Removing Rust From 36

[kbm6893]

Friend of mine has a Model 36 from the late 50's. Maybe early 60's. It's a cops gun passed down to his FBI agent son and then passed to my friend who is a cop. So wear and tear is OK. I checked it out today. I hadn't seen it in months. I was shocked at the rust that is forming along the top strap and cylinder. My friend keeps it in a suede clip on holster and carries it everywhere, but rarely takes it out of the holster, so sweat and god knows what else gets trapped in there.

So I told him he's gotta do something. Would 0000 steel wool rubbed with oil remove the rust? I think he should either switch to a nylon holster or at the least wipe it down with a oil treated rag. I offered to pop the sideplate (I've done that to every revolver I ever owned) and flush out God knows what and lightly lube. But I hate to see an old cop gun continue to deteriorate.

 

[DAinTX]

Would 0000 steel wool rubbed with oil remove the rust?

Yes it would. Bronze wool is better, but 0000 steel wool works. I'd recommend he wax it if he's not going to wipe it down regularly. If he's reluctant to remove the sideplate (understandable) just tell him to remove the grips, cock the hammer (unloaded gun of course), and really flush it out with WD-40, then a good lube, let it drain, and go from there. It'll be fine.

 

[kbm6893]

I'd be willing to give it a good clean for him. Lewis Lead Remover on barrel and cylinder holes. Remove rust. Remove sideplate and flush out any sludge in there and lube. Wax it with Rennasance Wax. Hate to see the old girl get any worse. He's one of those guys who thinks revolvers just run and don't need a whole lot of care. I figure it's LONG overdue.

 

[H Richard]

PLEASE, don't have him flush it with WD40! Over time the residue left by it will turn to varnish and really goop up the action. If he doesn't want the side plate removed to clean, have him flush with brake and parts cleaner or gunscruber, and then blow out with compressed air then spray in a good CLP lubricant.

 

[murphydog]

A thorough cleaning as you suggest, followed by wax and a gun maintenance intervention for your friend are all in order . Does he never wash his car or change the oil either?

 

[DWalt]

Use a little oil (any kind) and a "Chore Boy" copper scouring pad to remove any rust without doing any damage to remaining bluing. Keep it waxed - I always have used Johnson's paste wax.

 

[kbm6893]

A thorough cleaning as you suggest, followed by wax and a gun maintenance intervention for your friend are all in order . Does he never wash his car or change the oil either?

Actually, he's a very handy guy. Builds decks and does pretty much all his home maintenance. Just doesn't think to clean his guns very often. He's a big Hunter and cleans those at the end of the season but his handguns, not so much. Last year when I was checking out the gun, it was still
Loaded with lead wadcutters from God knows when. I gave him some new Gold Dots.

When did the change to left hand threads on the ejector rod take place?

 

[DAinTX]

PLEASE, don't have him flush it with WD40! Over time the residue left by it will turn to varnish and really goop up the action. If he doesn't want the side plate removed to clean, have him flush with brake and parts cleaner or gunscruber, and then blow out with compressed air then spray in a good CLP lubricant.

You can certainly flush it with WD-40, which is something almost every household has, HOWEVER, as I said, you follow it up with a thorough flush with a good lube. The WD-40 is used strictly as a solvent in this scenario, and should be completely flushed out by the lube. The WD-40 is a very light liquid at that point and flushes out very easily. Or sure, blow it out with compressed air, if available. Obviously, you do not use WD-40 for both applications, because yes, it will eventually evaporate and leave a solid residue. And yes, of course you can use a cleaning agent like brake cleaner also. I guess I thought everyone knew the limitations involved...my bad. : (.

 

[Hondo44]

Actually, he's a very handy guy. Builds decks and does pretty much all his home maintenance. Just doesn't think to clean his guns very often. He's a big Hunter and cleans those at the end of the season but his handguns, not so much. Last year when I was checking out the gun, it was still
Loaded with lead wadcutters from God knows when. I gave him some new Gold Dots.

When did the change to left hand threads on the ejector rod take place?

WD-40 and guns is like drinking and driving. A no, no at anytime, especially in a defensive firearm! One spray of a loaded gun in a forgetful moment and the primers will be deactivated.

There was no change to the ejector rod thread direction on the J frame. It was designed and introduced with left hand thread on Oct. 27, 1950.

 

[k22fan]

Flushing is what you do with toilets.

Gun parts you wipe off with a soft rag wet with gun solvent or thin oil. Just about any one who is interested in revolvers enough to read a little about them can tap up a S&W side plate. You don't even need to be old enough to drink.

 

[kbm6893]

WD-40 and guns is like drinking and driving. A no, no at anytime, especially in a defensive firearm! One spray of a loaded gun in a forgetful moment and the primers will be deactivated.

