replacement motor for tumbler? (Final update & resolution 10/31)

[snowman]

Hello, fellas. I've just reviewed many, many posts in a search for the answer to my question, but came up empty.

After around 15 years of service, either the motor or a bearing seized in my Frankford Arsenal-labeled tumbler. I'm the type who would much prefer to repair an item that's otherwise in fine shape than to replace the whole thing. If I have to do the latter, or if the repair cost as much or more than getting a new tumbler, I'll do it of course. The issue is whether I can locate a replacement motor, which I haven't been able to do thus far. That may be more of a hassle than it's worth, also. Thought I would see if anyone here might know of a source. I checked Surplus Center, but they didn't have anything that matched it.

Thanks, as always, to anyone who might have a lead.

Regards,
Andy

 

[WR Moore]

Graingers (sp?) generally handle all types of replacement electric motors. Given the price tag I faced for the cooling fan on a 30+ year old welder, you'd probably be better off just buying a new tumbler.

 

[AJ]

Replacement motors can be purchased. Look in the local yellow pages and find an electrical motor supplier or repair shop. A friend just replaced one on his Thumblers Tumbler. Easy as pie.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

I had a number of vibrating case tumblers that the motors died, some after long faithful service and some not so much!

My original was a Thumbler's, it cost around $80 in 1984, the motor died after 4 0r 5 years of very hard service (sometimes running 24/7 for weeks on end with the on time off being to change brad and media 2 times a day!) I found that Thumbler's sells motors in 2011: it costs about $80 now.

I had a few each Lyman and RCBS, their motor is like a Bath fan motor only more robust. The $8 replacement motors for bath fans lasted 3 to 4 weeks of what I call medium to light duty.

I had an account at Granger's, but my pricing level made it better to buy brand new brass tumblers (with a warranty) than to repair one and have it fail so soon! If you or your company can get 30% or better pricing at Granger's, I would say it is worth it!

I only load a few thousand rounds a year now and really like the Thumbler's Tumblers large rotary tumbler with hot water soap and stainless steel pins, but each batch is small!

Ivan

ETA: Small in this case is just under 200, 223 Rem. cases. They base batch size on a weight of 2 pounds of brass.

 

[rwsmith]

Grainger was my go to......

....many years ago. The label on the old motor may show a frame type, which you can use to match up a new one besides HP, voltage and rpm.

Been a very long time, though. Things change, often not for the better.

 

[Engineer1911]

Call MidwayUSA (800-243-3220) about getting the motor replaced. You pay shipping to them, and the motor maybe free. Midway will not send you a new motor to install yourself -- liability issue.

 

[Drm50]

I once bought some very high grade low Rpm gear reduction
motors that were intended to run chains off a sprocket. After
spending the better part of a day making adapter plate and mounts got it together and was proud of myself. It ran for less
than 20 minutes before it burnt up. The motor was not designed
to run continuously and over heated and burnt up. When buying
motors make sure of intended purpose. A lot of the small motors
will not handle any load other than a fan blade. The small motors
intended to operate flues, vent panels, ect aren't for continuous
operation. I know guys who have used the motors out of record
players with some success to replace tumbler motor.

 

[Rule3]

Call MidwayUSA (800-243-3220) about getting the motor replaced. You pay shipping to them, and the motor maybe free. Midway will not send you a new motor to install yourself -- liability issue.

A true optimist!


Replace a 15 year old motor??


In today's "disposable" world I fear the OP has reached the limit on that tumbler. Time for a new, made in China unit. The motor/shipping is probably not worth the money, time and effort

There have been attempts at this.





Posted April 12, 2017

Battenfeld Technologies Inc.
2501 LeMone Industrial Blvd
Columbia, MO 65201
(877) 509-9160 phone
((877) 446-6606 fax
[email protected]

 

[992B]

If the motor shaft is just seized try cleaning the bearing surface with alcohol on a Q tip and let it dry. Then put a drop or two on the outer bearing surface and let unit set for an hour or so. No need to take the motor apart, just take it loose from the tumbler. Finally put a drop of Hoppe's gun oil, not the bore cleaner, on each outside edge of the bearings at each end of motor, let set for an hour. Shaft should be free, plug in and run for another 10 years!!! Gary

 

[NSEGE]

I had one that got loose in the housing. I searched high and low for a replacement motor.... apparently nobody makes them as individual units. Even had my local electrical motor repair guy look for it (by part number and by description) in his master catalog.... nada.

So, I got out the JB Weld and figured nothing ventured, nothing gained.. that was about 8 years ago and it's still going strong.

Short of something that can be repaired with JB Weld, just get a new one.

 

[BigMoneyGrip]

As mentioned, your motor should have a tag on it listing the specs. Grainger should have a replacment. These are generic motors so you shouldn't have any trouble finding one.

 

[snowman]

I appreciate everyone's efforts to help me with this. I'll spend some time on it today and see what I can do, then let you know what I find out.

Regards,
Andy

 

[Wee Hooker]

Buy another Frankfort Arsenal Tumbler and scavenge the motor. Then you'll have spares for the next time it breaks

 

[NMPinNYC]

An alternative to the motor replacment... Harbor Freight has a cement mixer available for $209.00 before the 20% coupon:

Cement Mixer - 3-1/2 Cubic Ft. Cement Mixer

I have seriously considered one of these...

