Remington Nylon 66 Rust

[martyd]

IMHO the Nylon 66 is the best 22lr rifle made for sportsmen for several valid reasons.

That said; everytime I go to a gun show there are several for sale. Each has rust on the blued metal clamshell portion of the gun.

Heads Up:
The clamshell "is the receiver" even though it does not have any moving parts in it, it has the serial number on it so that is why the ATF classified it as the receiver. If you can find a clamshell for sale and you want to be compliant it must be sent by an FFL to an FFL.

My Nylon 66 even with constant oiling still starts rusting and over time the dull rust rough finish is permanent.

There is a nickel model of the Nylon 66 which does not seem to have the same rusting problem.

My theory on why all these rifles are rusty:
- The clamshell has a brushed finish and is blued.
- The blue is not deep and scratches very easily.
- Also you carry the rifle by holding the clamshell part of the rifle with your hand.

Requesting suggestions to stop the rusting on the clamshell.
- Would polishing smooth and do deep penetrating rebluing be helpful?

I sadly guess there is no way to stop the rusting with any kind of blue job due to the carrying the rifle with your bare hands.

I do not want to really do it; but Cerakote Finish may be the only solution.

For those of you who are not sure what the Nylon 66 is I have attached a photo of mine.

Also is a photo of the mostly permanent rust area in the close-up of of the clamshell, rust is on the forward edge of the clamshell.

Thank you for your input and suggestions,
MartyD

 

[murphydog]

Perhaps waxing the area will be a better rust barrier? It would probably not come off as easily as regular oil.

 

[2152hq]

The recv'r covers do seem to rust easily on the Nylon 66.
I've never seen any info related to why, or at least any guesses as to why they seem to on that particular model.
You can almost be assured that the cover on one will show some rust now.

The cover is a 'spring steel' (as opposed to a dead soft annealed steel) and stamped into it's three sided form.
Perhaps the steel alloy being what it is has something to do with it. If it's a high(er) carbon steel , it may be more less rust resistant and also not as acceptive of the hot salt blue treatment as a lower carbon steel.

My other 'theory' is that something in the make up of the plastic stock, perhaps some chemical given off as the plastic ages and deteriorates,,makes the steel rust.

All just my personal theorys & thoughts of course..Lots of stuff rattles around in my mostly empty noggin.



The cover & bbl can be easily stripped of the rust and old finish and reblued.
I would etch, or more easily lightly bead blast the metal. Then Rust Blue the cover for a better wearing blue and one that holds oil better.

I'm not a big fan of the Cerakote & other paint type finishes, but they may be a decent choice here.

Also a parkerize finish to the metal would also be a good choice for rust resistance.. Do the bbl as well.

Keep the ser# legible.. If it has one.

-Pre 1967 mfg Model 66 were not Ser#'d. They did not need to be under then Fed Regs.

--1967 & '68 mfg'r rifles were Ser#'d on the bottom of the Barrel just back from the muzzle.

---Beginning 1969 The ser# was moved to the Recv'r Cover on the left side.

Simple stamped steel recv,r cover is considered the 'firearm' on the Nylon 66 so it carrys the Ser#.


I had a 66 I bought new in the early 60's. I never really liked that rifle. Not at all accurate even with a Weaver scope. Me shooting or anyone else.
Should'a bought the Ruger 10-22,, that was my other choice at the time.
Both were right around $50 new then.

Sold the 66 at some point,,never did buy a Ruger 10-22 either.

 

[Bald1]

I don’t know about best…. Definitely the ugliest. Back in the day a cousin had one. We all thought it was plastic junk. Guess it was just ahead of it’s time.

 

[double-dipper]

Agree to disagree Martyd, "the Nylon 66 is the best 22lr rifle made for sportsmen"

I would take a Ruger 10/22 over the Nylon 66 any day.

 

[bluetopper]

Mom bought Dad a Seneca Green Nylon 66 for Christmas in 1960 or 61. I still have it.

