School Me for My Project 64 (Please)

[alienbogey]

Okay, I finally clicked on the button and bought this Model 64-2 (edited to change to photo of my son shooting it at a plate match):

I have spent hours perusing posts and they're all starting to run together in my head. Can folks point me to posts or links or products so that I can do the following to the 64:

• Polish the stainless until it hurts to look at

• Polish the internals to reduce and smooth the trigger WITHOUT doing anything requiring undo expertise (which I don't have) or making anything unsafe

• Install spring kit - I've often seen folks recommend that - please be specific as to which kit

• Grips - not sure which, and they'll be the final step.

• Anything else I can or should do?

I have a set of Brownell's gunsmithing screwdrivers and basic shop tools, but I have no gunsmithing experience other than replacing a few parts and dropping a trigger kit into a Ruger Mark II.

I've never had a Smith before, which is one reason I picked it for my project gun.

Thanks.

 

[scooter123]

I'd recomend that the first thing you purchase be the Kuhnhausen S&W Shop Manual. It will provide some excellent guidance on what to do for an action tuning, and it's illustrated.

Second, purchase a 14 lbs. rebound spring. I've found that this particular spring provides the best balance between SA trigger pull and rapid trigger return in double action shooting.

Ideally you'll also want a good trigger pull gage. I like the Lyman Digital because it's easy to use for repeatable results. However, it's a 60 dollar expense and not actually mandatory. However, it will save lots of trips to the range to determine how light you can go with the DA pull before misfires become a problem.

As for Mainspring power, I've taken a somewhat different approach than most. What I have done is make up shims that can be fitted under the strain screw in various thicknesses. This has allowed me to experiment with reducing the mainspring power in a manner that is easy to reverse. BTW, these shims were made by drilling shim stock with a 0.147 inch diameter drill and then shaping the OD to 0.218 inch using a diamond burr in a Dremel. A bit tedious but it gives me something to do while watching the Boob Tube.

Now, as a result of my experiments I would recomend that you intitially target a 9 lbs. trigger pull in double action for your first outing. Then take the gun and shoot in in double action using an ammo that has a reputation for somewhat hard primers, in my case I use Speer Lawman as my test ammo. Without bobbing the hammer I believe that you can probably get reliable ignition with any ammo in the 8-8.5 lbs range. If you go any lighter you'll limit yourself to only shooting with Federal primers or bobbing the hammer to reduce it's mass. BTW, primer ignition is a result of Kinetic Energy and since this is a function of Mass times the Square of the Velocity, a lighter hammer moving faster will provide reliable ignition with a bit less power from the mainspring than a heavier hammer.

As for polishing, IMO the slow way is best. That being to finish up a cleaning by giving the gun a good rubdown with a high quality polishing compound. Two or three years of this will have the gun looking like it's chrome plated. However, if your in a hurry, Diamond Lapping compound on a felt wheel in a Dremel followed up with a high quality polish by hand will make fairly quick work of a full polish.

 

[tall gunner]

I just "pulled the trigger" on one today after hemming' and hawing' for a while. I was looking for another 38 to shoot and thought about a Ruger SP101 but the Smith's are just so much nicer in the trigger department that I thought I'd take a chance on this. First preowned Smith I've bought but I'm expecting good things. I love my 642, 29 Mountain Gun and 63, all bought new, but wanted to experience an older model. Probably won't do too much to it right away...maybe some polish, maybe grip replacement..be nice to have some stag grips ($$). Internals I'm thinking they'll be ok as they are. I'm just hoping this isn't the first sign of the dreaded "Smith-eye-tist disease" I've read about.

 

[MajorDude]

I second the purchase of the Kuhnhausen book first. Don't even think about trying to take the sideplate off without it or everyone will know that you did for as long as that gun lives. You need a good set of gun screwdrivers and a rebound slide spring tool from Brownells is nice to have. I would recommend not fussing with the internals of your S&W much though, shouldn't need much. I would give it a good cleaning before I did any polishing. Then you can really decide if you may be ruining a collector gun or not. I have polished a couple of stainless guns. I recommend Flitz for polishing. I have used a fine stone for removing bad divots one time. Some stainless guns came with a brushed or bead blasted finish, and if it doesn't look too bad, you might want to leave it alone. The top of the barrel is probably matted and don't try to polish that. Hose the insides out with brake cleaner (wear glasses!), allow to dry and re-oil with a decent synthetic. I have been using some spray Mobil 1 that I had around with good results. Again, Kuhnhausen has all the info in there. Don't be put off by the books price, it will more than pay for itself in the long run.

 

[MajorDude]

Oh yeah... the trigger and hammer on that 64 are flash-chromed carbon steel. Don't polish that off! Good luck and have fun!

 

[BobR1]

I see the CDC is stamped in. Way better looking than the engraver that some have used.

