S&W trigger question

GM4spd

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Got a 10 shot K frame 22. Is there a WIDE trigger shoe that will fit the .3" smooth trigger that is presently on there? Thanks for any help,the trigger shoe numbers are confusing as I'm looking at them.
 
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I seriously doubt it but you should google wide trigger shoes.

A S&W factory wider trigger would be much better; either the .400" (grooved or smooth) or .500" (grooved only, but grooves can easily be ground off). Found here in this forum's classified, Ebay, Gunparts Dist., etc.

K, l and N frames triggers interchange by the way.
 
I have found over the last 40 years that the .500 wide target trigger only works for me well in Single Action. I do have one .500 target trigger on a 686, that I had ground the serrations off and contoured the face and it does work well in double action. It is perfectly smooth and polished.
 
I have a gun with a shoe. I have a gun with the target trigger. I prefer the trigger, hands down. Works better, fits better and looks better. I keep the shoe on because it was on there when I bought it as a police turn in. JMO.
 
Thanks for the help. I have a couple of .500" wide grooved TTS
but they won't fit my friends newer revolver.
 
We need more specificity to understand the situation:


What's the dash # on your gun; the 17-8 or the 17-8 Heritage Series that has the new frame design (they should have been marked 17-9)??

What does your friend's gun have to do with yours?

Same dash # as your gun or not?

Does either yours or your friend's gun have the MIM parts?

In what way doesn't the wide triggers "fit" your friends gun?
 
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His revolver is a 617-2. Looks like stainless but the cylinder feels like it's made of aluminum. My early wide triggers do not have a
stirrup that seperated like his does(2 piece). Also on his stainless the trigger and hammer are case hardened,I don't get that:confused:
 
The 617-2 introduced the 10 shot alloy (aluminum) cylinder in this stainless gun in 1996, so you're correct. Your Model 17-8 (marked in the yoke with cyl opened) with 10 shot cyl is also an alloy cyl, but bluish/black in color.

Also earlier stainless guns did have color case hardened hammers and triggers.

I don't know what you mean by a "...stirrup that separated like his does (2 piece)".


Here are pictures of the only two types of triggers (the 2nd picture shows the newer trigger which uses the floating cyl hand used), but neither trigger have a "stirrup":

1855770.jpg


1549630.jpg


Which do your wide triggers look like and which does the trigger in your gun look like?

If your wide triggers are like photo #1 and your gun has a trigger like photo #2, you just need to change to a non-floating hand for them to work. Part # 1492240 shown here:

Smith & Wesson 17-6 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Numrich Gun Parts

Scroll down and click on item 72.
 
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FWIW, I attempted to replace the MIM trigger in my Model 69 with an older style trigger and found that the trigger pivot pin in the 69 is a larger diameter, old trigger wouldn't fit. Not sure if this would be the case for all newer S&W revolvers.
 
That's a good point, MIM (Metal Injection Molding) triggers and hammers (instead of forged) were introduced 1997-98. The 17-8 was introduced in 1996 and discontinued by 1999. And I find no references to the Model 17-8 ever having MIM parts.

GM4spd,

To verify: is your gun's trigger hollow on the backside?? If not, it doesn't have an MIM trigger and you're good to go.

If it were hollow/MIM your wide trigger stud mounting hole would have to be enlarged for the larger frame pivot stud.
 
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