles involved. NRA has a generic loading book that is excellent, and there is an NRA loading course, which is not available in all areas.

A willing mentor to help you is GOLD! Then you can use their equipment and work through the basics with them watching and helping you. That way, you can learn enough to choose the equipment that suits your loading volume, budget, and personality.
 
WOW!! Lots of good advice guys. Thank You Much!!:)
ABC's Of Reloading, I'll look for that book. Wonder if my local Gander Mountain has it.
I'm well aware I have much to learn to do this right. I wish there was somebody in my area I knew that reloaded and would take on a humble student.
Can you suggest a good mid priced starter set up for pistol ammo? If I do this and it goes well I may look into reloading rounds for my rifles and shotgun. For now just pistol ammo to get me started.
 
These guys are giving a lot of good advice. I started reloading about 3 years ago. I started by talking to guys I work with subscribing to Handloader and Shooting Times magazines. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Reloaders love to talk about reloading. It is a completly different hobby that feeds your shooting hobby. I don't think it has actually saved me any money but instead of shooting 50rds. I shoot 150 to 200rds.
I started and still use a Lee Aniversary Kit. It is now called the Aniversary Breech Lock kit and doesn't come with the manual. It is a cheap single stage kit but I have loaded 1000's of rounds with it without any problems. It has everything to get started except the manual and dies.
I mostly use Lee carbide dies and highly recommend them. I have a set of rcbs .44 carbide dies and they don't work any better. I think the Lee's are easier to adjust and come with the shell holder and load information.
I like Lee's deluxe rifle die sets too because they come with a carbide neck sizer, full length sizer, and seating die for the price of most two die sets.
If you are starting out on .45 acp I recommend Missouri Bullet Co. for lead bullets that are cheap. I also used Raineer Ballistics for cheap fmj's. My self defense loads are Hornady xtp.
My choice in powder is Hodgdon. I use Hodgdon because the closest gun dealer to me usually has it stocked up. They don't carry a lot of alliant or vita vouri or any other powder on hand. Also Hodgdon has an excellent reloading data center on its website. I like "Tite Group" and IMR "Trail Boss" both meter pretty well out of the cheap powder measure and burn clean.
As far as primers go I used to only use CCI large pistol primers in my .45 acp because that is what Lee recommended you use in their hand primer that comes in the kit. They say Federal primers can go off because the cups aren't as thick and the priming compound is more volatile. But during and after the ammo and supply drought I started using any large pistol primer I could get my hands on. I run my practice ammo at the staring loads so changing primers doesn't really make a difference.
Also I buy my primer and powder from my gun dealer. If you buy them online or through a catalog you will eat up all your savings paying the hazmat shipping charges. I mostly buy my bullets off the internet. A lot of times it will save me up to $3-$5 a box if I go through midway and buy enough to make up for the shipping charges
I know this was long winded but I hope it Helped.
 
As some have already mentioned, find somebody who is a reloader and spend a little time with them. Seeing the reloading process and having somebody answer your questions is a good way to start! It is a great hobby that you can enjoy throughout your life.
 
As some have already mentioned, find somebody who is a reloader and spend a little time with them. Seeing the reloading process and having somebody answer your questions is a good way to start! It is a great hobby that you can enjoy throughout your life.

Amen to that.

If possible, contact you local gun club (if you already aren't a member) or talk to your shooting buddies and see who has a set up...preferably go and see several sets up that use presses from different manufacturers.

I will say this, after getting the "ABC's of reloading" get a Speer manual, Hornady Manual and a Lyman Reloading book. Books first will save you a lot of trouble and money in the long run.

Heck, there are many videos on youtube nowadays that show the reloading processes- either single stage or progressive.

I started out with an inherited single stage many, many years ago. When I got back into shooting, I found my old single stage was just too darn slow and got a progressive Hornady for both my rifle and pistol needs simply because it is faster- but more to go wrong.

Learn the basics, be careful and have fun.
 
I'd been lurking here for some time as a guest before I joined up. I knew this was a very active Forum and the Members all seem eager to help any way they can.
THANK YOU!!! Again for all the help and advice. I have read every word of of it.
I agree with what some have said. I probaly will shoot more if I'm reloading my own but I'll have a new hobby and enjoy shooting and hunting even more knowing I made the ammo.

Lee seems to be the setup of choice. I will look into a Lee Anniversary Breech Lock Kit. Thanks for the tip. A single stage kit will be just fine with me for now. I just want to make enough pistol ammo to keep me and Mrs. BullShooter going. After I've had some time and practice and feel comfortable doing it I may try my hand at reloading for my 30.06 and 7mm Rem. Mag.

What would be a good powder choice for 9mm, .40 S&W, and 45 ACP? Is there one that would cover it all? I plan to reload FMJ and JHP for all 3. Having to switch powder for a different round may get confusing untill I get some time in.

Where are you guys getting your primers? Everywhere I look online is sold out.

I plan on buying Remington +P Nickel Cases.
Remington Brass 45 ACP +P Nickel Plated - MidwayUSA
They are good quality and figure they will be a safe choice if I get a touch to much powder in one.
Is my logic sound? Your opinions Please.
 