 

[ViperR]

Something else to keep an eye out for.....there could be rust on the inside of the shell as well to tend to. The cover comes off pretty easily having had a couple in my day.

 

[martyd]

I thank all of you for your input.

I have a Ruger 10/22 which I had customized for silhouette shooting.

Overall the 10/22 is a better made rifle.

However, with only barrel cleaning required with the 66 and its weather and physical abuse qualities makes it a great rifle (you do not oil the innards).

As to accuracy, mine is quite accurate to 50 yards but falls off past that. It is picky with ammo and accuracy.

 

[PALADIN85020]

I've been collecting these for years - all the Remington Nylon rifles. Any rifle left uncared for will rust. I've never had any unusual problems with the Nylons in that regard. A once-a-year wipedown with a lightly oiled rag is all that's required unless you are in a very humid environment.

The very first 66 I ever bought was a beater, and it was filled with sand as though it had been left on a beach. I opened it up, blew the internal sand away with a can of WD-40, and it ran like a top. I then converted it into my "tacticool rifle" with a scope, sling and a flash supressor. It's easily minute-of-jackrabbit-head accurate and still unfailingly reliable. The finish is a bit rough from its previous lack of care, but it works every time. I'm a great fan of the breed.

John

 

[dfariswheel]

The main reason for rusting covers is because the rifles were marketed as needing little maintenance.
Since people tend not to care for inexpensive .22 rifles, they usually got NO maintenance and rust is common.
The cover is hardened steel with a standard hot salts blued finish, and that will rust, just like a fine handgun if not cared for.
Don't care for it....rust.

Of the options to prevent rusting, the cheapest would be a good "paint type" gun finish like Cerakote or Gun Kote, or probably the ultimate finish of a hard chrome plating.

Many of the hard chrome processors offer special pricing for parts, so you might get a cover done for a lower cost.

Simply having a "better" blue finish done will offer little actual protection, since the only real difference between a "cheap" blue job and a "good" blue job is how well the metal is polished.
The actual bluing is exactly the same.

 

[JOliver]

I would agree with Viper
I'm not all that familiar with the 66s although I have owned a few over the years they never were my thing.I'm with double-dipper my vote is for the Ruger 10-22 and I'm a huge Winchester 74 Fan (if you never had one try one out they're tack drivers I own about a dozen currently but I wouldn't vote for it being "the best" just fun and super accurate")
My opinion there are tons of great .22s I love them. When I was younger that's what my Grandfather and Dad always gave me for Christmas and I was so ready to get a big gun,.308,30-06, anything other than an old .22.
As I'm older now I have more fun buying,shooting,piddling with .22s than I do the "big rifles".

I would think the metal being used was on the inexpensive side and that would help the rust make a nice home. I would also think the lack of wood and the majority being plastic would prevent the moisture having somewhere to escape verses other rifles of their day.
A nice polish and blue would definitely help in preventing rust I would check out the internals. The one picture you have definitely looks like it's coming out from the inside- possibly.
I would also consider that the many coatings that are available the metal can still rust under it since it is just that a coating.
I would definitely lean more towards polishing it up and blueing it and then good maintenance should help eliminate the issue.
I'd also check those internals out, rust loves friends to attach too!

 

[rosewood]

Hmm, you guys bring up an interesting question. If the serialized portion of the firearm is the "firearm". What if you have one that is pre-67 and doesn't have a serial number. Is it therefore not a "firearm"?

Rosewood

 

[raljr1]

Hmm, you guys bring up an interesting question. If the serialized portion of the firearm is the "firearm". What if you have one that is pre-67 and doesn't have a serial number. Is it therefore not a "firearm"?

Rosewood

Nice try....

 

[cmansguns]

They all have a serial number....somewhere!

I have two Nylon 66 rifles. The pictured one is Seneca Green, with date code PG (June 1960) and barrel serial number 61876. The Seneca Green was discontinued in 1962.

