I recently picked up a nice S&W model 34, cleaned it and went to the range today. After about 30 rounds I had some trouble pulling back the hammer. It felt like something was getting caught; preventing the cylinder from turning. I loaded up 6 rounds, shot 4 and again the gun tightened up. I discarded the 4 spent rounds, leaving the 2 unfired in the cylinder. The revolver cycled just fine. My theory here is that the brass is expanding ever so much that it's hitting the hand (guess), thus preventing the gun from functioning properly. I was shooting CCI mini-mags. Maybe (possible) that these rounds are too hot for this gun and i should try other ammo? I am obviously not a gunsmith, so any ideas, thoughts would be appreciated. I can always send it back to S&W but thought the experts here might help trouble shoot this before taking that step. Thanks in advance for any assistance. I'll be back on-line Sunday to check this thread. Great weekend all. Brian
S&W pre-model 34 help
- Thread starter brianfede
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Congrats, nice find!
I shoot Mini Mags in mine all the time w/o problems so although they may exacerbate the problem in your gun, they're not the problem.
So some investigation/trouble shooting and forensics is the place to start:
The problem like you describe is usually from case heads rubbing on the recoil shield or front cyl face rubbing on the barrel, or both.
The first thing I suspect is the case rim recesses in the back end of the chambers, although they look clean, may have crud compacted in them which is a mixture bullet lube and powder fouling, so the case heads won't seat flush. With a small screwdriver or dental pick you can determine this. Check for the case heads seating flush to the rear cyl face with a straight edge.
If that's the case, the case heads will have fine scratch marks from rubbing on the recoil shield. If there's just one large scratch, look for a burr on the edge of the firing pin hole in the firing pin bushing mounted in the recoil shield. If there's a burr that must be stoned smooth.
Next check for rub marks in the powder fouling on the front face of the cyl. The cyl may have a barrel/cyl gap that's too tight once the cyl heats up from firing due to lead build up or cyl end play, etc.
Let us know what you find.
I shoot Mini Mags in mine all the time w/o problems so although they may exacerbate the problem in your gun, they're not the problem.
So some investigation/trouble shooting and forensics is the place to start:
The problem like you describe is usually from case heads rubbing on the recoil shield or front cyl face rubbing on the barrel, or both.
The first thing I suspect is the case rim recesses in the back end of the chambers, although they look clean, may have crud compacted in them which is a mixture bullet lube and powder fouling, so the case heads won't seat flush. With a small screwdriver or dental pick you can determine this. Check for the case heads seating flush to the rear cyl face with a straight edge.
If that's the case, the case heads will have fine scratch marks from rubbing on the recoil shield. If there's just one large scratch, look for a burr on the edge of the firing pin hole in the firing pin bushing mounted in the recoil shield. If there's a burr that must be stoned smooth.
Next check for rub marks in the powder fouling on the front face of the cyl. The cyl may have a barrel/cyl gap that's too tight once the cyl heats up from firing due to lead build up or cyl end play, etc.
Let us know what you find.
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I thought I would post an update. I am still a newbie when it comes to the mechanics of revolvers so I hope this post can help someone who is trying to trouble shoot the same issue I had with my pre-model 34. I took my model 27 to the range last weekend and noticed how easy the cylinder rotates vs my Model 34. With the cylinder opened in the loading position the rotation was a bit sticky. I decided to disassemble the gun and realized there was a tacky oil like substance that was on part of the crane that sits inside the cylinder. A simple cleaning of this part did the trick. I feel pretty stupid it took me this long to sort a resolution. Anyway, she shoots great now, no issues and I am finally over my frustration and learned something in the process.
Jim, all excellent suggestions...and I would add that there may be fouling under the extractor star which may set it back just a fraction, raising the case heads and further binding the cylinder rotation....a tooth brush and a little solvent used while pushing the extractor star open would clean this area. This is a routine part of my normal hand ejector cleaning regimen.
Best Regards, Les
I'm glad your problem was found quickly and it wasn't anything serious. Another thing to watch is the individual chambers in the cylinder. Firing can build up a ring in the cylinder and if not cleaned out (with a brush and solvent) can make cartridges difficult to seat and leave them a little too high in the chamber causing the same problem you experienced. I clean the chambers after evert range session as part of my normal cleaning.
Appreciate the input. Now that I understand these revolvers a bit more ( after disassembly) I see there is a bit more to cleaning them than I originally thought. I have put a decent amount of rounds thru my 13, 17, 19, 27, 42, 48 and 586, it was just a matter of time before I had some type of function issues. Glad so far its just my lack of cleaning skills.
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