Removing stuck projectile from barrel
- Thread starter Bradshave
- Start date
Wonder- Rod
A few years ago I got a 32/20 Spanish copy of HE. ( yes it was in
Southern WVA. Pistol was in very nice shape inside & out, tight.
I got 2 1/2 boxes of old Rem. Klean Bore with it. Ammo was dark
I shouldn't have used it. When I shot, every round sounded different and smoked. Finally got that hollow bang, bullet stopped
about 3" up 6" barrel. I had cut offs from the muzzle loader ram
rod " Wonder Rod", made from polyester fiber. Non- abrasive
drove bullet out to rear. No marring and material didn't deform.
Used several times since. They don't make one small Dia. To use
in 22.
A few years ago I got a 32/20 Spanish copy of HE. ( yes it was in
Southern WVA. Pistol was in very nice shape inside & out, tight.
I got 2 1/2 boxes of old Rem. Klean Bore with it. Ammo was dark
I shouldn't have used it. When I shot, every round sounded different and smoked. Finally got that hollow bang, bullet stopped
about 3" up 6" barrel. I had cut offs from the muzzle loader ram
rod " Wonder Rod", made from polyester fiber. Non- abrasive
drove bullet out to rear. No marring and material didn't deform.
Used several times since. They don't make one small Dia. To use
in 22.
Big Cholla
Member
Remove bullet from barrel
More than likely one can do this at home/on the range given the proper situation. Multiple bullets in any barrel go to a gunsmith. Pistols with ONE bullet are easy; use a brass rod with ends ground square and slightly greased that "just" fits inside the barrel and is dedicated to be used for squib loads. Place greased rod down barrel of handgun and while holding the rod in the barrel tap the handgun and the rod's end downward against something hard. It helps to put an ink mark or two on the rod to be able to 'see' the travel of each blow. Drive the bullet back into the chamber using the weight of the handgun NOT a hammer against the end of the rod.
Rifles with ONE bullet in the barrel should be evaluated to see just where the bullet is located. IF the rifle design will allow, drive the bullet to the muzzle end unless the bullet is barely into the rifling. IF the breech is not accessible to drive from the muzzle end with that greased brass rod the only choice to drive from the muzzle end. Have someone hold the rifle solidly on a padded bench. Again ink marks on the rod are valuable to be able to judge the movement achieved by each blow. Now you have to be careful to tap the brass rod with a light hammer squarely and with just enough force to move the bullet. Guide the brass rod with your off hand around the muzzle and the rod to minimize lateral forces to the lands of the rifling at the muzzle end. Again, if the brass rod is sized properly and greased slightly there will be NO damage to the lands and therefore no loss of accuracy. Again, multiple bullets in the barrel are to be taken to a gunsmith. This brass rod MUST be solid and one piece. A jointed rod such as a cleaning rod WILL NOT work. Also, never use an aluminum rod.
Regardless of the success of others using wood dowels, IMHO, one should NEVER use wood anything in attempting to drive out a lodged bullet. I have replaced ruined barrels more for this going wrong by a customer's attempt than any other reason. I could relate several horror stories of customer's attempts going wrong, but suffice to say, just don't do it with a wood dowel.
One last bon mot; Don't use that same brass rod to attempt to drive out a piece of fired brass that is stuck in the chamber beyond trying it with a firm push. Pounding on that rod with a hammer will surely knock the rear of the fired brass off and double or triple the amount of effort and skill the gunsmith will need to remove the stuck fired brass. ............. Big Cholla
More than likely one can do this at home/on the range given the proper situation. Multiple bullets in any barrel go to a gunsmith. Pistols with ONE bullet are easy; use a brass rod with ends ground square and slightly greased that "just" fits inside the barrel and is dedicated to be used for squib loads. Place greased rod down barrel of handgun and while holding the rod in the barrel tap the handgun and the rod's end downward against something hard. It helps to put an ink mark or two on the rod to be able to 'see' the travel of each blow. Drive the bullet back into the chamber using the weight of the handgun NOT a hammer against the end of the rod.
Rifles with ONE bullet in the barrel should be evaluated to see just where the bullet is located. IF the rifle design will allow, drive the bullet to the muzzle end unless the bullet is barely into the rifling. IF the breech is not accessible to drive from the muzzle end with that greased brass rod the only choice to drive from the muzzle end. Have someone hold the rifle solidly on a padded bench. Again ink marks on the rod are valuable to be able to judge the movement achieved by each blow. Now you have to be careful to tap the brass rod with a light hammer squarely and with just enough force to move the bullet. Guide the brass rod with your off hand around the muzzle and the rod to minimize lateral forces to the lands of the rifling at the muzzle end. Again, if the brass rod is sized properly and greased slightly there will be NO damage to the lands and therefore no loss of accuracy. Again, multiple bullets in the barrel are to be taken to a gunsmith. This brass rod MUST be solid and one piece. A jointed rod such as a cleaning rod WILL NOT work. Also, never use an aluminum rod.
Regardless of the success of others using wood dowels, IMHO, one should NEVER use wood anything in attempting to drive out a lodged bullet. I have replaced ruined barrels more for this going wrong by a customer's attempt than any other reason. I could relate several horror stories of customer's attempts going wrong, but suffice to say, just don't do it with a wood dowel.