There was no change to the ejector rod thread direction on the J frame. It was designed and introduced with left hand thread on Oct. 27, 1950.

I never have nor will I ever use WD-40 on a firearm. I'll use Hoppes #9, oil and 0000 steel wool for the rust, brake cleaner blasted into the internals after the plate is off, then blow out with compressed air and lightly lube. Lewis Lead Remover for the barrel and cylinder holes, and a wax when I'm done.

Any recommendations for the wood?

Also, I've never taken Tyler T-Grip adapters off. Do I just remove the grips and the clips holding them on will come out?

 

[walter o]

Also, I've never taken Tyler T-Grip adapters off. Do I just remove the grips and the clips holding them on will come out?

yes that is the way

 

[quinn]

Use a little oil (any kind) and a "Chore Boy" copper scouring pad to remove any rust without doing any damage to remaining bluing. Keep it waxed - I always have used Johnson's paste wax.

The last 'Choreboy' I bought was copper plated coarse steel. The copper wears off leaving you with steel on steel. Whatever happened to the good ole days. Home Depot and marine stores carry bronze wool pads which are inexpensive and last a long time. I had to order mine on the HD website and have it delivered to the store as my store didn't keep it in stock. Also available on flea bay, etc, as used to work on boat brightwork.

 

[gmborkovic]

Please, no steel wool! Even #OOOO. Use copper or bronze wool.

 

[kbm6893]

Please, no steel wool! Even #OOOO. Use copper or bronze wool.

Since when? Everything I've ever read about light rust removal is oil and 0000 steel wool. I'm cleaning this gun up on Monday, and I'll pick up copper or bronze wool if it's better, but I gotta get it tomorrow. Can't be waiting to order it on ebay.

 

[gmborkovic]

Sir, its your gun. Do as you want. Just try oil and an old rag , like a cotton T-shirt. Since you live in PA and Im in Boca, FL, you are not with in driving distance. I have a brand new pac of bronze wool. Good luck.

 

[k22fan]

Because it will not mark the stainless bronze wool is far better than steel for cleaning stainless revolvers but all the metal wools will thin your blueing while you work on the rust. However, a bag of bronze wool pads is only about $7 and it certainly can't be worse than steel wool. A long soak in a penetrating oil like Kroil might loosen up some rust reducing the amount of rubbing you have to do with the wool pad.

gmborkovic is correct in that light rust often wipes off with just a rag and oil. Bear in mind that none of us offering advise know how advanced the rust is.

 

[kbm6893]

Because it will not mark the stainless bronze wool is far better than steel for cleaning stainless revolvers but all the metal wools will thin your blueing while you work on the rust. However, a bag of bronze wool pads is only about $7 and it certainly can't be worse than steel wool. A long soak in a penetrating oil like Kroil might loosen up some rust reducing the amount of rubbing you have to do with the wool pad.

So where do I buy bronze or copper wool? I've used steel wool before with no issues. This gun has lots of blue loss. No problem with that. This was a cop's backup piece for over 20 years, then passed to his FBI agent son who carried it for over 20, then to my friend who carries it to this day. Not thinking I am gonna make it look new again, nor would I want to. 50 years a working cop's gun, it should like it. Just want to get that rust off there.

 

[k22fan]

So where do I buy bronze or copper wool? I've used steel wool before with no issues. This gun has lots of blue loss. No problem with that. Just want to get that rust off there.

Brownells sells bronze wool but their shipping charge might cost as much as the bronze wool. Although not all Ace Hardware stores have bronze wool on the shelf in their paint department they can order it for about $7 through their warehouse system. Yachtsmen like bronze wool because threads of steel wool left behind in their varnish can cause rust streaks so the boat supply stores near large marinas usually stock it.

I have used solid copper Chore Boy pads which have stiffer threads with sharper edges than bronze wool. They remove rust faster than bronze wool at the price of more bluing loss. I'd keep it wet with penetrating oil for a couple of weeks before using anything other than denim rags. Pawn shops which only want to get it done fast traditionally use steel wool.

 

[kbm6893]

Brownells sells bronze wool but their shipping charge might cost as much as the bronze wool. Although not all Ace Hardware stores have bronze wool on the shelf in their paint department they can order it for about $7 through their warehouse system. Yachtsmen like bronze wool because threads of steel wool left behind in their varnish can cause rust streaks so the boat supply stores near large marinas usually stock it.

I have used solid copper Chore Boy pads which have stiffer threads with sharper edges than bronze wool. They remove rust faster than bronze wool at the price of more bluing loss. I'd keep it wet with penetrating oil for a couple of weeks before using anything other than denim rags. Pawn shops which only want to get it done fast traditionally use steel wool.

I have copper Chore Boy pads, but that seems too aggressive to me. Pads seem way sharper than the fine steel wool.