S&W Revolvers Sticky Cylinder Opening

[OldCop876]

Hello all. I have two older S&W revolvers that have the same problem and I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. One is a Model 19-3, and the other is a Model 49 Bodyguard. Both of them seem to be more difficult to open than my other S&W revolvers. Both revolvers are from the late 70's to early 80's. If I push the thumblatch forward really firmly, I can open both revolvers, but it is much harder than it should be.

I have thoroughly cleaned both revolvers to include disassembly and cleaning of the ejector rod assembly, and tightened both appropriately but the problem still persists. If I push the end of the ejectoor rod at the extractor star, it moves freely under firm spring pressure. Any thoughts on where I should go next? Replace the bolts perhaps? I could see where if that part is worn and no longer long enough where it might cause this problem.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Vtgw938]

For me the rod end usually needs a slight trimming to allow the center pin to push the locking bolt clear. If the rod isn't tighten firmly or the assembly is dirty this can also cause the problem.

 

[326MOD10]

Sounds to me like the ejector rod could be loose.

If you check the search here for tightening the ejector rod you should find plenty of instructions.

You can also find instructions on YouTube.

I bought a tool to tighten mine up from Midway. Seemed to be the easiest way for me.

If you use any of the methods to tighten the rod make sure you put spent shell casings in the cylinder holes to avoid any damage.

A loose rod usually causes the cylinder to start to bind as it is longer than the groove cut for it.

There is also a chance the ejector rod could be bent but I would try to tighten first.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Maybe there is dried up oil in the bolt channel. I would remove the sideplate and all the parts and give everything a good solvent cleaning.

 

[sjmjax]

Had similar issues with my 610. Might review that thread. Went thru a meticulous process of checking all the usual culprits.

In my case the problem was small machining burrs left on the yoke. Wasn’t allowing the yoke to quite close fully flush. That caused the center pin to bind. Removing the burrs restored normal function.

I have a lot of S&W revolvers. I’ve noticed that many earlier stainless firearms have signs of poor machine work. Small burrs not completely removed, rough machined surfaces (noticed particularly on complex surfaces internally and on the yoke) and poorly formed screw threads. I think it took S&W awhile to revise there machining practices to accommodate stainless characteristics and tool wear.

 

[ken158]

They “just” don't get like that sitting in a drawer or safe… It takes a lot of use to wear down parts. As noted, first check extractor rod to be sure it is tight, clean the bolt channel and locking bolt, examine for anything that may be causing a rub or interference.

 

[WR Moore]

Per post #2, press the center pin flush with the ratchet and make sure it's at least level with the end of the extractor rod if not a smidgen (0.005 in) proud of the rod. Also, check the locking bolt (itty bitty piece in the barrel underlug) to make sure it moves freely, doesn't hang up on the end of the extractor rod. There should be a tiny flat at the end to bridge the internal taper at the end of the extractor rod.

Next, look at the breech face/recoil shield. With the thumb piece pressed forward, the end of the bolt should be at least level with the breech face. If not, the leg of the bolt needs filed to provide more travel of the bolt.

If you've got access to a yoke alignment gauge, you might check yoke alignment too.

 

[sctman800]

Had similar problem with my S&W625-8 JM model. It is my favorite handgun to shoot and use it for IDPA so it has thousands of rounds through it. I found if I used something to push in on the pin sticking out of the ejector star it would stick until I put a fair amount of pressure on it. It would then work smoothly. Disassembled and found a burr, stoned it off and all is good. Jim.

 

[steelslaver]

Loose rod, gunk in the barrel under lug, gunk in the rod/center pin. Plus, with cylinder out of gun and you press the rear down on a flat surface the center pin should come just past the tip of the rod.

Your center pin and rod assembly can be to long.

All assembled, and rod tight, you should have some room between tip of rod and barrel lug housing. With cylinder out press down on tip of lug tooth. How much of it sticks out of housing. You need more clearance than that between tip and lug housing. If the tooth bottoms out before the thumb piece has the tip of the bolt flush with face of recoil shield your going to have a problem. File down rod and center pin to get some slack. This situation also increases the amount of pressure needed for final close up of cylinder

 

[toad67]

Try removing the thumb latch, this is an easy way to make sure that the bolt is able to travel fully in the frame slot.

 

[WR Moore]

Atta boy to toad67. I've recontoured more than one thumb piece tenon.

 

[max503]

Next, look at the breech face/recoil shield. With the thumb piece pressed forward, the end of the bolt should be at least level with the breech face. If not, the leg of the bolt needs filed to provide more travel of the bolt.

This. The bolt on my 638 was a few thousandths below the recoil shield. I lightly filed the shoulder of the bolt piece, right at the base of the bolt. (See arrow.) That helped. It didn't take much.

 

[scruffy]

I have a 19-4 that took more effort than it should have to open. First I made sure everything was tight and clean and the bolt moved to the right position the way it should. Then I carefully and lightly filed the collar of the extractor rod. Didn't take much and the cylinder opens just fine now. I was able to see the collar not clearing the front latching bolt enough to cause the problem. Easy fix for me..

 

[steelslaver]

Collar?? Do you mean the end of the ejector rod. Taking it down just enough so the end of the center pin clears it when the thumb piece is all the way forward so that the lug on barrel is press out enopugh to clesaar and release the rod.