GRIPS:
Midway Smith & Wesson Factory Grips
165-920 Round Butt K Frame Checkered Rosewood.
273-382 Finger Groove Cocobolo
816-944 Finger Groove Rosewood

SPRING KIT:
Midway
222-267 Wolf Spring Kit w/Type 2 Reduced Power Ribbed Main Spring & 13, 14, and 15 pound rebound springs.

365-183 Wilson Combat 8 Pound Hammer Spring and 12, 13, and 14 pound rebound springs.

Both Kits work pretty well. I used the Wilson Combat on the last one I did on a 625-3. With the kit you get 3 different rebound springs. Handy for changing spring weights if you go to light.
I put the Wolf kit in my 64-3

If you want to just go with a reduced power rebound spring, send me an e-mail with your address. I can mail you one.


Bob

 

[H Richard]

If you intend to use this revolver for self defense, I recommend you do not replace the mainspring. Replacing the rebound slide spring with a 13 or 14 lb spring will lower the DA trigger pull quite a bit.

 

[CelticSire]

I'd recommend a serious cleaning before any type of actual work. Detail strip it, clean it, lube it, then fire it. You may not need any action work at all. Also, the type of action jb to do depends on the gun's purpose - I would assume since it's a snub .38, it will most likely be used for concealed carry, self defense, nightstand gun, etc. That will determine how you want your action to be. Definitely purchase the Kuhnhausen manual, Midway has them for $24.95, well worth the investment.

 

[AKsRule]

Get a can of this and clean the internal parts as well as the outside.

Polish the outside with a green pad to a nice matte finish.

Then throw on some nice wood grips and go shoot it.



.

 

[tall gunner]

I finally received my CDC 64-4 yesterday (it went from tenn to Tex to Missouri) and although the frame is banged up and EVERY screw is buggered it was clean as a whistle inside and out including the cylinder face. Maybe they ran it though an ultrasonic bath but there wasn't a speck of anything anywhere. I lightly lubed the internals and put it back together. Now to see how it shoots. I don't think I'll be able to use the grips unless I can find a Tyler t-grip adapter. Maybe some ahrends.

 

[alienbogey]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm juggling between Midway and Brownell's because each place has various things on backorder.

I'm leaning towards this spring kit

BROWNELLS : SWK/L/N-201 PRO-SPRING KIT FOR S&W K,L,N FRAME REVOLVER - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

and this rebound spring tool

BROWNELLS : S&W REBOUND SLIDE SPRING TOOL - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

both at Brownell's because they're in stock.

I ordered the Gerry Miculek S&W Revolver tuning DVD rather than the Kuhnhausen book because I don't know right now how much I'll get into this. I can always add the book later.

I decided to get the Lyman digital trigger pull gauge, but had a bugger of a time finding it in stock at a decent price. It's ordered, though.

I can't resist posting another picture of it:

Unlike Tall Gunner's mine has no buggered screws, but it does have some powder discoloration from being fired, and also a few nicks in the metal, such as along the sharp edge of the trigger guard (just visible in the photo), that I'm unsure what to do about. Just file a chamfer or round over to blend the metal?

 

[Maximumbob54]

GRIPS:

Ahrends - Ahrends Grips : Home

These are some of the most beautiful and yet cost effective stocks I have ever seen. I own two of them so far. I have yet to indulge in the $20 upgrade to have tung oil applied to a set of stocks. I keep eyeing some mayple stocks and an oil finish would really make them glow. That may be very soon. Right up there with Ahrends is Altamont.

Altamont - Altamont - Pistol Grips - Altamont - Pistol Grips

They make some amazing looking grips from more modern material like the better looking laminate woods to bonded ivory. I have three sets of stocks from Altamont and they are all works of art. They need to do a better job of advertizing the fact that they make boot grips for the K/L frame guns that look like their J frame grips. Their website isn't very informative of that fact. Also if they don't list a material and design combo and what you want isn't too nuts they will make it for you. I'm trying to decide on a checkered laminate walnut stock or a checkered bonded ivory stock to go on my Python soon. The walnut is listed but a phone call assured me the same thing in bonded ivory is no problem to make.

 

[tall gunner]

Trying to order my replacement screws onMidwayUSA and like Alienbogy said everything is on backorder. I think since you did all the work looking up part numbers from brownells I'll order those spring kits from there. I did shoot it today and it shot very well with 158gr SWC at 7 yd. I didn't like the magna grips at all....kept pounding my thumb...so I replaced them with Houge Bantam which feel great. Maybe get a set of Altamonts later. I have some of those on my 63 and they are very nice. I have an issue with my ejector rod being scratchy feeling but it functions. I want to take it apart to see what's scraping but can't get it apart. I'll start a new thread about that though. all told I'm very happy with this gun and am going to enjoy it. Also I received my brand new copy of SCSW from Amazon today. $29 shipped. Smith &Wesson wanted $49 with shipping and tax.
Good shooting.