I would appreciate your feedback on my recent video.
I finally got up the nerve to open up my snubby and remove the internal lock. I have since done the same operation to my other two snubbies.
Here is my video and how I did the operation:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM
Thanks for any feedback
Gary C
I want to thank everyone for the encouraging remarks. I’ll use this edit to respond to some of your comments.
The reason I did the video was because throughout the forum I read comments like- “just remove the lock if you don’t like it…”, or “grind the nub off of the lock.” My question was always, “OK – HOW?” So when I finally got up enough courage to give it a try, and it worked, I figured someone could benefit from my experience. Thus, a video was born.
Yup, I goofed. I should have videoed a visual check for an empty gun before starting. I realized this error after the video was completed and by then I just said “Ah Hell”, or words to that effect, and I let it slide.
In the latter part of the video you can see what appears to be cartridges in the cylinder. In one of my editing sessions this clip found it’s way into the video. Yes, they are my home made snap caps. I reload so I have decapped some spent cartridges and reseated a bullet in each case. I did this for 35 empty cases and I use them in my speed loaders to practice my reloading. I like to enter the local “Action Pistol” competition.
I didn’t remove all of the lock mechanism for a couple reasons. First, I didn’t want a gaping hole in the gun for dirt and lint to enter. I had also read on the forum that the “key” portion of the lock did not present a problem for possible jamming of the gun. Second, I did try removing the “key” section of the lock just to see how it worked. I struggled with it for a while and decided that if it was going to present that much trouble in removing it, that it was probably going to stay put while shooting the gun. I never was able to get the “key” portion of the lock out of the revolver. I was afraid that if I did, I’d never get it back into the gun.
I have done the lock modification to three S&W revolvers, the stainless steel 640 in the video, an Airweight 642-2, and an M&P 340. I have not experienced any problems.
The three lock flags now sit in a little baggie. If I ever want to sell one of the snubbies, fat chance, I can reinstall the flags and return the gun to it’s original lockable condition.
I finally got up the nerve to open up my snubby and remove the internal lock. I have since done the same operation to my other two snubbies.
Here is my video and how I did the operation:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM
Thanks for any feedback
Gary C
I want to thank everyone for the encouraging remarks. I’ll use this edit to respond to some of your comments.
The reason I did the video was because throughout the forum I read comments like- “just remove the lock if you don’t like it…”, or “grind the nub off of the lock.” My question was always, “OK – HOW?” So when I finally got up enough courage to give it a try, and it worked, I figured someone could benefit from my experience. Thus, a video was born.
Yup, I goofed. I should have videoed a visual check for an empty gun before starting. I realized this error after the video was completed and by then I just said “Ah Hell”, or words to that effect, and I let it slide.
In the latter part of the video you can see what appears to be cartridges in the cylinder. In one of my editing sessions this clip found it’s way into the video. Yes, they are my home made snap caps. I reload so I have decapped some spent cartridges and reseated a bullet in each case. I did this for 35 empty cases and I use them in my speed loaders to practice my reloading. I like to enter the local “Action Pistol” competition.
I didn’t remove all of the lock mechanism for a couple reasons. First, I didn’t want a gaping hole in the gun for dirt and lint to enter. I had also read on the forum that the “key” portion of the lock did not present a problem for possible jamming of the gun. Second, I did try removing the “key” section of the lock just to see how it worked. I struggled with it for a while and decided that if it was going to present that much trouble in removing it, that it was probably going to stay put while shooting the gun. I never was able to get the “key” portion of the lock out of the revolver. I was afraid that if I did, I’d never get it back into the gun.
I have done the lock modification to three S&W revolvers, the stainless steel 640 in the video, an Airweight 642-2, and an M&P 340. I have not experienced any problems.
The three lock flags now sit in a little baggie. If I ever want to sell one of the snubbies, fat chance, I can reinstall the flags and return the gun to it’s original lockable condition.
