S&w no 1 1/2 .32s&w mainspring screw

[chuck303]

I have an old s&w 1 1/2 32s&w.

All is completely solid lockup timing etc. I noticed the firing pin will not protrude and make it to a primer. Seems that the hammer won't fall all the way.

I noticed the mainspring tensioner screw is all the way in. Is there too much tension on the spring possibly? The screw is frozen in place and it will not budge whatsoever.

If I hold down the trigger and push the hammer forwards it will seat all the way.

I will post a picture of my thumb pushing the hammer forwards and one with the hammer not down fully.

 

[gmborkovic]

Pls. show a pic of the recoil shield with the pin protruding.

 

[chuck303]

Will do. The pin will protrude past the recoil shield if I push the hammer forward with the trigger depressed. Otherwise it won't make it,it would never fire a round ....

 

[chuck303]

So I decided to take the side plate off. With the hammer all the way forward I noticed that the two prongs at the end of the main spring are no longer in contact with anything the hammer almost comes off of it. Wondering if there's too much tension on the spring

 

[chuck303]

Here is a photo under the hood.

Hammer resting and seated fully with firing pin protruding. - notice how the mainspring lost complete contact with hammer down, hammer won't fall. I have to push it into position.

Photo in number 2 shows hammer rearwards at full cock position.


Action is solid. Lockup and timing perfect.

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

You have a S&W .32 CF SA and most of these have what is called a "reboun-
ding hammer." The hammer will rebound a short distance after firing the
cartridge. When the trigger is released, it blocks the forward travel of the
hammer. This is the built in safety these were made with and your revolver
is working normally.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[chuck303]

Hey Webb,

You just made my night .
I never thought but if I put my finger over the recoil shield where the firing pin comes out and pull the trigger I can feel it. How strange I didn't think to think of that.

 

[cgt4570]

Your revolver is probably fine. I have several of its brothers, and I've shot them all. The mainspring not fully engaging the hammer stirrup would be a sign of not enough hammer spring tension, NOT too much. The very early ones (I have one) had a cam screw under the grips to adjust mainspring tension. The majority have a standard, front of grip frame strain screw like the ones that exist today. It's possible that someone shortened the end of the screw in an attempt to get a lighter trigger pull. Never a good idea. The screw wasn't meant to be adjustable. It was meant to be screwed in all the way. If it turns out that your strain screw has been shortened, you can just put a shim between the tip of the screw and the mainspring to make up the difference.
Good luck!

 

[chuck303]

I will look this over and give it a try

 

[mmaher94087]

I agree with the above posts, not that anyone needed it. Nothing wrong with your revolver. This was Smith & Wesson's first adventure into the rebounding hammer ca. 1878.

 

[chuck303]

Trying to think of something I can use for a shim.
This one is in the 31,000 range. I will try to research a possible date of manufacture. It doesn't look like it was used much

 

[mmaher94087]

Forget the shim. I bet the strain screw is unmolested judging from your comment about how tight it is. It probably hasn't moved in 140 years. New screws are available.

 

[chuck303]

Have to soak the end of grip in a penetrating oil I suppose. It's buggered up and will not move whatsoever. Very very irritating

 

[mmaher94087]

I'm presently working on one that had a stubborn strain screw. After soaking it in Ed's Red for three days, I clamped it in a vise with padded jaws. I was able to remove it by using pliers for leverage on the handle of the hollow-ground screwdriver while leaning my body weight against the driver.

 

[chuck303]

Holy cow

 

[Colorado68]

Have you tried shooting it yet... or popping off a few empty cases with a new primer?

 

[chuck303]

No. I have too many projects going. Good idea probably try it sooner or later

 

[mmaher94087]

Another comment: a heat gun may help loosen the bond between the screw and the frame. Heat then cool with the penetrating oil a few times. Try turning the screw both ways.

 

[mmaher94087]

Since I was cleaning parts for the .32 SA, Top-Break I'm working on, I took the measurements of my strain screw for comparison to yours. The screw has a burr on the screwdriver slot but within a few thousandths the screw is .406".

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Mike, how much heat do you apply? Just curious.

Has anyone tried Mouse Milk? I've read good things
about it.

Cheers!
Webb