 

[Engineer1911]

An alternative to the motor replacment... Harbor Freight has a cement mixer available for $209.00 before the 20% coupon:

Cement Mixer - 3-1/2 Cubic Ft. Cement Mixer

I have seriously considered one of these...

Warning: Sandwich the mixing paddles with polyethylene plastic stock to prevent battering or burring the case mouths. The range I reload at has one that does a great job of polishing the brass but beats up case mouths, even with a full tub of media.

 

[Funflyer]

Hello, fellas. I've just reviewed many, many posts in a search for the answer to my question, but came up empty.

After around 15 years of service, either the motor or a bearing seized in my Frankford Arsenal-labeled tumbler. I'm the type who would much prefer to repair an item that's otherwise in fine shape than to replace the whole thing. If I have to do the latter, or if the repair cost as much or more than getting a new tumbler, I'll do it of course. The issue is whether I can locate a replacement motor, which I haven't been able to do thus far. That may be more of a hassle than it's worth, also. Thought I would see if anyone here might know of a source. I checked Surplus Center, but they didn't have anything that matched it.

Thanks, as always, to anyone who might have a lead.

Regards,
Andy

Pull the motor and post pictures, we can help. Measure the diameter and length of the shaft, motor body, and note the direction of rotation, HP and amps. Much of this info can be found on the motor's label if it has one. Chances are, you won't find a replacement motor by searching for "tumbler motor" but will find a few alternatives by searching for the motor's "specs".

 

[snowman]

Well, I removed the motor and took pictures, and now I can't remember how to post them, though I just posted some others a few months ago. If any of you have a free minute or two and could remind me how to post pictures from Windows Photo Gallery, I would be grateful. Sorry for my absentmindedness.

I tested power to the motor to make sure the switch wasn't bad, and it was fine. The bearing on the bottom end of the shaft is worn from the punishment of the constant gyration. There is no tag, stamping, or any other means of identifying the motor itself or the specs, other than what is found on a sticker on the base of the tumbler which tells the voltage(standard 120 of course), frequency(standard 60 Hz) and amperage(.83). No hp, rpm, or etc.

I'll make an effort tomorrow to see if a replacement is available. All I've learned thus far tells me that that is very doubtful. This is a Chinese-made unit which appears to have been manufactured specifically for vibratory tumblers, due to the design of the mounting components. If I can manage to get the pictures posted, I'll let anyone who is interested but hasn't personally observed one of these see what I'm talking about. I may be mistaken; we'll see.

Regards,
Andy

 

[Funflyer]

Well, I removed the motor and took pictures, and now I can't remember how to post them, though I just posted some others a few months ago.

Click on the "go advanced" tab at the bottom of the thread's quick reply box (bottom of this page) and then click on "manage attachments".

 

[snowman]

Well, to anyone who may still be interested, the first 3 pictures are of the motor, and the last two are of the hard plastic base of the tumbler(Thanks to Funflyer for reminding me how to upload them.). Note the four mounting screws arranged in rectangular fashion on the top end of the motor. Any replacement must have mounting screws in that exact arrangement, length, diameter, offset, and so on, in order to fit and align with the holes in the hard plastic base of the tumbler. These holes are shown on both the underside and topside of the base, on the underside being raised and reinforced by the plastic, and the topside being recessed into the plastic so that the nuts won't contact the bowl. All this(and more) tells me that this motor and tumbler were designed for each other, and therefore that it is highly unlikely that a generic motor could be found that would work.

The above theory was supported today when I visited the only business I know of in this region(just learned of its existence a few days ago) which specializes in repair and sales of all types of electric motors. This business was founded in 1923 and has been in continuous operation in the same location since that time. It was obvious to me that the man who helped me had many years of experience there and knew motors up and down. He barely had looked at the motor and asked, "Is this used in some vibrating application?"

Though the weight on the shaft which causes the motor to gyrate would give that fact away, that wasn't what gave it away to the man behind the counter. He told me that motors belonging to the same class(I believe he referred to them as class "C") as the one from my tumbler would have brass bearings on the shaft, but this one had steel ball bearings. He said that the typical ones with the brass bearings wouldn't last a week in a vibrating application. He also noted that this motor had a considerably larger diameter shaft and other beefier components which enabled it to hold up better under the punishment of its use. He also explained to me why it couldn't be rebuilt, which is too intricate to bother with here.

After checking all his sources he said that none could match it, and that my only likely source was the tumbler manufacturer(or whatever one calls the outfit which sends the specs to China), and that they probably would only want to sell me a complete unit rather than the motor only.

Consequently I'll check with that outfit tomorrow(Battenfeld Technologies -thanks to Rule 3 for their phone number) and see if the above gentleman was correct. If he is, I'll buy a new tumbler and be done with it.

Thanks again for everyone's contributions. I hope the above information is somehow helpful to you.

Regards,
Andy

 

[oink]

Well, thanks for wasting your time with that. I'm a fix-it type guy too and I would have done the same thing. Now I won't bother when my vibratory tumbler kicks the bucket.