My other one is Mohawk Brown, date code RP (November 1967). The barrel serial number is 408104, which has its own story. The October 1967 Nylon 66 barrel serial numbers started at 400000, and 3 months later (December 1967) ended with 419011. After that starting in January 1968 ALL serial numbers were on the "receiver" cover (the clamshell) per the GCA requirement.

Neither of mine show rust, and they have been used by 3 generations...lightweight, fast, fun, accurate as heck for plinking or whistle-pigs at 50 yds or so if you are patient and stealthy in your approach to ones on the edge of the tree line/pasture.

Ahead of their time??? You bet..they were dropped from production about 1991..just about in time for fantastic plastic pistols to come on the scene. Too bad...I would have bought one for each of the kids if I'd have known where they would be priced at in 2022

 

[rosewood]

Nice try....

I wasn't trying to be smart, just wondering what category that falls into.

How could a FFL do a transfer of a gun with no serial number?? There is no way to prove it is the same gun.

Rosewood

 

[cmansguns]

they ALL have a serial number on the firearm

Rosewood,

Please see my above post. ALL Nylon 66 rifles do have a serial number stamped on the rifle (the "firearm"). The serial number is stamped on the underside of the barrel up until January 1968 when the GCA required it to be stamped on the "receiver". In the case of the Nylon 66..the true receiver (that carries and chambers the ammunition) is internal (underneath the stamped cover), the outer stamped sheet metal cover becomes the resting place for the serial number.

I hold a FFL and the number stamped on the underside of the barrel is what is in my bound books and in my written records of acquisitions, sales (disposal), and transfers, same as any other firearm whether the s/n is stamped on frame, receiver, etc.

 

[raljr1]

I wasn't trying to be smart, just wondering what category that falls into.



How could a FFL do a transfer of a gun with no serial number?? There is no way to prove it is the same gun.



Rosewood

My curt reply was intended tongue in cheek.

I believe all handguns have always had serial numbers....some long guns, mostly old shotguns and 22 rifles did not...in most cases those would be transferable between individuals without issue...not sure how an ffl has to handle those..

Robert

 

[rosewood]

Rosewood,

Please see my above post. ALL Nylon 66 rifles do have a serial number stamped on the rifle (the "firearm"). The serial number is stamped on the underside of the barrel up until January 1968 when the GCA required it to be stamped on the "receiver". In the case of the Nylon 66..the true receiver (that carries and chambers the ammunition) is internal (underneath the stamped cover), the outer stamped sheet metal cover becomes the resting place for the serial number.

I hold a FFL and the number stamped on the underside of the barrel is what is in my bound books and in my written records of acquisitions, sales (disposal), and transfers, same as any other firearm whether the s/n is stamped on frame, receiver, etc.

Hmm, gonna take more investigation, I have never found a serial number anywhere on my example. Off to the gun safe.

Rosewood

 

[martyd]

I am trying to remember my 1st and 2nd N-66 rifles if they had rust or not, too long ago for my vault like memory, which is mostly rusted shut

I probably over oil my firearms when I put them away, paranoid I guess.

I spray the gun with a light coat of PLUS I sprayed the gun case liner foam or cloth with a light coat of oil as well. I have lived in Wash State, New Hampshire, Fla, Calif. all of these have considerable humidity, some with a little salt added for flavor.

After the feedback I am now in agreement with poor maintenance as the primary cause of the rust.

I have lived in Ariz twice once in the 1970's and now. In the 1970's I owned the first indoor shooting range in Arizona with a small gun store up front. Guns would come in with anywhere from free of rust to a lot of rust.

I did have to take good care of my personal guns at that time as well as those in the display cases to prevent surface rust. I think the problem was sweaty hands, even though they feel and look dry in Arizona and foreheads dripping on the firearms when outdoors.

No matter where you live you must care for your firearm is where I was going with my rambling above.

I am surprised but very glad this post generated as much interest, info and discussion as it has, that is what good posts are supposed to do!

 

[skywag]

I had to go look at my N66, these posts worried me. But thankfully.....no rust.