S&W 39-2 not ejecting cartridges reliably

Steve H

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I picked up a model 39-2 recently, my first auto pistol. It's given me trouble since the first time I took it out, unfortunately.
It had 3 distinct problems, 2 of them have been solved by new magazines and improved technique on my part.
The third problem persists: it will jam at least once every 2 magazines. The cartridge does not eject, it sits there in the chamber and won't let the next round up.
So far, I've stripped it and sprayed it out pretty well, and made sure it is well oiled anywhere there are moving parts.
I don't think it's the ammo - people on here say 39's aren't too picky, and my buddy's model 59 (essentially the same gun with a wide frame and double-stack magazines) goes through the same rounds no problem. Remington 115gr JHP, by the way.
I don't think I'm holding it incorrectly any more, the 59 works flawlessly for me.

What should I be looking at next?


thanks,
-Steve
 
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I picked up a model 39-2 recently, my first auto pistol. It's given me trouble since the first time I took it out, unfortunately.
It had 3 distinct problems, 2 of them have been solved by new magazines and improved technique on my part.
The third problem persists: it will jam at least once every 2 magazines. The cartridge does not eject, it sits there in the chamber and won't let the next round up.
So far, I've stripped it and sprayed it out pretty well, and made sure it is well oiled anywhere there are moving parts.
I don't think it's the ammo - people on here say 39's aren't too picky, and my buddy's model 59 (essentially the same gun with a wide frame and double-stack magazines) goes through the same rounds no problem. Remington 115gr JHP, by the way.
I don't think I'm holding it incorrectly any more, the 59 works flawlessly for me.

What should I be looking at next?


thanks,
-Steve
 
Steve H.
Had you changed out the recoil spring? With any used gun, you never know how old it may be or how many rounds have gone through it.
 
Frank -
The gun looks to be pretty well-used, but I haven't changed any springs yet. I was considering ordering one of the kits from Wolff, but don't want to just throw money at it if the issue might lie in some other part (extractor? other?)
 
I understand that..but springs are relatively inexpensive..start with the least amount of money to spend and go from there.

Let us know how it turns out...love the model 39s, you'd be hard pressed to find a firearm that fits better in your hand, at least that's my opinion.
 
When changing out the springs also look at the extractor to see if it's chipped. Some people will load their autos by locking back the slide, sticking a rd in the chamber and then letting the slide go forward instead of loading from the mag. In the 39 this will cause a chipped extractor which will give the problem you are experiencing.
 
Steve have you checked the ejector.The tip may be broken off. Check the see how long it is and how far it protrudes. Since you have a 59 you can compare them. Bruce
 
The lower edge of the extractor seems to be worn, and possibly chipped. That's it on the right, casting a shadow onto the back of the chamber.
What do you guys think?
Sorry, I'm definitely not a pro photographer!
[url="http://imageshack.us"][img]http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/536/ejectordk1.jpg[/img] [/url] [url="http://g.imageshack.us/img88/ejectordk1.jpg/1/"][img]http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/ejectordk1.jpg/1/w1133.png[/img] [/url]
I might be able to compare the 52 to it this weekend. Maybe I can swap the springs and see what happens.
 
If the spent casing remains in the chamber, I would think extractor issues as opposed to ejector problems.

New springs can't hurt...
 
Be sure to clean out all the fouling from the breech chamber. The 39-2 also tends to collect crud in the extractor return spring area. On the later model four digit series 39s they made a deeper well behind the extractor to prevent the fouling from building up.

Pokey
 
It sounds like an extractor or extractor spring issue to me. I would also check to make sure that the chamber is not rough.

Also, try some different ammo, on older pistols I have found on occasion that some pistols just don't like some brands of ammo. The dimensions of the extractor grooves seem vary quite a bit among the different brands.

Winchester USA white box 115 FMJ and Federal American Eagle 115 gr FMJ seems to work best in old 9mm pistols for me.
 
There were two different types of extractors for the Model 39. The original was a long extractor while the 39-2 typically had a shorter extractor.

If you're replacing the extractor, spend an extra $4 to replace the retaining pin and the extractor spring while you're there.
 