One last bon mot; Don't use that same brass rod to attempt to drive out a piece of fired brass that is stuck in the chamber beyond trying it with a firm push. Pounding on that rod with a hammer will surely knock the rear of the fired brass off and double or triple the amount of effort and skill the gunsmith will need to remove the stuck fired brass. ............. Big Cholla
OP
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. Just as a matter of interest, what would a gunsmith in the United States charge typically for a job like this (removing a stuck projectile). I'm writing from Albany, Australia.
muddocktor
Member
Great post, Big Cholla!
I had to remove a stuck bullet from a squib out of my 27-2 a month or 2 ago and did it the way you describe. I had loaded some 148 grain HBWC bullets upside down to make some home made hollow points (playing around experimenting) and 1 round out of that whole 250 round box of Hornady HBWC bullets ended up being a squib and the bullet stuck about an inch down the barrel. I keep a brass rod that just fits down the barrel of a 357 in my range bag and I simply opened up my cylinder, put the rod down my barrel carefully and then put the rod to a countertop and pushed. That soft Hornady wadcutter slid easily back out the back side of the barrel and I didn't have to even tap the rod and revolver into the countertop to get the bullet moving. In a matter of a minute I was back in business and having fun again.
I had to remove a stuck bullet from a squib out of my 27-2 a month or 2 ago and did it the way you describe. I had loaded some 148 grain HBWC bullets upside down to make some home made hollow points (playing around experimenting) and 1 round out of that whole 250 round box of Hornady HBWC bullets ended up being a squib and the bullet stuck about an inch down the barrel. I keep a brass rod that just fits down the barrel of a 357 in my range bag and I simply opened up my cylinder, put the rod down my barrel carefully and then put the rod to a countertop and pushed. That soft Hornady wadcutter slid easily back out the back side of the barrel and I didn't have to even tap the rod and revolver into the countertop to get the bullet moving. In a matter of a minute I was back in business and having fun again.
indiandave
Member
I have a Squib rod bought years ago from the Brownell catalog. I always carry it in my range bag. only had to use it a couple of times. Worked like a charm. It also helps that I normally load lead bullets.
Ben_hutcherson
Member
I've only had one sqib-in my case a 32 long. I'm actually not sure what happened in that particular case, but I did note that most of the rounds from that batch had almost no neck tension(bullets could turn in the case) I suspect that contributed to my squib.
In any case, I was shooting a 3" I frame, and had one go off that didn't sound "quite right." I looked down at the gun, and saw the nose of the bullet poking out of the end of the barrel.
I ended up using a wooden dowel at home to drive the bullet out. Since it was partially out of the barrel, I attempted to grab the exposed end and pull it out, but was unsuccessful in doing so.
In any case, I was shooting a 3" I frame, and had one go off that didn't sound "quite right." I looked down at the gun, and saw the nose of the bullet poking out of the end of the barrel.
I ended up using a wooden dowel at home to drive the bullet out. Since it was partially out of the barrel, I attempted to grab the exposed end and pull it out, but was unsuccessful in doing so.
gwpercle
Member
A whole lot less than repairing all the damage that can be done with a big hammer and any kind of rod.
It can be done at home BUT...... Use a aluminum or brass rod a bit smaller than bore.
If the bullet will not easily go back into the case , take it to a smith!
Things will go from bad to worse very quickly.
Gary
Last edited:
Mine charged me $35 for my first stuck bullet about 10 years ago,but it was an easy one to get out.
Johnrh
Member
I got one of these after searching all over for a brass rod with no luck.
464 Brass Round Rod, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, H02 Temper, ASTM B21, 0.3125" Diameter, 12" Length: Brass Metal Raw Materials: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/414%2BSJ6KSdL.@@AMEPARAM@@414%2BSJ6KSdL
464 Brass Round Rod, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, H02 Temper, ASTM B21, 0.3125" Diameter, 12" Length: Brass Metal Raw Materials: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/414%2BSJ6KSdL.@@AMEPARAM@@414%2BSJ6KSdL
rsrocket1
Member
Brass rods are cheap and are easily found at hardware or hobby stores. Just cut one down to about a foot (unless you have a really long barreled handgun). Keep it and a hammer in your range bag at all times. If the bullet is well into the barrel, just open the cylinder and drive the bullet back until it falls out. If stuck between the cylinder and barrel, just drive it back into the case.
I recommend everyone learn how to drive a bullet out of a barrel and everyone should know what a squib feels like. It is definitely different from even a powder puff load. There is no recoil. The bullet never leaves the barrel for the action, so there can be no reaction. You can do this by using a fast pistol powder like Red Dot and loading down until the bullet sticks by loading one shot at a time and checking the barrel each time until the bullet sticks. Then practice driving the bullet out with the rod.
Much better to learn how to do it deliberately than to be caught off guard at a crowded range not knowing what to do or to bring home a loaded gun with a stuck bullet.
I recommend everyone learn how to drive a bullet out of a barrel and everyone should know what a squib feels like. It is definitely different from even a powder puff load. There is no recoil. The bullet never leaves the barrel for the action, so there can be no reaction. You can do this by using a fast pistol powder like Red Dot and loading down until the bullet sticks by loading one shot at a time and checking the barrel each time until the bullet sticks. Then practice driving the bullet out with the rod.
Much better to learn how to do it deliberately than to be caught off guard at a crowded range not knowing what to do or to bring home a loaded gun with a stuck bullet.
Comrad
Member
I think we're going to need a bigger rod.
