S&W Spring job questions.

[Steve St.]

I am thinking about doing a "spring job" on a 686 and would like to hear some thoughts from others that have tried this. What else would you recommend other than just changing springs.

I have done spring jobs and polished trigger parts on several Rugers with good results and am hoping I can have the same success with my S&W.

Thank you.
Steve

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Polishing the rebound slide is a good idea. Some people, myself included, think it's a good idea to clean the internals and relube, perhaps with a superior lube. Many people, myself included, feel that changing springs from factory is a poor choice. It usually results in slower and less reliable reset, and may even result in less reliable ignition. However, it is not difficult (or cheap) to test for reliable ignition, and the results of testing for reliable reset will vary from person to person, usually varying with factors not entirely under the conscious control of the shooter. I happen to be one of the folks who needs all the trigger return force that the factory supplies. Others do not.

IMO, the factory knows more about springs than most of us.

 

[H Richard]

I would recommend you get and view Jerry Miculek's video on "Trigger Job". It gets into just how much "stoning" and where to stone is recommended. Jerry himself doesn't change the rebound spring as he wants the "fastest" possible reset, not the lightest. Most people have found that a 14 lb rebound slide spring and keeping a full power main spring (after a light stoning), help reduce trigger pull.

Putting several thousand rounds through your gun in practice will also smooth up the action and improve your shooting.

 

[Dieseltech56]

I put a 14lb rebound spring in my 686-6 since I mostly shoot single action at silhouettes with it. I did not mess with the main spring. I couldn't be happier honestly. It has a fantastic trigger pull now.

 

[dr. mordo]

I've changed to Wilson springs in a M29 and a M10, and in both cases the gun has function flawlessly and the trigger was much improved. In the M10, I ended using the lightest trigger return spring 12#, but in the M29 that was too light and I moved up to the 13#.

That said, I certainly did test my carry ammo after the swap since both guns are CCWs.

I don't polish the internals. I've found that several hundred dry-fires does the job fine for me.

 

[chief38]

I am thinking about doing a "spring job" on a 686 and would like to hear some thoughts from others that have tried this. What else would you recommend other than just changing springs.

I have done spring jobs and polished trigger parts on several Rugers with good results and am hoping I can have the same success with my S&W.

Thank you.
Steve

Steve,

the older M686's are usually fairly smooth from the start and only need minor adjustments. I use a lighter Rebound Slide Spring (13 or 14 lbs) and I usually shorten a SPARE Strain Screw and replace the Factory one. This will improve trigger pull weight but must be done so you still maintain 100% reliability. DO NOT shorten the original Strain Screw - always do this with a replacement and you do NOT need to remove much, a little goes a long way! You can easily restore it back to Factory and will always have the original if the gun is sold. Replacement Strain Screws are available from parts sellers and are only a few bucks - go slowly and just do a little at a time. Get a few and if you go to far you have another. NEVER NEVER just loosen a Factory Strain Screw. They must always be fully tightened when done. Loose Strain Screws can back out and cause FTF.

Go through the inside after disassembly, remove any burrs, and my recommendation is not to remove any metal but just remove burrs with an extra fine Arkansas Stone. DO NOT TOUCH the Sear engagement surfaces!!! You will ruin them as they are extremely sensitive and precisely fit. Before reassembly, LIGHTLY lubricate friction points and Bosses (pins the trigger and hammer rotate on). I'd recommend nothing heavier than Rig#2 Oil or Rem Oil for the inside of a S&W Revolver.

Last but NOT least, ONLY open up the Revolver if you are familiar with a S&W Revolver and know what you are doing! If you don't LEARN first (not after you screw it up) or bring it to a Pro.

Happy shooting and good luck with your new 686!

 

[old&slow]

If you can work on a Ruger ,, then a S&W will be a piece if cake.
Most / all of my revolver shooting is double action. I like to use 600 to 1000 wet /dry sandpaper on a piece of flat tool steel to polish the rebound block and knock off the sharp corners. Smooth any burrs off bearing surfaces.
I usually use a 14# rebound block return spring. Wolff makes two main springs, regular & magnum. I have used both depending if it's a competition or a serious gun.
I never shorten the strain screw or mess with the single action sear engagement , never.