Like I said before I like Hodgdon powder because it is what I can get. I looked at their data center and some powders they list for all three calibers are 231, Universal (actually called Universal clays), Tite Group, HP-38, and Autocomp. These three calibers have a lot of powder that will work well between the 3 of them because they are all short pistol rounds that need a fast powder to get good pressure and velocity. If you are going to leave the powder in the measure and change between calibers double and triple check your charge weights before during and after loading!!! These are fast buring powders and a small change in charge weight can take a load from the starting load to well beyond a max charge.
Another thing that I do is I only reload 50-100 pistol rounds at a time. When I try to do more I get tired and bored and that makes me distracted. So I will do 50 or 100 take a break get a drink watch a little tv and then go do 100 more. It makes it seem less of chore and more of a fun thing to do.
I use whatever cases I can find that are in stock. If I could I would always buy starline cases because they are usually the cheapest and are good cases. But here lately eveything is backordered so I just take what I can get.
The only thing I can suggest about primers is just keep checking in with your local dealers and buy as soon as they get them. If you buy online It will cost like $40 a 1000 and will be like $30 to ship.
 
The critical piece of equipment that does not come with one of those kits is a caliper. Make sure you get one of those and pay attention to your cartridge OAL.
 
The critical piece of equipment that does not come with one of those kits is a caliper. Make sure you get one of those and pay attention to your cartridge OAL.

Yeah, I was just looking at the Lee setup on Midway USA.
It did say the caliper is not included. Thanks for the heads up tho.
Not as much as I thought it would be. I can get the equipment I want for all three calibers for about $250.00 with shipping. I can live with that.:)

Also checked out Hodgdons website and downloaded the 75 page reloading manual.
 
Welcome to the ADDICTION! (Hopefully!)

I enjoy reloading/handloading/casting almost as much as I do shooting.

That "new" this or "new" that. From presses to bullets to primers to powder. I really like to reload/handload/cast.

The first thing you need to do is evaluate your ammunition needs/wants.

Pistol only or rifle mixed in. There are machines out there that will only do pistol cartridges and they are some of the best available. There are others that you can load calibers from the .17 something special to the 500Mag. It all depends on your specific needs.

You may only want to shoot 50 rounds a month. Nothing wrong with that but, you can rule out one of the more expensive machine, unless you are independently wealthy, as you need neither the volume nor the expense of that kind of equipment.


*Machines
I can tell you what I would do knowing what I know now. I would invest in either a Dillon RL550 or a Hornady L-N-L AP to start on.

Both will give you years of good service, they can load either handgun or rifle cartridges and they aren't all that expensive when you figure how much you can save on ammunition.

Personally, I prefer the "auto indexing" feature of the L-N-L, but many, many folks here on the forum use an RL550 and are very happy with them.


*Powder

Now this is going to sound real scientific on how to pick your powder.




Find out what is stocked locally first! That will save you a bunch of "up front" money. You can buy a 1lb can at a time and try several powders before you decide on just one. Guess what, there are a lot of good powders out there that will fit your needs, regardless of what the "ford only" or "chevy rules" type of guys say.

My personal favorite in the 45ACP, and it is the powder I started with, is Bullseye. W231/HP-38 or AA#2 or several other powders will meet your needs very nicely. Check to see which ones are available in your area.

*Other Components

Use the same strategy outlined in the powder section of this post to start out with. It will give you a point of contact with someone you may be able to ask questions of later. Some gun store folks don't have a clue, others are quite knowledgeable.

Primers are primers unless you have a gun with a "tuned" or lightened action. There are 4 types, for pistol, for the most part. Small pistol, small pistol magnum, large pistol and large pistol magnum. Use the one recommended by the powder manufacturer.

You should have cases from the previous shooting you have done.

Bullets are the last component to talk about. Again, use what can be obtained locally, TO START WITH. You can buy in smaller quantities, 50-100, to try stuff out, get the feel of things. Then, I would suggest getting your lead bullets from Tennessee Valley Bullets . Great folks and they have a lot of things they can vary just for you.

Now that I have confused you totally, feel free to "PM" me and I'll see if I can't explain things better, one on one, so to speak!
:D
 
Bull shooter, you have surely gotten some good advice. +1 on the Dillon 550B recommendation if you think you would go to volume shooting. It is an uncomplicated, easy to adjust press that will last forever.

If you are certain you only want a single station press, consider the Forster Bonanza. I have loaded for nearly 50 years and finally got one a year ago. I never knew what I was missing. I have 3 other expensive presses that are now laying on the floor in the corner, never to be used again.
 
Hmmmm More food for thought.
Do I buy a single stage now ,discover I like reloading and then buy a multi later. I've then spent money on two units instead of one. Kinda puts a damper on the saving money thing. Or do I spend the money now for a multi and discover later that I'd rather just buy my ammo. Decisions Decisions:confused:
 
Bullshooter:
Most of the guys I know who have progressive presses also have single stage presses set up.

They use the progressives for turning out quantities of proven loads.

The single stage presses are used for experimental loads or small batches that aren't worth converting a progressive to make.

It doesn't have to be, and usually isn't, an either/or deal.
 
I have been reloading for a very long time, during that time I have helped (?) several guys get started.
First Advice as given above, read a bunch, Lyman has a Pistol and Revolver Handbook which covers the bases.
Any source you can lay hands on is worth reading.

At first keep it simple.
Start with the .45 ACP if you shoot it a lot. Many handgun Loaders started with .38 or .45,
Get a low cost single stage press, you will always find use for it latter; you don't need much of a press for most handgun loads.
Get good quality carbide dies for your choice of caliber. Get a Lee Taper Crimp die if your choice is .45,
Get a good quality scale,
Get an inertial bullet puller,
Get a quality powder measure designed for small quantities of powder,
Get a good dial caliper,

If your start is the .45,
Start with a 200gr SWC Missouri Bullet is an excellent source.
I suggest that people start with Red Dot, because it is low cost, very available, and its density makes mistakes more difficult. Buy a pound, it will get you through about 1400 rounds, then you will no longer be a beginner.
 
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