Originally posted by ispcapt:
When changing out the springs also look at the extractor to see if it's chipped. Some people will load their autos by locking back the slide, sticking a rd in the chamber and then letting the slide go forward instead of loading from the mag. In the 39 this will cause a chipped extractor which will give the problem you are experiencing.

Truthfully, I doubt the springs are the issue, although provided they are replaced with proper replacements, it won't hurt anything to do so. I would guess it is the extractor, and that will have to be replaced.
 
I cleaned out the chamber as well as I know how, it didn't help.

I got a chance to compare the extractor from my buddy's 59 to my 39-2, and the 59's actually looked worse but it works every time. Not to say that couldn't be the problem - his extractor actually looks chipped, and mine looks more worn down. He wasn't very keen on letting me put his recoil spring in my gun, but my new one should be here soon anyways. A gunsmith who happened to be out at the range looked at my extractor and didn't think it was too bad. He also said he didn't think a recoil spring will help, and to try a heavier bullet.

I tried some 124gr JHP's and some 115gr FMJ's, the problem persisted.

I'm still waiting for my new recoil spring from Wolff.
If that doesn't help, I'll look at replacing the extractor/spring/pin.

Pokey: Do I need to remove the extractor to clean the part you desribed, or can I get to it by just field stripping?

thanks for your input so far, everyone-
 
First try the simple test of a new magazine, since the magazine follower, lip, or the magazine spring might be weak or bent. Make sure the extractor spring shows good tension. To test it compare it to your friends 59. Use your finger to push on the extractor and compare it to his gun. To clean the extractor and extractor spring use some carburetor cleaner after you remove the slide from the frame. That should remove all carbon, but be careful to use it lightly to keep it from harming the bluing.(I'd test a small area with a Q-tip) Let it air dry, and lube it with some silicone spray. The silicone will keep carbon fouling from building up better than an oil lubricant.

Warning: I have used Carb cleaner with great success on Stainless, but haven't had the need to use it on Blued parts, so be careful to test it first. Maybe someone else can chime in on this regard.

Pokey
 
My new recoil spring came in today. It noticeably firmed up the action when I rack the slide.

While I was in there I sprayed out the extractor with BreakFree CLP and got behind it with a soft brush the best I could. It will be a couple of days before I can go test it out again.

The extractor on the 59 feels much firmer than on the 39-2 when I push it in towards the slide. if this doesn't fix it, I will order an extractor/spring/pin.

2 new magazines were my first purchase for the gun as soon as I realized it had problems, so I'm pretty sure that's not the issue(but it got me up to 9 rounds rather than 8, as a bonus)

The recoil spring came with a new firing pin spring. I don't think it could hurt to go ahead and put it in, but I don't know how and couldn't find it with the search function. Is it something I should take to the 'smith to have done, or is it easy?
 
First item: carb cleaner won't hurt bluing. It's basically acetone and petroleum spirits.

Removing the firing pin isn't all that hard, but there's a few itty-bitty pieces involved. Since the extractor is a gunsmith fit item (they should use factory gauges) it'd be easier to get them to do the firing pin spring change.

Should you be feeling lucky, unload and field strip the weapon, removing recoil spring and barrel. With the slide upside down on a bench, depress the firing pin with a thin punch so that it clears the body of the safety. Holding the firing pin in this position, work the safety (may have to rotate it slightly) out of the slide. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE DETENT BALL AND SPRING AS THE SAFETY COMES CLEAR! Obviously, you're going to have to pull the punch out at some point, the safety body/barrel will keep the firing pin in the correct position to allow removal. Be careful you don't launch the firing pin when the safety comes completely out of the slide. Reverse for installation.
 
Thanks W-
I did in fact feel lucky, so I went ahead and replaced the firing pin spring without too much incident.
I appreciate the help-

Hopefully I won't have to replace any more parts; wish me luck.

I'm itching to go test it out!
 
I made some time to go test it out today, and it's still not ejecting the cartridge every time.
S&W tells me I need to ship it in for a new extractor, so it looks like that's what I'll need to do at this point.

thanks for your help guys-
 
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