Rust on S&W Re-Blue 27-2

[Uberdog]

I had S&W re-blue a 1975 era 27-2 a few years back. They did the job twice in a row since the first time it came back it had blueing salts seeping out of the barrel pin area. The second job came back looking good and I stored it in the safe very well oiled.

Pulling it out a few weeks back I noticed what appears to be light rust starting in areas like the cylinder, crane, forcing cone, etc. I have attached some pictures.

Debating if I send this back to S&W for another round or just try and clean it up. I have not fired the gun since it was refinished and it is stored oiled along with all my other collector pieces, nothing else shows any rust. I am suspecting the re-blue was not properly handled the last time.

An email to S&W came back saying I could send it in for evaluation but since it's been a few years, they cannot promise anything related to the last work they performed.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[john traveler]

The after-rust you found is characteristic of hot bath bluing where the bluing salts were not completely rinsed off in the final hot water baths. The white powder seeping out of barrel joints and pin holes is called "bloom" and is the nitrate salts at work. They are hygroscopic (absorbs atmospheric moisture) and promotes rust. The reason you never see it on new guns is because the final fitting and assembly of barrel to frame is done after the parts are blued separately.

About all you can do is to thoroughly and I mean THOROUGHLY clean the gun using solvents, brass brush to clean off the rusted spots, wipe dry, and oil with a high film strength cleaning oil such as Breakfree CLP. Wrap in vpi paper and store in boxes. In that marvelous high humididty of the pacific northwest, I would inspect, clean, and oil at least once each month to renew the oil film. It also helps to keep a goldenrod heater in your safe. The minor rust spots don't look all that serious, and a good cleaning should get rid of them.

 

[Marksman]

If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, I would have it cleaned that would remove the remaining bluing salts from areas like the barrel threads and pin. After ultrasonic cleaning a good rust preventive like Birchwood Casey Sheath or RIG, a generous application. Warming the metal slightly with a hair dryer would assure that the rust preventive penetrated into all the former problem areas.

 

[Art Doc]

One of the reasons I don't have guns refinished. All the money and aggravation and the gun may end up looking worse than before you sent it in for work.

This doesn't speak well for the quality of work they are doing at S&W.

 

[Ga Johnny]

well Mr Pig beat me to it............

"One of the reasons I don't have guns refinished"

but looking at your pictures if it were mine, I'd just clean the gun up, learn something from it, and move along.

 

[TAROMAN]

That looks like it should clean up without much trouble. Any re-blue takes something away and cleaning this would be a lot less brutal than subjecting it to yet amother blue job.

 

[dant]

the pictures show us GOOD examples of what John said above, but also of the areas that get LITTLE or NO attention in normal maintainance...yes, these spots also "clean up" ( detail) quite easily and should not be a problem, gotta look and oil EVERYWHERE..........
otherwise,looks like a nice job overall.........

 

[Frank237]

I'd suggest KROIL penetrating oil first...the stuff penetrates into every nook and cranny very quickly. Use the KROIL to wash the salts away, then any of the other rust preventatives suggested.

 

[Scary Gary]

I have a nice Colt 1911 that someone brought home from WW-I and it has been reblued and has this same issue at the base of the front sight.

 

[Uberdog]

Hey thanks for the replies folks.

I use Corrosion X and store in either VCI bags or BoreStore's. Goldenrod and desiccants in use, etc. Never an issue until this gun came back from S&W. Issue clearly related to the blueing salts.

Some Kroil and and a brass brush sound like the fix for now. Should I be concerned about internals? Wondering if I should pull the side plate, the crane, etc. I think I know the answer...

 

[H Richard]

I agree with the Kroil recommendation and the Corrosion X for coating. Yes, I would pull the side plate and do the same inside it.

 

[old bear]

If my comment is not appropriate I apologize. But it's a sad state of affairs when the owner of a Smith and Wesson revolver can't count on the factory to perform a quality repair job.

 

[firearmsunlimited]

If my comment is not appropriate I apologize. But it's a sad state of affairs when the owner of a Smith and Wesson revolver can't count on the factory to perform a quality repair job.

I completely agree with Old Bear! Pride in their craftsmanship and products seems to be lacking.

I would contact S&W and demand that they pay shipping both ways and that they get the job done right the third time. Why should you risk damaging the finish or pay a third party to do a job correctly that S&W has been paid for and given more than one chance to do correctly?

 

[dant]

I disagree, as it really does come down to a "maintainance" issue, one must keep an eye on and look at the gun from time to time, to keep an eye on just whats going on, wether a blue job, or normal moisture in the air (conditioning? temp changes, etc) oxidation is oxidation and a guns surface as well as ANY metal surface can and will "oxidize" ( and rust overnight if the conditions are right or in this case, 'wrong').....any gun that is blued , and the parts are "together" (threaded) can and will leach out from time to time, and NO oil does not make it go away, as the salts need to be "neutralized", thats what the hot water rinse does.......it can "leach out" ( if any is still trapped in a void, crack or crevice, or again, in this case, the threads...BUT the rust on the surface , in the picture of the back strap is just that ,"surface oxidation, from a LACK of attention??? finger print?? (hand or palm sweat??) just how much is the company supposed to "baby sit" us on any follow up??? Yes, maybe a lack of communications here, as we always told any customer who had a gun refinished to "keep on eye on it" as just what you see above, can and does happen, nature of the beast......bluing salts is nasty stuff....sorry but this is just MY opinion and .02 cents, and what we have seen happen in our over 40 years in the 'business'.....( and observing OTHERS business , and performance....) the gun just needs a bit of 'TLC' ,NOT another "refiinish"............
hey give them a call, never know ,BUT after what did you say , two years, me thinks not............

 

[M29since14]

You have to keep an eye on ANY gun from anywhere that has been reblued without being fully disassembled. The various cleaning techniques described will take care of the problem, but they will probably have to be done several times. I particularly like Kroil myself, but it is not a silver bullet. You have to keep an eye on the gun until you are satisfied it is OK. Eventually, everything gets back to normal and you have a nice looking gun. In the past I have had several of my S&Ws refinished by them and have always been pleased with the work.