RESTORATION No 3 NEW MODEL .44-40

[DrRandyHester]

I'm seeking a high-quality restoration specialist for my No3 New Model SA "Frontier .44-40. I happened across this gun in the early 1970s at an estate sale. The finish was perfect, but the cylinder rotated with the hammer down. There is no half cock, but when fully cock, the cylinder locks are properly in position. It proved quite accurate with some light black powder loads.

When I investigated, I found it was one of the remaining 1286 .44-40s after the Japanese contract. Originally I thought it was "a neat old gun" for a shadow box

The serial number is 166 marked on the butt and cylinder.

Unfortunately, in 2011, we had a house fire. The gun was not exposed to heat but was covered with debris and water for several days in the Texas heat and was pitted. Given the rarity, I think it would be worthwhile to see if it could be restored. I would appreciate any thoughts on the matter and any referrals you think would be appropriate. Thanks, Randy

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! Unfortunately, the damage cannot be repaired without destroying substantial collector value, IMO. There is a gunsmith named Mark Novak who promotes what he calls "Conservation." It is a process that you can do yourself if you are so inclined. Perhaps this video will explain it:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rShG_F85W1Y&t=1723s[/ame]

 

[BMur]

Spot restoration

That’s a beautiful Frontier 44WCF SA. It’s amazing that the fire didn’t do more damage.
Spot restoration on nickel finish can be done without detectable results. However, bluing is extremely difficult to spot restore without shading or color differences. Especially when metal work is involved that requires the removal of pitting and surface damage. Application of specific heat temp to achieve the right tone is very difficult to match what’s there.

You can get close but there is always a slight shade difference between the original finish and the newly applied restoration finish.

With this much original bluing finish remaining I would honestly hesitate to dive to deep into a restoration without losing more than you gain.

It’s very similar to a paint touch up job. You can get close but the final result is still visible.

*** Rule 1, page 1, book 101…..”ALWAYS REMOVE THE GRIPS” BEFORE YOU WORK ON ANY ANTIQUE. If you watch the video posted the grips were damaged by that spray and the color tone was changed. That includes rifles. Remove the barrel assembly from the wood stock and set those delicate items in a safe place before you perform any type of metal work/repair.

Murph

 

[Patbar]

On another forum, I recently saw a 1875 Colt SAA which has been "restored" to look as if it was brand new, and for me, this is simply destroying a piece of history which should be passed on to future generations !

So please, try to find someone who will not erase all traces of this gun history.

 

[Jim Watson]

Unfortunately, in 2011, we had a house fire. The gun was not exposed to heat but was covered with debris and water for several days in the Texas heat and was pitted.

I had the same thing in 2010. Fortunately the affected guns were common types and no collector interest or dollar value was lost in ordinary refinishing. Homeowners insurance even paid for it. I got back two levels of refinish:
Complete removal of damage and even prior wear, looks great, will pass for unhurt from six feet.
Good commercial reblue and stock finish.

Then there were the ones I did not have refinished; my CAS shotgun didn't have any finish to replace and I just scrubbed a 10/22 barrel and stock with Ballistol.


I don't know what to do with one that DOES have collector interest.
A real restoration will be very expensive and you will hear Patbar's plaint.
So maybe go the conservation route, and show it with the right side out.

 

[rct269]

The bottom line of all this goes like so: If (IF!!) the restoration/refinishing is done by an EXPERT, you will be very pleased with the result--------------aesthetically. You will be well and truly dismayed by the decrease in monetary value---never mind the added cost of the restoration.

I'm sure there is more than one restoration firm who can/will do a very pleasing job (aesthetically), but I don't know who they are. The very best one known to me (Turnbull) no longer works on S&W products due to the many and varied surfaces to be dealt with when it comes to polishing (this is most applicable to hand ejectors revolvers from a later period), but simply considering the barrel of yours should illustrate the point. (The factory successfully dealt with this by using formed polishing wheels---formed to match these surfaces/combination of surfaces. I'm hard pressed to imagine any others with formed polishing wheels.) The only solution to this problem is to do the preparation/polishing by hand-----bring money.

Your experience is a for sure and certain bummer! There are no known for sure and certain solutions-----for sure and certain!

If you choose to proceed with a restoration/refinishing, you must very strongly make the point you expect/require absolute perfection, and you don't care the first thing about the cost!

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside, the best (required) approach to a restoration of such as this is to strip the original finish----no removal by polishing/grinding wheels allowed-----and then proceed with treating the damaged areas and final polishing by hand.